I found this on Summit, Its a Powertrax Lock-Right locker. Its a gear style locker that just replaces the spider gears in my stock case. i was thinkin this would be easier to put in then a Detroit or Power-Loc, that comes with a whole new case. For this all i would have to do is slide my axle shafts out, take the third member out, then pull the spider gears out and put my Powertrax in right? I wouldnt have that take it apart any more then that, like takin my ring and pinion off and then reseting them? Also im not goin any bigger then 33-12.50s on this truck, i just want to have the added traction while i have the truck.
Locker Q
- Thread starter Redneck86
- Start date
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Broncobill78
New member
Well that's a hard call. I've read two installation articles, one for a D44 rear & the other for a D35 rear. I haven't been able to find on for a 9" yet & since you're talking about a removable center section I have to assume that you *don't* have an 8.8" in there. The D44 required the removal of the carrier & the ring gear to install the locker but the D35 *didn't*, so right now it's a coin toss. Either way once you've seperated the ring-gear & pinion then you're stuck with re-establishing a good contact pattern. There's just no way around THAT particular beastie. Get yourself some Prussian Blue & read up REAL well on the procedure, either that or prepare your checkbook to write a check or two.
At this point I would contact the company and ask them for a .pdf of the instalation procedure for your particular axle. Read it before making any decisions so that you're going into it with your eyes open and armed with all the info that you'll need.
At this point I would contact the company and ask them for a .pdf of the instalation procedure for your particular axle. Read it before making any decisions so that you're going into it with your eyes open and armed with all the info that you'll need.
Broncobill78
New member
Whoops, my bad. I meant to include a link to the refrenced article but forgot. Hey, if it DOES bolt into the 9" without any effort then great, once again before relying upon anything a vendor has to say I would contact the companies tech line directly and speak with them about it.
http://www.4x4wire.com/reviews/d44lockright/installation/?
But beyond that, I have to ask, why bother dumping *anything* into a truck you're looking to sell ? Now I can see making needed repairs but quite honestly I question the wisdom of making upgrades that cost hundreds of dollars and simply aren't required. Tuck that money away and use it to buy the truck you DO want. Granted your current ride won't be as capable as you'd like it to be but is this upgrade really going to add anything to the resale value ? At the end of the day it's just money out of your pocket. You may want to consider just cleaning it up, keeping it nice and then spending the extra cash on your next truck. Throwing a locker in there to take it out 4-wheeling isn't *really* the way to treat a truck you're hoping to sell for as much as you can get for it. There are a LOT of ways to mess up your ride out on the trail. Personally, I'd leave the thing be and treat it well until you hand it over to the next owner and then let HIM go & beat it off-road.
The number of buyers out there who will have *any* idea what this locker is and does is pretty small. More likely what you'll find is that explaining it to someone will turn them away because they're concerned about you *upgrading* the axle all by yourself in the driveway. Lots of buyers shy away from upgrades like that unless you have reciepts from a professional shop indicating (to them) that the work was properly done. Right or wrong that's just the way a lot of people think. I've walked away from trucks that were modified at home by guys I didn't think were qualified to do the work. I'm not saying for a moment that you can't do this & do it well, just understand that a lot of buyers may have a different perception.
Throwing $$$ into a rig you're looking to sell is rarely a winning proposition. If it ain't broke then don't fix it. Wait until you have the truck you want & then dump your heart, soul, money & blood into THAT one.
http://www.4x4wire.com/reviews/d44lockright/installation/?
But beyond that, I have to ask, why bother dumping *anything* into a truck you're looking to sell ? Now I can see making needed repairs but quite honestly I question the wisdom of making upgrades that cost hundreds of dollars and simply aren't required. Tuck that money away and use it to buy the truck you DO want. Granted your current ride won't be as capable as you'd like it to be but is this upgrade really going to add anything to the resale value ? At the end of the day it's just money out of your pocket. You may want to consider just cleaning it up, keeping it nice and then spending the extra cash on your next truck. Throwing a locker in there to take it out 4-wheeling isn't *really* the way to treat a truck you're hoping to sell for as much as you can get for it. There are a LOT of ways to mess up your ride out on the trail. Personally, I'd leave the thing be and treat it well until you hand it over to the next owner and then let HIM go & beat it off-road.
The number of buyers out there who will have *any* idea what this locker is and does is pretty small. More likely what you'll find is that explaining it to someone will turn them away because they're concerned about you *upgrading* the axle all by yourself in the driveway. Lots of buyers shy away from upgrades like that unless you have reciepts from a professional shop indicating (to them) that the work was properly done. Right or wrong that's just the way a lot of people think. I've walked away from trucks that were modified at home by guys I didn't think were qualified to do the work. I'm not saying for a moment that you can't do this & do it well, just understand that a lot of buyers may have a different perception.
Throwing $$$ into a rig you're looking to sell is rarely a winning proposition. If it ain't broke then don't fix it. Wait until you have the truck you want & then dump your heart, soul, money & blood into THAT one.
