need a new carb

[JLasvegas]

Im at wits end with my motorcraft 2 barrel carb

whats a direct replacement that i can run and still keep all my emissions equipment working

2bbl only

 

[Justshootme84]

Check out Miesk5's Homepage (link in the Tech Articles forum), but I believe it's a MotorCraft #2150. If you hang on a bit, I'll try to find the info, JSM84

http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/450850

 

[JLasvegas]

thank you JSM

im not sure of my exact model I cant seem to fin any other numbers except E2AE 9E957-AB

 

[BB33's]

Do you want stock? You could go with a holley 2 barrel or even an Edelbrock and still be alright. You will probably get some more oomph too! NOTE: Oomph is not a technical term.

 

[illinoisbronco]

Do you want stock? You could go with a holley 2 barrel or even an Edelbrock and still be alright. You will probably get some more oomph too! NOTE: Oomph is not a technical term.

if chevy and ford holleys are compatable i can get you a 4bbl

 

[JLasvegas]

well after crunching some numbers Im going to scrap the 2 bbl and intake and just purchased an Edelbrock 650 cfm 4 barrel and intake I believe performer series is that model, and when im at it, might as well ditch the stock valve covers and add some shine there as well.

I found that my hard start issue is directly related to a weak fuel pump so that got changed and a full tune up is in order.

will post some pictures of before and after, should be a huge difference without all of the damn vacuum lines that were part of the emissions system that went to the stock carb

I should still be good for smog as im keeping the cat, smog pump and egr valve in tact

 

[Seabronc]

well after crunching some numbers Im going to scrap the 2 bbl and intake and just purchased an Edelbrock 650 cfm 4 barrel and intake I believe performer series is that model, and when im at it, might as well ditch the stock valve covers and add some shine there as well. I found that my hard start issue is directly related to a weak fuel pump so that got changed and a full tune up is in order.

will post some pictures of before and after, should be a huge difference without all of the damn vacuum lines that were part of the emissions system that went to the stock carb

I should still be good for smog as im keeping the cat, smog pump and egr valve in tact

Just out of curiosety, if you intend on leaving those functions active, just what vacuum lines are you proposing to take out? Those functions require vacuum control, they are the emissions system. The other vacuum lines control functions like cold weather start, vacuum advance, cold weather intake air modulation, fuel tank pressure equalization and fume control. The point being that not all vacuum lines have to do with emiossions. Also to go from 2BBL to 4BBL you need a different EGR spacer. Pderformer makes two versions of the intake manafold, one without EGR ports and one with EGR ports.

Good luck,

>-

 

[JLasvegas]

the multiple vaccum lines and wiring that is part of the emissions system that will be removed are the sensors that are mounted on the valve covers, there are 3 per side and each one has vaccum lines and wires coming off it, you can see them in post 3, the intake manifold from edelbrock does have an egr port so I should be good to go there

 

[BB33's]

I think you're going in the right direction with the intake and carb. Edelbrock makes excellent products and I rn the performer set up on my'85 F350 and got way etter throttle response and the Edelbrock carb was way easier to tune than the stock Holley/Motorcraft. Post pictures

 

[Seabronc]

the multiple vaccum lines and wiring that is part of the emissions system that will be removed are the sensors that are mounted on the valve covers, there are 3 per side and each one has vaccum lines and wires coming off it, you can see them in post 3, the intake manifold from edelbrock does have an egr port so I should be good to go there

I hate to tell you this, but those sensors are not sensors. They are vacuum control relays and are involved with the functions you say you are keeping. If you remove them, you might as well remove the functions you say you want to keep.

Good luck,

>-

 

[JLasvegas]

i figure they are part of the emissions system, but I was told by a smog tech all you need is a smog pump, egr and gas cap and a catalytic converter to pass the visual inspection

I dont think it will be necessary to run an electronic controlled system such as the ECM that is on this bronco

 

[Seabronc]

i figure they are part of the emissions system, but I was told by a smog tech all you need is a smog pump, egr and gas cap and a catalytic converter to pass the visual inspection
I dont think it will be necessary to run an electronic controlled system such as the ECM that is on this bronco

That is a horse of a different color. You said that you wanted to keep the emissions stuff. That to me means you want it to work. If you are going to have the stuff for visual only and there is no check, don't you think an inspector is smart enough to notice that the controls are missing? The long and short of it is, "It's your truck". Since you live in Los Vegas, you most likely don't need cold weather stuff either.

You will still need an new EGR spacer to mount the EGR on if you go 4BBL, even if it is only for show. If you go Edelbrock, that spacer probably won't fit. The only way to tell is try it.

Any way, good luck in what ever you do.

>-

 

[JLasvegas]

wouldnt it be impossible to run anything other than the stock carb and to keep all of that crap hooked up, after all it plugs into the carb base and controls mixture

 

[JLasvegas]

are all of you guys running all of this emissions crap on your rigs?

or do you not have to test every year

 

[JLasvegas]

ok got the intake manifold and carb installed, along with some new valve covers and aircleaner all thru Edelbrock performer intake and 650cfm 4 bbl

then installed the new distributer coil and ignition module

so Im about at 1100 bucks into the top end and she runs like a brand new truck and wants to haul ass

only problem now is my tach isnt working, probably when I removed the old ignition system, but does anyone know where to connect the tach to? coil perhaps?

 

[miesk5]

yo J!

Glad it's running great!

Connect tach to Coil Negative; one Chilton diagram shows the tach wire as green/yellow - Figure 13

...but as our pal Seabronc has noted, many color codes are iffy in Chilton!

So, here is Seabronc's diagram (see 3rd from Left) It shows dark green/yellow too

 

[JLasvegas]

thanks for the fast response

man what a difference a carb, intake and new hotter ignition system makes

 

[JLasvegas]

very helpful links, man you guys are the best

 

[Seabronc]

yo J!Glad it's running great!

Connect tach to Coil Negative; one Chilton diagram shows the tach wire as green/yellow - Figure 13

...but as our pal Seabronc has noted, many color codes are iffy in Chilton!

So, here is Seabronc's diagram (see 3rd from Left) It shows dark green/yellow too

Those diagrams are only good for a stock Duraspark II ignition. I now have the MSD system installed and it required a TAC Adapter to to get the dash mounted TAC to function.

Good luck,

>-