Nasty noise on my 93 Bronco

[Michael.Banks]

I will try to explain this as clear as possible. I was replacing my distributor cap and doing a full tune up when my friend and I were having trouble with timing, we ended up resorting to rotating the engine itself via the front pulley on the crankshaft (I am not a engine savvy guy so forgive my confusion) Well needless to say sooner or later we adjusted the timing just right but now when I actually give the truck a full push on the gas pedal, and I mean a "pedal to the medal" kind of push there is a noise that is almost a scratching noise, I fear that it may be the crankshaft that is screwed up. Any ideas so if I have to take it to the shop I can tell them exactly what I think it is? Any help would be great.

 

[Krafty]

if you advance the timing too much when at open throttle the ignition will "ping" ( Pre igniting the cyclinders) the excessive pinging will cause the noise you hear along with damage to your spark plugs and your valves and pistons. the Best performance for your ignition system is right before it starts to ping, what you need to do is ****** the timing just a little bit, then try the wide open throttle again, if you are still pinging then ****** it some more and try again. once it stops pinging advance your timing just slightly to find the sweet spot right before the ping.

the adjustment is done best while the engine is running, and the distributor barely snug so that light taps or nudges will turn it but not the movement of the engine. remember turning the distributor clockwise is advancing and counterclockwise is retarding

it will only take a few minutes and it will be good as new.

 

[Michael.Banks]

Great I will give that a try, thanks!

 

[Michael.Banks]

My truck is fixed!!!!!!!!! For the most part. While adjusting the distributor cap I noticed my upper radiator hose collapsed but then it expanded! So maybe you all can give me input on that as well, also while I'm posting all of my problems my gas guage just died and reads empty all the time, and my dash lights do not work, I have even changed every fuse there is!!!! Well appreciate it.

 

[Krafty]

for the fuel gauge and gauge lights did they start at the same time or one before the other?

I would recommend double checking any fuses related to the Inst Cluster lights, then pull the instrument cluster out of the dash and check for loose or damaged connections at the plug ins or breaks in the circuit "board" on the back of the instrument cluster.

Most commonly for the fuel gauges the sending unit in the fuel tank is the culprit, but if you can follow the wiring all the way from the gauge to the tank it would be good to rule out any shorts in the circuit before having to replace your sending unit in your tank.

I don't know what would cause the rad hose to collapse like you said it did but be on the look out for any other heating system symptoms that might help shed light on the cause of that problem.

good luck.

 

[Michael.Banks]

The dash lights were prior to the gas gauge going out. I will try your ideas tomorrow, thanks!

 

[Seabronc]

From Autoupkeep.com

A: Radiator hoses commonly have a reinforcing spring inside that helps prevent radiator hoses from collapsing. If this reinforcing spring is faulty or missing, the hose may collapse when there is a vacuum in the cooling system. Another cause could be a faulty radiator cap. A radiator cap works to maintain a constant pressure in the cooling system. As the antifreeze mixture begins to cool after engine shutdown, a vacuum is created. If the pressure cap doesn't equalize this pressure, a radiator hose can collapse. The small vacuum valve in the radiator cap may not be working properly.

Ford radiator hoses don't usually have a coil spring inside them, they are made pretty stiff. If yours is soft, I'd take the suggestion above and also put a new hose on it.

Good luck,

>-

 

[miesk5]

yo,

Good fix!

On da fuel gauge issue a gauge that pegs past empty indicates a short to ground (pinched to the frame, body, or dash supports) on the Y/W wire, OR a sunk float

Connector Location in 92-96; "... Under center rear of vehicle on rear cross member..."

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Uase this info & Wiring Diagram in a 95 (see#4) (Full = 145 Ohms; Empty = 22.5 Ohms) by BIRTHDAY MAN Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forumsto troubleshoot;

Testing; "...the little resistive strip in them gets bad and causes erratic readings. Also, while you are at replacing it, check out the connector to make sure the ground is good back to the battery. Do a resistance check from the black lead to the battery (-) post. If is is more than a couple of ohms, run a new ground lead to it..."

Source: by Seabronc

eziest thing to do is to cut-out the floor pan area above pump/sender location

then you can TS the sender at conn

Cut-out Panel Fabrication for Fuel Pump/Level Sender Replacement in an 83 Source: by BD MAN Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

more Fuel Gauge stuff Links in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=921

 

[bobstrat]

for the fuel gauge:

the brass float is notorious for leaking at the seam.

i just fixed mine. if i remember correctly, when the key is on it would peg past empty, when the key is off it would change position.

fuel float