MY BRAKES GO TO FLOOR

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mspbronco

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HAVE A 88 FORD BRONCO EDDIE B ADDITION.5.8 MY BRAKES GO TO THE FLOOR BUT I CSN STOP STILL SOME FLUID A MASTER CLYNOID RING SHOULD I REPLACE MASTER CYLINOID

 

Bully Bob

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Hi msp.., welcome..!

Yep..., very likely a leak. Where there's brake fluid leaking., the paint will buckle/peal. (The fluid will wash off with water)

If it's leaking around the master cylinder, then rebuilding or replacing is in order.

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo,

WELCOME

If t6hat tip by our friend here, BB doesn't show anything.

You have the Ford Anti-Lock Brake (ABS) System; RABS II in 87-92

One of the most unnerving failures that can occur with this system is the loss of pedal when braking. The

problem may feel like a bad master cylinder, but it may not be the master cylinder. The real problem may be a bad Electro Hydraulic (EH) valve in the rear wheel antilock brake system. If a small piece of dirt or rust gets into the unit, it may prevent the dump valve inside the EH valve from closing. The dump valve will then leak fluid into the accumulator when the brakes are applied. The misrouted fluid allows the pedal to drop, and the pedal may go all the way to the floor without applying the brakes. No ABS warning light or fault code will be found either because the limited diagnostics on this system can't tell if the dump valve is fully closed or not.

Wagner Brakes recommends the following procedure

to find out if the problem is a bad master cylinder or a leaky EH valve in the RWAL system. To rule out a bad master cylinder, disconnect the rear brake line at the master cylinder and install a plug to block off the port. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal about an inch to purge any air from the outlet, then tighten the plug while the assistant holds the pedal in this position. After tightening the plug, continue to apply pressure to the pedal

to prevent damage to the primary cup in the master cylinder as the cup moved across the vent port.

If the pedal holds and no longer drops, it isn't the master cylinder that's causing the problem.

Reconnect the brake line to the master cylinder and block off the outlet port on the EH valve. Then apply pressure

to the brake pedal again to see if the pedal drops. If the pedal goes down, the EH valve is leaking fluid into the accumulator. The EH valve needs to be replaced.

It's important to note that one of the underlying

auses of EH valve failure is moisture-contaminated brake fluid.

If the fluid is more than a couple years old, it may contain a lot of moisture. GM trucks do not have a recommended service interval for brake fluid, but most experts say that flushing the brake lines every couple of years for preventative maintenance can greatly reduce the risk of internal corrosion inside the brake lines and

EH valve. But most people totally ignore their brakes until something goes wrong. So the best you can do is flush the system and replace the old fluid with new when the EH valve is replaced -- then recommend

a fluid change every two years to prevent a repeat occurrence.

Air trapped in the EH valve can be another source of trouble with the RWAL system. Some RWAL EH valves (the smaller ones) do not have a bleeder ****** which makes the uni hard to bleed if air gets into the lines. The trick here is to

loosen the brake line connections at the valve to vent air when

bleeding the brakes. Brakes can be bled in the usual way manuallyor with pressure equipment. The wheel bleeding sequence is RR, LR, RF, LF. If a pressure bleeder is used, the combination valvemust be held open.

