Koeo and Koer Codes

[2percent]

So My 1995 Bronco with 5.8 and AOD died on me yesterday. Ran perfect and no check engine light and out of no-where just wouldn't go. Cranked it over and it stumbled and died. Held Gas to floor turned key and she hesitated and gulped for a second then revved up good. Ran fine the rest of the way home. I ran the test today and I could actually here it run different as the test was performed which I hope means all of that was working ok but then I got some codes. I have looked but cant seem to determine what these all mean. I mean is it all related to one thing or is it all seperate problems. These were all fast codes I got on my scanner if that makes a difference

KOEO-111

212

332

KOER-311

116

 

[miesk5]

yo; a quickie for you

DTC 212 - Ignition module circuit failure-SPOUT circuit grounded; Check to see if the spout connector is good by insering a piece of wire where the connector is . If that doesn't help any try checking the wiring all the way until it goes into the connector.

DTC 116 to 118 ECT Troubleshooting & Possible Causes; "...The ECT sensor is a thermistor, basically a resistor that changes voltage accordingly to temperature changes. It provides a reading that's used by the EEC to change fuel delivery at engine startup to reduce emissions and monitors the temperature of the engine. If you see some rust in it clean it by sanding the surface using a fine grit sandpaper, Also check the connector and wiring..."

DTC 311 - Thermactor air system inoperable. "...The computer determined that for some reason the fresh air injection from the Thermactor system was not present. There are several components that make up this system. The initial component is the smog pump. The first checks I would make are the hoses and plumbing from the smog pump back to the diverter valve (behind the pass. cylinder head) and then on to the crossover pipe at the back of the heads and down to the catalytic converter. The check valves that are at the center of the cross over pipe and the top of the metal tube from the cat are often the culprits as they can and do snap in half as the get old. If the plumbing looks to be in good order we can discuss the slightly more complicated aspects of the system. The diverter valve also has two vacuum lines running to it. Make certain they are in place and intact. (Computer needs to be able to control the flow of fresh air by the Thermactor system)..."

DTC 332 - Insufficient EGR flow detected. "...Atop the EGR valve there is a sensor called the EVP (EGR Valve Position) sensor. It detects movement of the pintle iside the EGR valve. You can apply vacuum to the vacuum barb on the EGR valve and observe through the holes in the casting whether the valve is moving or not. It may just be dirty which requires some careful scrubbing and NO SOLVENTS. Otherwise, if the EGR valve is functioning and moving when vacuum is applied, the EVP sensor is suspect and the electrical connections to it should be checked first. (Computer needs to know the EGR valve position for emissions control)..."

see my site for more info on all; will try to post more info soon.

was engine at norm op temp before running KOER portion? all lights, accessories and fan switch OFF too?

 

[2percent]

Thanks Miesk you are the Man Im going to check these out and re run the test Ill update asap

 

[miesk5]

Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor

"This measures the temperature of engine, and has a great impact on fuel ratio. This makes simple work of enriching the mixture on start up, overheating, and full throttle fun. It also allows us to lean out the mixture at certain times, to shorten the time it takes to warm up the engine helping us get great fuel economy. The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is a thermal transistor, which means it allows less electricity to pass through the sensor the warmer it gets. The ECT receives the “Signal Return” voltage from the EEC, then allows a certain amount to return back to the EEC. Because the ECT is in direct contact with the engine coolant flow it changes resistance in response to the temperature of that coolant. The ECT is third in command in the hierarchy of EFI sensors, this means this sensor is very important when calculating fuel ratios and timing curves. This is because of simply chemistry; fuel and spark are constants in the equation. Air is the biggest variable in combustion; it changes density greatly over a range of temperature. So keeping track of the changing temperatures of the incoming air and the engine in which it is burnt becomes very important. But due to its simplicity of design, the ECT is rarely at fault when problems occur. The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. To accomplish this, the engine should be at normal operating temperature...Before you start blaming the engine coolant temperature sensor and replacing it make sure the rest of the coolant system is in good condition. All of the following items will affect the ECT: *Coolant level *Radiator Fan *Water Pump *Water Pump and Fan Belts *Thermostat *Base Timing *Engines general condition *Harness and wire general condition..."

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=10

Location pic in 5.8 (ECT & Temperature Gauge Sending Unit)

Source: by Gacknar (The Mall-Crawler, Jeremy, "Big grey megga beast") at SuperMotors.net http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/265237/original/GT-40%20lower%20intake.JPG

 

[miesk5]

ok, yw; more on the ECT in my site @

http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=918

 

[miesk5]

DTC 332 more on this @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=415

 

[miesk5]

311 see http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=416

DTC 212 see http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=226

Location pics (near driver's side hood hinge) & info in a 96 5.8

Source: by DNBELOWBRONCO (Labor of Love) at SuperMotors.net http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/17883/67031

 

[2percent]

I redid the test in which I initially neglected to get the truck to operating temp. Now i have the true codes I am hoping

111

212

332

538

I am wondering if this is vacuum related as I saw a few that werent as pretty as I like.

