Need an access panel

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Wild Will

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Hi All, haven't been around much lately. Did a search and couldn't find anything that matched.

My trouble turned into a failed fuel pump in my '95 EB. I have some family who will help me replace the pump but, I'd like to make it easy for the next time I have to do this. Does any manufacturer produce an aftermarket panel that can be placed in the floor board of the cargo area of my Bronco to make fuel pump replacement less taxing?

Thanks for any advice!

 
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miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo,

Thanks Seabronc!

Here it is by OUR SPONSOR AT DA ZONE;Patch Panel, 48in. x 16in. for 80-96 Bronco & F Series; $35.00 as of FEB 2011 Source: by Jeff's Bronco Graveyard

STEFLOORPIECE.JPG


and some more Cut-out Panel Fabrication LINKS in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=616

including this by Bill C

Please keep in mind that this was all done to a 1992 Bronco

1: If you decide to put in a cheap fuel pump, you are probably going to have to replace it within a year. Either spend the extra money on a really good one or, cut an access door in the bed.

2: Get the right tools for the job. Fuel line removal tools are very cheap and will save you hours of aggravation

3: If you decide to cut an access door, see if you can borrow a 110V angle grinder or an air operated one (if you have access).

I used my 18V ryobi and while it worked fine with the cutoff wheel, I have three batteries and, starting at full charge on all three, they all had to go back on the charger twice before I was finished cutting.

4: Speaking of cutting.. .I got the steps (measurements and stuff) from Steve83 site on SuperMotors site. It looked like he used a sawsall but he also has a body lift. I have the stock lift so I was scared to go too deep. I was right. the vent line is about 1 inch (if that) from the bottom of the bed. I didn't hit it but, that would have sucked.

5: Safety first. I kept a garden hose stuffed up on the top of the tank with it on "mist" to keep everything wet. I don't know if it helped or not but, no fires and there were LOTS of sparks. Eye protection goes without saying...

6: Taking the retaining ring off is easy.

Putting it back on? Not so much. I bent the "starter" tabs at just a little bit of a downward angle with needle nose plyers and it made putting it back on quite easy.

7: I do not have a patch panel yet so, I cut three sides of the access panel and then just "scored" the 4th side (drivers side) so I could open it up like a door. It is currently closed and duct tape in on the edges until I can get a proper cover for it.

8: Also, if you read Steve83's writeup, he mentioned that the edges are sharp. let me clairify.

YOU WILL GET CUT!!!!!!! Either wear gloves or file down the edges BEFORE screwing with the pump itself.

More;

Unlock Ring

A non-sparking drift is preferred, but with some water still on the tank, the chance of fire is low.

Cleaning also makes it much easier to turn the ring.

Carefully tap each of the ring's drive tabs CCW working around the ring frequently.

The pump mounting plate rests on the big rubber O-ring, which rests on the tank lip. The lock ring is between the pump plate & the tabs, which are welded to the tank. So the O-ring is the "spring" that holds the ring tight up against the tabs. If the ring won't rotate due to dirt &/or rust, use a hammer & drift to knock the ring & plate straight down so the rust & grit are released from the tabs & plate, but NOT enough to bend anything. Just make it vibrate. Wet the ring & tabs with motor oil to work in & rinse some of the grit out. Once all the tabs have "broken" free, the ring should rotate, using a hammer & drift. Use a shallower angle for more rotation (torque), or a steeper angle to release the ring from the tabs.

Don't do ANY of this until you have a replacement O-ring in-hand.

Once the lock ring is removed, break the O-ring seal & lift the FDM from the tank. The reservoir will spill, and the pickup screen will spray fuel as it comes out. The O-ring should never be re-used.

fdm.jpg

FDM & Fuel Pressure

IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The FDM connector shown is for '94-96; '90-93 use the older connector that mounts directly to the FDM plate.

For the 5.0L, 5.8L and 7.5L EFI engines, the in-tank mounted high pressure fuel pump is capable of supplying 105 liters (27.7 gallons) of fuel per hour at a working pressure of 270.0 kPa (39 psi). For the 4.9L EFI engine, the pump can supply 90 liters (23.7 gallons) per hour at 380 kPa (55 psi). The pump has an internal pressure relief valve to provide overpressure protection in the event the fuel flow becomes restricted. Overpressure is restricted to 850 kPa (123 psi).

The 4.9L will run fine with the same pressure as the V8s.

Test pressure at the fuel rail with a gauge.

Read (& see more) ...more @ http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/2742/12737

============

OUR SPONSOR HERE at DA ZONE, Jeff's Bronco Graveyard has the Pump/Sending Unit, Lock Ring & Seal (O Ring), Sending Unit Repair Plug

etc

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/c-95-bronco-fuel-systems.html

I prefer Ford Parts esp for this, quite $$$ though, but... I'm sure you can shop around if you need to save some $...

Fuel Level Sender Info @ http://www.broncolinks.com/admin/admineditlink.php?index=921

Such as:

Float Part Number; Motorcraft COAZ-9202-B

Source: by Chris340

Sender Gasket, Motorcraft Part Number COAF-9276-A; & Plastic Meshed Filter Screen Motorcraft Part Number D1AZ-9A011-A

Source: by miesk5

Sender pic in 87-96 Broncos; "...Apparently, this fits all '87-96 Broncos & most '87-97 F-series. List is ~$80 tax from Ford; I paid ~$55 total from Parts Plus...Motorcraft pn PS22"

fuellevelsender.jpg

 

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