by Larry C CarleySoftware.com via aa1car.com

RABS Self Test & Diagnosis Codes; "...The possible flashout codes are listed and explained in the Flash Codes Chart. Note that Codes 1 and 16 are not used. Flashout Codes Whenever the yellow REAR ABS light comes on during normal operation, a flashout code may be obtained to aid in problem diagnosis. If the vehicle is shut off before the code is read from a RABS-I module, the code will be lost. In some cases, the code may reappear when the vehicle is restarted. In other cases, the vehicle may have to be driven to reproduce the problem and, if the problem was associated with an intermittent condition, it may be difficult to reproduce. Therefore, whenever possible, it is recommended that the code be read before the vehicle is shut off. RABS II modules have been designed with Keep Alive Memory to preserve stored codes during key-off, and are to be used to service all prior year RABS I systems, except for 1987 and 1988 Bronco II vehicles. WARNING: PLACE BLOCKS BEHIND THE REAR WHEELS AND IN FRONT OF THE FRONT WHEELS TO PREVENT THE VEHICLE FROM MOVING WHILE THE FLASHOUT CODE IS BEING TAKEN. NOTE: If the red BRAKE light is also on, due to a grounding of the fluid level circuit (perhaps low brake fluid), no flashout code will be flashed and the REAR ABS light will remain on steadily. NOTE: If there is more than one system fault only the first recognized flashout code may be obtained. Obtaining the Flashout Code A flashout code may be obtained only when the yellow REAR ABS light is on. No code will be flashed if the system is OK. There are certain faults (those associated with the fluid level switch or loss of power to the module) that will cause the system to be deactivated and the REAR ABS light to be illuminated, but will not provide a diagnostic flashout code. Before obtaining the flashout code, drive the vehicle to a level area, and place the shift lever in PARK for automatic transmissions and NEUTRAL for manual transmissions. Notice whether the red BRAKE light is on or not (for future reference) and then apply the parking brake. If a RABS(-1) module is installed, keep the ignition key in the ON position so that the code will not be lost. RABS II modules have been designed with Keep Alive Memory to preserve stored codes during key-off, and are to be used to service all prior year RABS I systems, except for 1987 and 1988 Bronco II vehicles. WARNING: PLACE BLOCKS BEHIND THE REAR WHEELS AND IN FRONT OF THE FRONT WHEELS TO PREVENT THE VEHICLE FROM MOVING WHILE THE FLASHOUT CODE IS BEING TAKEN. To obtain the flashout code, locate the RABS diagnostic connector (with the Bk/Or wire), and attach a jumper wire to it. Momentarily ground it to the chassis. When the ground is made and then broken, the REAR ABS light should begin to flash. NOTE: If the red BRAKE light was on (as noticed before the parking brake was applied), the problem may be with the low fluid level circuit and, in this case, no flashout code will be flashed and the light will remain on steadily. The code consists of a number of short flashes and ends with a long flash. Count the short flashes and include the following long flash in the count to obtain the code number. For example, three short flashes followed by one long flash indicates Flashout Code Four. The code will continue to repeat itself until the key is turned off. It is recommended that the code be verified by reading it several times. In addition, the first code flashed may be too short because it may have been started in the middle. It should be ignored..."

rabs-codes-92.jpg

by Ford via Steve83 @

http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/280857

I have more ABS info & some RABS Codes Pin-Point Tests in my site under Brake, ABS

 
OP
OP
M

mspbronco

New member
Joined
Aug 17, 2011
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Location
sacramento ca
yo,

WELCOME

If t6hat tip by our friend here, BB doesn't show anything.

You have the Ford Anti-Lock Brake (ABS) System; RABS II in 87-92

One of the most unnerving failures that can occur with this system is the loss of pedal when braking. The

problem may feel like a bad master cylinder, but it may not be the master cylinder. The real problem may be a bad Electro Hydraulic (EH) valve in the rear wheel antilock brake system. If a small piece of dirt or rust gets into the unit, it may prevent the dump valve inside the EH valve from closing. The dump valve will then leak fluid into the accumulator when the brakes are applied. The misrouted fluid allows the pedal to drop, and the pedal may go all the way to the floor without applying the brakes. No ABS warning light or fault code will be found either because the limited diagnostics on this system can't tell if the dump valve is fully closed or not.

Wagner Brakes recommends the following procedure

to find out if the problem is a bad master cylinder or a leaky EH valve in the RWAL system. To rule out a bad master cylinder, disconnect the rear brake line at the master cylinder and install a plug to block off the port. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal about an inch to purge any air from the outlet, then tighten the plug while the assistant holds the pedal in this position. After tightening the plug, continue to apply pressure to the pedal

to prevent damage to the primary cup in the master cylinder as the cup moved across the vent port.

If the pedal holds and no longer drops, it isn't the master cylinder that's causing the problem.

Reconnect the brake line to the master cylinder and block off the outlet port on the EH valve. Then apply pressure

to the brake pedal again to see if the pedal drops. If the pedal goes down, the EH valve is leaking fluid into the accumulator. The EH valve needs to be replaced.

It's important to note that one of the underlying

auses of EH valve failure is moisture-contaminated brake fluid.