 

[2percent]

I redid the test in which I initially neglected to get the truck to operating temp. Now i have the true codes I am hoping

111

212

332

538

I am wondering if this is vacuum related as I saw a few that werent as pretty as I like. or a PIP/spout problem.

 

[miesk5]

okie doggie!

111 was a Pass Code

Self Test - "...A technician that is unfamiliar with the EEC Self-Test can mistakenly believe that continuous Memory codes are not present when they really are. He may run KOER Self-Test and get a pass code (111) and not realize that KOEO Self-Test must be run to receive any Continuous Memory codes. He may run KOEO Self-Test while counting MIL flashes and misinterpret the repeated hard fault pass code (111) to mean that Continuous Memory does not contain any codes. The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. To accomplish this, the engine should be at normal operating temperature..." by Ford via miesk5 at home.comcast.net...

so you did do it by warming it up for the KOER..good job!

DTC 538 Insufficient RPM change during dynamic response test. "...This is another code generated when the dynamic response or "goose" test as some refer to it is not performed during the KOER test. The KOER test requires that after a certain length of time the throttle be opened to bring the idle above 2000 rpm for a short period of time. If the dynamic response test is not performed or the rpm's do not peak ABOVE 2000 rpm's this code will be generated. (Computer needs to compare changes in sensor readings at different RPM's to determine system operation and efficiency)..." by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums...

-------------

A vac leak could cause DTC 332 - Insufficient EGR flow detected

Listen for a hiss; check hose from Valve back to EVR and

DTC 332 & Possible Causes; "...EGR valve sticking closed EGR valve diaphragm leaks EVR solenoid sticking closed Loss of vacuum to or from EVR Open in EVR VPWR or driver circuits Leak or restriction in PFE/DPFE signal hoses.."

DTC 332; "...Continuous Memory DTC 332 indicates the EGR valve did not open with the engine stabilized and the EVR solenoid duty cycle present sometime during vehicle operation. Possible causes: "...Obstructed or cracked hose to EGR valve,Icing, Damaged EGR valve, Damaged EVR solenoid harness..."

Source: by Ford via SigEpBlue (Steve)DTC 332 "...Insufficient EGR flow detected. Atop the EGR valve there is a sensor called the EVP (EGR Valve Position) sensor. It detects movement of the pintle iside the EGR valve. You can apply vacuum to the vacuum barb on the EGR valve and observe through the holes in the casting whether the valve is moving or not. It may just be dirty which requires some careful scrubbing and NO SOLVENTS. Otherwise, if the EGR valve is functioning and moving when vacuum is applied, the EVP sensor is suspect and the electrical connections to it should be checked first. (Computer needs to know the EGR valve position for emissions control)..."

Source: by greystreak92 (Joe B) at fte

DTC 332 & Possible Causes; "...EGR valve sticking closed EGR valve diaphragm leaks EVR solenoid sticking closed Loss of vacuum to or from EVR Open in EVR VPWR or driver circuits Leak or restriction in PFE/DPFE signal hoses.."

Source: by latechsho at Super High Output

Testing; "...There shouldn't be any vacuum at the EGR valve at idle or any time your ass is under the hood fiddling with it, to put it plainly, except for perhaps a very light residual vacuum from the EVR. Check ALL of your vacuum lines FIRST, and the vacuum reservoir for leaks..."

Source: by SigEpBlue

EVR TESTING @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=911

======

If you have detonation; and this is a VERY LONG SHOT so iggie until all else fails for 322

Detonation and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Illumination with DTCs 332, P1407, and/or P1408 May Occur Under Normal Driving Conditions TSB 96-23-4 for Various Cars; Just because the vehicle is not listed in the TSB doesn’t mean you may not have a clogging problem; Figures are missing see Tomco Link Titled, DTC 332, P1407 and P1408 or detonation

Source: by Ford via way2old at fordforum.com http://fordforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7677

Stuck open will act like a vacuum leak and cause a rough idle and stalling

Source: by Larry C at aa1car.com

DTC 332, P1407 and P1408 or detonation; "...We have run into many situations where a code for insufficient flow has been set and the system is functioning correctly. Then it is time to check the EGR passages. There is a Ford Technical Service Bulletin (TSB 96-23-4) that addresses this for some vehicles. This TSB includes: 1992-1995 Crown Victoria 1994-1995 Thunderbird 1991-1995 Town Car 1992-1995 Grand Marquis 1994-1995 Cougar The concerns have to do with intermittent MILs; DTCs 332, P1407 and P1408; or detonation. If exercising the EGR valve does not result in a change in rpm, then the passages may be clogged. There are “U” shaped passages (Fig. 6) under the throttle body adapter that get clogged with carbon. Remove the adapter, clean the passages and reinstall with a new gasket. Just because the vehicle you are working on is not listed in the TSB doesn’t mean you may not have a clogging problem. Make sure you check the passages and be sure they are clean. Just a slight restriction can cause a flow code to be set, and you may still have an rpm drop that can mislead you..."

