Looking to get my first bronco

[99GrandTouring]

Hello all,

I've been wanting a bronco for a while now, however before I got out looking I was wondering if you all could help me out on some specifications / how they are set up..

I want a newer body style bronco (90-95) but have some questions.

Let me start off by saying that although I dont know alot about bronco's I am a ford guy through and through and am familiar with 4x4's ( I am a LandRover Technician, should I run and hide /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> )

My questions are these, I see alot of articles on solid axle swaps, does this mean the front is an independant setup and if so what model years was this done? (can someone post pics of the front axle setup if it is independant)

What is the axle setup (front and rear) I believe the rear is a ford 8.8" right?

Also what years were the last years that had the manual (lever) operated T-box?

Or is there a conversion to convert from push button to a manual setup?

So any help or direction on the specs for the years etc would be greatly appreciated, hopefully soon I'll have one!

Thanks!

 

[99GrandTouring]

Okay I found out its a Twin Traction Beam...

Hmm.. What was the last year they put a solid front axle in the full size bronco?

How well will a TTB front end stand up? I'm not looking to do any rock crawling but this will be a wheeling machine.

Thanks!

 

[bluesman17]

79 was the last year for a solid axle. TTBs are the best independant because they still act a tad like solids in giving some flex. The rear ends are either 8.8s or 9s just depends. The new body styles are 92-96 (all have push button at this point from what ive heard.)

 

[mbtech2003]

front end is a dana 44 /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

usally has 3.55 gear ratios in those years because of the E40D trans

 

[99GrandTouring]

So basically what year would you all reccomend?

80-91 then?

Is there anything really bad about the TTB for me then?

Most I'll do is a lift, larger tires, and some gears maybe.. But I definately want the floor shift (less hassle)

 

[Justshootme84]

99GT, here are a few specs on the fullsize Bronco, from 1978-1996. (The 66-77 model was the smaller, original one.)

78-79 solid front Dana44 axle, rear Ford 9" axle.

80-96 TTB D44 front, a bit confusing on the rear axle. The 9" was replaced with the Ford 8.8" from 1983- on, but some models up to 86 still came with the 9".

Body style changes from 79 to 80, 86 to 87, and 91 to 92. So the 78-79, 80-86, 87-91 and 92-96 are the groupings. The frame is basically the same for all years, except for the "swiss cheese" experiment on the rear of the 80/81 frame. The 92-96 front frame horns have a crumple zone for the front bumper, making custom mounting of aftermarket bumpers or tow hooks a challenge.

Various transfer cases were offered, with the electric shift Borg-Warner 13-56 offered about 87/88-on. The manual shift version can be found thru 96, but became less common and usually only on the base/Custom model.

Trim levels were Custom, XL, and XLT. Special options packages like the Eddie Bauer were available with upgraded interior and trim, badges, etc.

Engine options for the 78/79 were the 300I-6,351M and 400M. For 80-96 were the 300 I-6, 302, and 351W. The 351W H.O. was offered in 84-86.

You can find most of this info in the HAynes or Chilton repair manuals, or in the link I posted in the Tech Articles forum under "Miesk5Homepage".

AS far as the TTB goes, it has it's good and bad points compared to a solid axle or a true IFS. I can say from experience that the TTB does not take well to a lift kit, but a moderate 4" to 6" kit properly designed with 33"-35" tires does fine for most offroad driving. Alignment is the main concern, even with the stock axle. I think the main reason for doing the SAS or solid axle swap is to allow for more lift, larger tires, and greater flex. Something to keep in mind with the Bronco is that the axles are the same as the 1/2-ton F-150 pick-up. Taller tires and wide rims add more stress on those parts, like the balljonits and axle shafts.

Here's a pic of the front TTB with a SKyjacker 6" lift installed:

 

[hms79]

I believe there have been discussions on here about switching from push button to manual shift transfer cases. Personally, I have the push button in my 1996 and haven't had any problems, however I once had a bronco II that was electric and it didn't work. It stayed locked in 4HI all the time. My 1996 is all stock with 32X11.50s, and I have used mine a lot off road, though mostly just mud and snow. As far as engines go, with gas at over $2.00 a gallon, if I were going to buy, I would probably buy a 5.0L. That being said I have a 5.8L (351) so who am I to say. Anyway, good luck, and welcome to the family. Try not to crush too many jeeps on the trail! >-

 

[99GrandTouring]

well... I'm confused on body styles now...

5.0L is the way I want to go definately...

Just confused on body style changes... I know though 100% for sure I want a 78 -95 model..

b-(

Anyone have a pic of the body styles side by side? /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[Justshootme84]

86

88

You can view thru the gallery for the different year models. Here's a pic of my 86, which has the square-looking front grille and indented fenderwell openings. The 88 is missing the bumpers, but you can see the more sloped nose and flared out fender openings. The 92-96 is similar to the 87-91, but with a different style grille.

78 Bronco (Ravin351)

96 Bronco (Ski)

 

[Justshootme84]

Here's some more detailed info on each model year and the changes/deletions from Ford:

Bronconine.com

 

[Minnesotabronco96]

id look for rust and run the truck and see if unnormal fluid comes out.

 

[99GrandTouring]

Thank you guys very much!

As far as rust, other than door creases, fenderwells etc.. any other specific areas?

Any certain model to stay away from like the swiss cheese frame years?

Thanks again!

 

[Justshootme84]

99GT, the most common rust areas are the fenderwells and the tailgate. You can also get rust started anywhere along the doors, but mostly on the bottom along the rocker panel. The top-rear edge of the cab behind the rain gutters is a weak area prone to stress cracks and leaks.

Also, check the underside of the grille/ radiator core support where it mounts to the frame. The bushing and mount on the passenger side is near the battery, and is often totally corroded. Take a look at the frame as well. Is it rusted thru in spots, or just a few areas of surface rust. If it was never undercoated, a 15-20 year old frame can be in bad shape.

IF you are set on the 87-91 model Bronco, I would stay away from one with an AOD automatic transmission if you plan to install a lift and bigger tires. That's just my personal opinion, and I feel that the C-6 automatic tranny is much stronger. Either of the manual 4-speed trannines are good (NP435 and T-18), but the Mazda 5-sp OD is not as strong.