If the fluid is more than a couple years old, it may contain a lot of moisture. GM trucks do not have a recommended service interval for brake fluid, but most experts say that flushing the brake lines every couple of years for preventative maintenance can greatly reduce the risk of internal corrosion inside the brake lines and

EH valve. But most people totally ignore their brakes until something goes wrong. So the best you can do is flush the system and replace the old fluid with new when the EH valve is replaced -- then recommend

a fluid change every two years to prevent a repeat occurrence.

Air trapped in the EH valve can be another source of trouble with the RWAL system. Some RWAL EH valves (the smaller ones) do not have a bleeder ****** which makes the uni hard to bleed if air gets into the lines. The trick here is to

loosen the brake line connections at the valve to vent air when

bleeding the brakes. Brakes can be bled in the usual way manuallyor with pressure equipment. The wheel bleeding sequence is RR, LR, RF, LF. If a pressure bleeder is used, the combination valvemust be held open.

by Larry C CarleySoftware.com via aa1car.com

RABS Self Test & Diagnosis Codes; "...The possible flashout codes are listed and explained in the Flash Codes Chart. Note that Codes 1 and 16 are not used. Flashout Codes Whenever the yellow REAR ABS light comes on during normal operation, a flashout code may be obtained to aid in problem diagnosis. If the vehicle is shut off before the code is read from a RABS-I module, the code will be lost. In some cases, the code may reappear when the vehicle is restarted. In other cases, the vehicle may have to be driven to reproduce the problem and, if the problem was associated with an intermittent condition, it may be difficult to reproduce. Therefore, whenever possible, it is recommended that the code be read before the vehicle is shut off. RABS II modules have been designed with Keep Alive Memory to preserve stored codes during key-off, and are to be used to service all prior year RABS I systems, except for 1987 and 1988 Bronco II vehicles. WARNING: PLACE BLOCKS BEHIND THE REAR WHEELS AND IN FRONT OF THE FRONT WHEELS TO PREVENT THE VEHICLE FROM MOVING WHILE THE FLASHOUT CODE IS BEING TAKEN. NOTE: If the red BRAKE light is also on, due to a grounding of the fluid level circuit (perhaps low brake fluid), no flashout code will be flashed and the REAR ABS light will remain on steadily. NOTE: If there is more than one system fault only the first recognized flashout code may be obtained. Obtaining the Flashout Code A flashout code may be obtained only when the yellow REAR ABS light is on. No code will be flashed if the system is OK. There are certain faults (those associated with the fluid level switch or loss of power to the module) that will cause the system to be deactivated and the REAR ABS light to be illuminated, but will not provide a diagnostic flashout code. Before obtaining the flashout code, drive the vehicle to a level area, and place the shift lever in PARK for automatic transmissions and NEUTRAL for manual transmissions. Notice whether the red BRAKE light is on or not (for future reference) and then apply the parking brake. If a RABS(-1) module is installed, keep the ignition key in the ON position so that the code will not be lost. RABS II modules have been designed with Keep Alive Memory to preserve stored codes during key-off, and are to be used to service all prior year RABS I systems, except for 1987 and 1988 Bronco II vehicles. WARNING: PLACE BLOCKS BEHIND THE REAR WHEELS AND IN FRONT OF THE FRONT WHEELS TO PREVENT THE VEHICLE FROM MOVING WHILE THE FLASHOUT CODE IS BEING TAKEN. To obtain the flashout code, locate the RABS diagnostic connector (with the Bk/Or wire), and attach a jumper wire to it. Momentarily ground it to the chassis. When the ground is made and then broken, the REAR ABS light should begin to flash. NOTE: If the red BRAKE light was on (as noticed before the parking brake was applied), the problem may be with the low fluid level circuit and, in this case, no flashout code will be flashed and the light will remain on steadily. The code consists of a number of short flashes and ends with a long flash. Count the short flashes and include the following long flash in the count to obtain the code number. For example, three short flashes followed by one long flash indicates Flashout Code Four. The code will continue to repeat itself until the key is turned off. It is recommended that the code be verified by reading it several times. In addition, the first code flashed may be too short because it may have been started in the middle. It should be ignored..."

rabs-codes-92.jpg

by Ford via Steve83 @

http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/280857

I have more ABS info & some RABS Codes Pin-Point Tests in my site under Brake, ABS
thank it was master cylndeer all cool

 

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