Source: by tomco-inc.com

==

I'll post for now

Am looking up your Vacuum Diagram at Ford now; it is same as on top of your radiator; so if you have it trace the Vac line back from EGR Valve; will try to come back soon; but may have to roll until Tes morning

 

[miesk5]

your vac diagram ( I picked out the fitst cal code; is like this one @ http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/spubs/default.asp?TYPE=EEFACTS&pageid=spubs_serv_ee&gutsid=spubs_serv_all&nomenu=&YEAR=1995&VEHICLE=Light+Truck&ENGINE=5.8L+-+MFI

Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) Decal,

Vacuum Diagrams & Calibration Parts List for 88 & UP.

On-Line for Free at Ford.

Click "Quick Guides" in left panel;

Scroll to & CLICK VECI Labels

"Provides Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) and a related calibration parts list."

Enter applicable info

(need to know your Calibration number from your B-pillar sticker).

Vacuum Diagram is the same as the one on the core support or hood or air filter cover.

Source: by Ford motorcraftservice.com

so trace the vac lines from EGR Valve to VRESER is the Vacuum Reservoir Can (Tank); and

SOL V:

AIR D is Air Diverter Valve

AIR B is Air Bypass Valve (aka Thermactor Air Bypass TAB)AIR BPV: Air Bypass Valve

Both are next to coil

SOLV: Solenoid Valve

MAP is da Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor

FPR is Fuel Pressure Regulator

CANP is Canister Purge Solenoid Valve

Carbon Can is da Carbon Canister (Charcoal Canister, Vapor Canister, Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister);

Location pic in a 5.8; TAB - Thermactor Air Bypass solenoid valve (AM1); TAD - Thermactor Air Diverter solenoid valve (AM2); miesk5 Note; same location as in my 96 5.0

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/148979

Air Bypass (AirB) & Diverter (AirD) Valve Location Diagram in a 5.8

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/252398

 

[2percent]

Ok so I finally got around to going over my vacuum lines again today. I moved the "coffee can nd noticed the engine sputter. Further inspection lead me to the red and black plastic vacuum lines busted. they both have a 4 in dry rotted section. Should I just slip another vacuum line over these to make a tight connection or what is best way to do it.

 

[miesk5]

ok good!

In a pinch if you have any vac or wind shield washer hose laying around; insert it and see how it runs; I have spare copper tubing that can be used to replace most bad section of vac lines; stores sell in line vac hose connectors, etc.. + below

Vacuum Line (Hose) Sourcing; "...They sell hard plastic line at most parts stores now, in the HELP! section with the rest of the vacuum fittings. Most places have it near the bottom of their display, and it's not too expensive. The ***** is forming the stuff to the shape or routing you need. I've not had the time to test it, but I believe a little heat might allow you to bend 'er into the correct shape. I should email Motormite/Dorman about that...Rubber lines collapse in long runs under low pressure (high vacuum), which is why Ford and most other manufacturers went to plastic lines. They're cheap to make, and form easily. Plus with the polymer they're made from, you can color code the lines for easier assembly line installation..."

Source: by SigEpBlue

Verify hose diameter as stated below before buying 3/16th

Vacuum Line (Hose) Sourcing; "...Use 3/16" vacuum line. I replaced every single one of those hard plastic ones on my 93 BKO and it even cleared a bad vacuum condition with the EGR..."

Source: by NineT3 (he has a 93)

GL!

 

[2percent]

Yeh was thinkin maybe just some rubber vac line with the ID of the plastic OD but may just replace entirely thanks for the help hope this works.. Finally figured out why it died on me on the freeway though..

The owner is ********(ME) ran it out of gas. I really need to fix my fuel gauge.

 

[miesk5]

ok, also, what is wrong w/da gauge?

 

[2percent]

Not sure yet with the move and all most of my tools are in storage so I been counting miles. Gas gauge doesnt work and the oil pressure gauge doesnt work until the truck runs for like 30 min. been this way since I bought it. ANy clues would be appreciated though ill do what I can.