It starts and idles fine. When I take off it does fine until you start pressing the gas pedal down at a good rate it starts to spit, spuder and sounds like it is backfiring through the intake. I have replaced the fuel pump on the frame rail, fuel pressure regulator, the thing on the side of the distributor. Will the fuseable links under the hood cause something like this? If so how do you replace them? Or do you have any other ideas? Thanks for any help.
My 88 302 bronco wont run right.
- Thread starter meade
- Start date
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Krafty
New member
have you re-set your timing after changing the icm on the side of the distributor?
This is what I did this weekend. I checked the compression and it was anywhere from 190 to 160 so that’s good. I put new plugs, wires, cap and rotor on it not too long ago. I tried a known good coil on it and it did not help. I checked timing and it is also good. One thing I noticed was while I was testing it in the garage is that it is running really rich I mean eye burning rich. It idles fine but if you put the pedal all the way down it will go to about 3,000 RPM's and then start falling all over its self. What would cause this thing run so rich? Any help would be great. Thanks.
Last edited by a moderator:
Elmo
Member
sounds just like one I had ended up being the O2 sensor
Krafty
New member
could also be the coolant temp sensor. it acts like a choke on a carburator. if its cold Coolant temp sensor says to the computer "More FUEL Damnit" so if it only does it when the engine is warm and it running really rich, look at either 02 sensor or coolant temp sensor.
I put a new coolant tem sensor it but it did not help. I hate to buy a $60 O2 sensor and it not fix it either. By the time I get this thing up and running I could have bought a nice running 4X4, isn’t that the luck. Thanks for the help keep it coming.
Krafty
New member
this is why I like carburetors
Krafty
New member
intake, carb, duraspark II or III ignition components,I dunno if some of the current ignition stuff can be substituted. look into if you need to down grade your fuel pump(s). other than that, I have no clue.
Ike
New member
This may have nothing to do with your problem but for the 20 minutes it takes to pull, check and clean the Idle air controller it might be worth it, on my '88 302 it caused me headaches for months I changed plugs, wires, cap, rotor, check timing etc. The tell tale of this problem for me was, surging idle and it would bog and sputter on a launch from a light.
If you clean it use a sensor safe cleaner, spray in let soak, and then shake it lengthwise there is a small piston inside if its moving freely that's good. While its off take a multimeter and check if there's resistance through the coil. Mine the coil was fried.
I'm not sure what your driving year, engine and km's / miles but i hope this might help.
Good luck
If you clean it use a sensor safe cleaner, spray in let soak, and then shake it lengthwise there is a small piston inside if its moving freely that's good. While its off take a multimeter and check if there's resistance through the coil. Mine the coil was fried.
I'm not sure what your driving year, engine and km's / miles but i hope this might help.
Good luck
2percent
New member
having this exact problem I just swapped the ICM but timing is out I will update when I figure mine out.
BroncoJoe19
Active member
Pull Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) From your onboard computer.
Your engine and transmission are computer controlled.
The computer uses sensors to tell it a number of different things and it controls actuators that push or pull mechanical levers (kinda). If one or more sensors aren't working properly, the computer goes "blind" and doesn't know what to do. If the computer can "see" but one of the actuators is broken and therefore can't follow the commands of the computer; the engine won't run correctly. The computer is preprogrammed with set values for each of its sensors, and each of its actuators. It will run a self check of all systems, like the space shuttle; it will compare its set value(s) to the value(s) it recieves from its sensors, and actuators. If any sensor or acutator is out of the "normal" range the computer will generate a "code." It will generate some codes on the fly, and others will be stored while you are driving. There is a simple method to "pull codes" out of the computer for one to use for diagnostic purposes.
Earlier versions of On Board Diagnostics OBD 1983-1995 can flash the error code to the dash board and can be pulled in one's driveway without any special tools.
Later versions of On Board Diagnostics OBDII some 1995, and pretty much all 1996 and newer, require one to use a code reader or scanner tool.
Some auto parts stores will scan your engine codes for FREE, you may want to call around. Some will scan OBDII but not the older (prior to 1996) OBD systems.
SO here you go...
How to scan FORD on board Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in your driveway
http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?s=&showtopic=14269&view=findpost&p=74587
Your engine and transmission are computer controlled.
The computer uses sensors to tell it a number of different things and it controls actuators that push or pull mechanical levers (kinda). If one or more sensors aren't working properly, the computer goes "blind" and doesn't know what to do. If the computer can "see" but one of the actuators is broken and therefore can't follow the commands of the computer; the engine won't run correctly. The computer is preprogrammed with set values for each of its sensors, and each of its actuators. It will run a self check of all systems, like the space shuttle; it will compare its set value(s) to the value(s) it recieves from its sensors, and actuators. If any sensor or acutator is out of the "normal" range the computer will generate a "code." It will generate some codes on the fly, and others will be stored while you are driving. There is a simple method to "pull codes" out of the computer for one to use for diagnostic purposes.
Earlier versions of On Board Diagnostics OBD 1983-1995 can flash the error code to the dash board and can be pulled in one's driveway without any special tools.
Later versions of On Board Diagnostics OBDII some 1995, and pretty much all 1996 and newer, require one to use a code reader or scanner tool.
Some auto parts stores will scan your engine codes for FREE, you may want to call around. Some will scan OBDII but not the older (prior to 1996) OBD systems.
SO here you go...
How to scan FORD on board Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in your driveway
http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?s=&showtopic=14269&view=findpost&p=74587