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Redneck86
First On Race Day
Yea i started thinkin that after i posted it. But im just kinda thinking out loud about sh*t i could maybe do to make it better mechanical, it needs body work to cover up the damn holes in side when the trim came off (it got ***** off road and looked like sh*t but im thinkin i shoulda left it on) i dont have a welder to fix them either and im not payin to do it, plus after that itll need paint.
Ive already got some money saved to buy a new Edelbrock 1407 Performer (750cfm) carb, Taylor wires, ACCEL coil & plugs and an MSD cap n rotor, thats about 400 bucks to get the right carb on it and a tuned up to run right. After that it needs a steering shaft and tires...but im out of job right now so thats goin slow in this small town.
Im really tring to think of *anything* i can do to get it mechanically better and get more money out of it
Ive already got some money saved to buy a new Edelbrock 1407 Performer (750cfm) carb, Taylor wires, ACCEL coil & plugs and an MSD cap n rotor, thats about 400 bucks to get the right carb on it and a tuned up to run right. After that it needs a steering shaft and tires...but im out of job right now so thats goin slow in this small town.
Im really tring to think of *anything* i can do to get it mechanically better and get more money out of it
Redneck, in your case if you want some added traction for offroad while on a budget, look at getting a mini-spool for the Ford 9" rear. Just my $0.02, JSM84
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Redneck86
First On Race Day
Dont they fully lock the axle shafts together? Ive looked at them before and thought they were a really good idea, can you run them on the street too, i didn think you could.
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Broncobill78
New member
I hear what you're saying. I'd agree with Randy as far as a mini-spool being a better choice (I *wouldn't* put one up front but out back it's not a bad idea, but that gets back to the whole money dumping issue)
$275+ for axle upgrades, $400+ for a carb and intake. You're closing on on $1K for a truck you plan to sell. Will the upgrades you're talking abou ADD $1000 to the sale price ? Give that one a lot of thought. Leave the axle alone, keep the intake it has & buy a *rebuilt* replacement carb, that's what, maybe $150 ?? It'll run better for the next guy and you'll have $850 in your pocket to spend towards the truck you want to buy. Buy yourself a couple cans of carb & brake cleaner and degreaser and clean the **** out of everything. Make it look nice and run as well as you can, let someone else turn it into the truck *they* want it to be. Sell them as blank a canvas as you can.
Just my thoughts, run with the ball as you see fit.
$275+ for axle upgrades, $400+ for a carb and intake. You're closing on on $1K for a truck you plan to sell. Will the upgrades you're talking abou ADD $1000 to the sale price ? Give that one a lot of thought. Leave the axle alone, keep the intake it has & buy a *rebuilt* replacement carb, that's what, maybe $150 ?? It'll run better for the next guy and you'll have $850 in your pocket to spend towards the truck you want to buy. Buy yourself a couple cans of carb & brake cleaner and degreaser and clean the **** out of everything. Make it look nice and run as well as you can, let someone else turn it into the truck *they* want it to be. Sell them as blank a canvas as you can.
Just my thoughts, run with the ball as you see fit.
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Redneck86
First On Race Day
So your saying i *can* run a minispool on the street, and not f*ck my sh*t up? 
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> I just looked at carbs real fast on Summit to see what one would cost, the 750 is only 7 bucks more the a 600 so i figured i couldnt go wrong. i havent looked at Edelbrocks remans yet.
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> I just looked at carbs real fast on Summit to see what one would cost, the 750 is only 7 bucks more the a 600 so i figured i couldnt go wrong. i havent looked at Edelbrocks remans yet.
Broncobill78
New member
Never having run one on the street myself I won't comment. I DID run a pair of spools on a 75'F150 that was strictly a trail/race truck but the only time it was ever on the street was when it was trailered. Considering the way it ****** around in the dirt I never even *considered* running that thing on the street but front spools are always a bit twitchy. I honestly don't have the experience to comment on this one. I don't know that I'd put a spool into *anything* I was hoping to sell, most people are funny about wanting to be able to drive their vehicles on the road without any issues. If you were talking about installing one in the truck you planned on *keeping* then sure, maybe that's different but me, personally, I'd be reluctant to do that with something I was planning to sell to a complete stranger.
As far as the carb goes, personally I think a 750 is perhaps a bit large for a basically stock 351W. The 600 is a better choice in my view. More is not always better as far as carbs go, you have to have the airflow (heads, cam & exhaust) to support the ammount of fuel you throw at the engine.
As far as the carb goes, personally I think a 750 is perhaps a bit large for a basically stock 351W. The 600 is a better choice in my view. More is not always better as far as carbs go, you have to have the airflow (heads, cam & exhaust) to support the ammount of fuel you throw at the engine.
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Redneck86
First On Race Day
I was thinking that the 750 would help out here on mountain passes, with my truck having 33s. I was hoping that at higher RPM it would have more punch then a 600, and maybe not make the engine strain as much.
