MOTHER#@!$%

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bidibronco

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Well, for the third time in three years I have another motor tha needs to be replaced. I think I have a curse. First motor had about 5000 miles on fresh rebuild, second motor was a low milage motor and this motor has a mere 3000 miles on it! Guess I need to get something different for it? Not sure what I'm doing but it's getting expensive. Anyone have any suggestions? I honestly don't want to get rid of her but she's being a bitch! Well, give me some words of wisdom and some encuragment! Thanks everyone!!!

 

Broncobill78

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Well, for the third time in three years I have another motor tha needs to be replaced. I think I have a curse. First motor had about 5000 miles on fresh rebuild, second motor was a low milage motor and this motor has a mere 3000 miles on it! Guess I need to get something different for it? Not sure what I'm doing but it's getting expensive. Anyone have any suggestions? I honestly don't want to get rid of her but she's being a bitch! Well, give me some words of wisdom and some encuragment! Thanks everyone!!!
Sorry to hear it, that's a real shot in the '****.

Why are they they failing ? It's hard to believe three of them have blown for the same reason. What happened to this one ? Spun bearing, overheated, threw a rod, broken crank, just plain seized ? Is the same guy rebuilding them ? Are *you* rebuilding them ? Were they all rebuilds or factory assembled ?

What are you doing when these things blow ? Most of us like to goof around w/these things and I've seen more than one or two guys have an engine head south in the middle of a mud hole or running down the highway @ 85 turning 38's. What are you running for gears ?

The bottom line is that it happens for a reason, either the engine is poorly build & has some sort of flaw or they're somehow being pushed beyond their mechanical limits (too hot, too many revs, cheap oil, etc)

I know it's the last thing you want to hear @ the moment but if you keep it I'd simply bite the bullet this time & shell out for a crate engine direct from Ford. Lord knows it's not the cheapest way to go but it doesn't have to be a full-blown SVO (or SVT these days I guess) engine, 300hp is plenty & all things being considered you may not *want* more than that. There are also a number of others out there building good crate motors (I lived in Memphis for a decade so RHS comes to mind) also but I wouldn't have whoever's been building them build me another. Besides the larger places take advantage of the economy of scale to offer a cheaper product as well as offereing a good guarantee with it as well. Junkyard motors are *always* a crapshoot, unless you personally know the history of the vehicle it's coming out of I just wouldn't throw the dice. Have you ever SEEN the guys at the boneyard pull a motor ? Not to cast aspersions upon anyone here but just about every yard monkey I've ever met has been someone who couldn't be a mechanic because he wouldn't put down the hammer and liked the torch a little too much. Boneyard engines are generally pulled using two tools, a torch & a forklift, and they're never treated with very much care (especially not the older V8's that we buy. A new BMW V12 gets pulled out in their garage by a guy who has a big SnapOn tool chest, shrink-wrapped and kept inside & the 1980 302 is pulled out in the yard by the guy who drives the forklift then thrown on a pallet in the mud). I know you'll have to spend some time thinking about it but you're going to have two choices, either walk away & sell it for parts or invest the time & money into putting a quality engine into it.

 
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bidibronco

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Thanks for the quick reply. On the boneyard note, I go to the pick-n-pull and pull it myself. I ran it down to a buddies shop to see what he thought. I guess I over assumed on it. As I was driving the noise was gone, as I started to slow it would come back at a certain RPM and go away again at idle? ***?!?! We narrowed it down to the flywheel. So out has to come the motor to fix that and why I'm at it, I'll pull the pan off and give everything a good lookover. Also, it'll give me a chance to clean my engine bay this time. I built this motor and thats what ****** me off the most. I made POSOTIVE EVERYTHING was torqued to spec and every ring was in tollerance and everything. Even went and got molly rings because the cast one's out of the kit were just a bit to sloppy for me. I guess I did a good job, good enough to f#@k up a fly wheel? I'll keep everyone informed though... thanks for all the help from anyone at this site!

 

Justshootme84

Rest in Peace Friend! Never forgotten..
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I finally got tired of blowing up 351W's and dropped in a 460. my $0.02, JSM84

 

Broncobill78

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Thanks for the quick reply. On the boneyard note, I go to the pick-n-pull and pull it myself. I ran it down to a buddies shop to see what he thought. I guess I over assumed on it. As I was driving the noise was gone, as I started to slow it would come back at a certain RPM and go away again at idle? ***?!?! We narrowed it down to the flywheel. So out has to come the motor to fix that and why I'm at it, I'll pull the pan off and give everything a good lookover. Also, it'll give me a chance to clean my engine bay this time. I built this motor and thats what ****** me off the most. I made POSOTIVE EVERYTHING was torqued to spec and every ring was in tollerance and everything. Even went and got molly rings because the cast one's out of the kit were just a bit to sloppy for me. I guess I did a good job, good enough to f#@k up a fly wheel? I'll keep everyone informed though... thanks for all the help from anyone at this site!

Well, $hit, that's good to hear and I won't lie to you, I'm glad some other schmuck is looking at replacing his flywheel. I was starting to feel lonely. I can entirely relate to the engine deal, I built my last 460 myself and must have spent a good 10-days doing it. I had just over $5K into machine work & parts and sat there the entire build with the factory manual in front of me like a bible & probablly checked my torque settings 3X every time I installed a bolt or nut. Bought a whole set of little vacuum caps to put on the rod bolts when I installed the rods and I must have used a yard of plastigage. I can relate. I even went a step further & bought one of those diamond wheel ring gappers and spend 4 or 5 DAYS gapping the rings, I probably threw out a dozen because I convinced myself I'd gaped them too large because I was .000003 over <grin>. I bought & used so much moly **** my girlfriend thought I had something ***** going on on the side. There's nothing like it though, I still have the Dyno slips showing 430hp pulls @ 512lbs of torque. I had a ****** that wouldn't go down for days, thought I'd finally have to beat it down with a hammer.

 

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