just dies

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ford_302

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got the bronco running (89 351 carb) got my heat strokes done and was playing with the choke today, got it set and the motor warmed up, kicked off the choke and let it idle (550-600) it idled for about five min the just died, started right back up and idled for another fifteen, i shut it off and went to work, got home and went to start it to see if the choke worked, it started, i had to feather the throttle to keep it running but i got it warm,and then it just dies, tried starting it, nothing, fliped the fast idle cam off, it fired and ran for about two min, died, tried the whole prosses all over again and it still wont fire, held the throttle wide open thinkin it might be flooded and nothing, the fuel pump is running and i have gas, put a timing light on it and i have no spark, ***? i just went through this problem, it was a bad pickup coil from the factory, i bought a brand new hei from bronco graveyard, put the new pickup in it and it fired, so im hoping that my new pickup isnt bad. one other thing, my oil pump shaft isnt in straight or somthing cuase the distributor walks a little when the motor is running, it doesnt change the timming but it does concern me, should i be concerned? when i put it in it was striaght and a little loose, i put a soket on the shaft and turned it counter clockwise to prime the motor before the first fire, when i pulled off the socket it was tough coming off and now the shaft is crooked, theres not a lot of pressure on it but enough to hold it against the block. do i need to pull the motor and buy a new oil pump shaft?

 
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ford_302

ford_302

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anyone? i need this thing driving by the first of the year. any ideas would be a HUGE help

 
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ford_302

ford_302

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i put a carb on it to get away from computers, it didnt want to run worth crap in the hills and i can trouble shoot a carb way esier than a computer. and i can modify the motor without messin up the computer. and ignition is a gm hei from bronco graveyard

 

Krafty

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all I can think of is to contact the manufacturer, or find some kind of instructions or trouble shooting list for the ignition system you have.

as long as it has power and is grounded properly it should work, does the system use an ignition controller of any kind? like an old school duraspark II or something like that?

and right on for switching to carb, when I was having my computer problems with my 89 302 I was very close to swapping over to carb. luckily I got a new computer for free so i didn't have to.

one of these days I'm gonna build an electronic free diesel, except for alternator and power cell for lights, and glow plugs for winter.

***** computers.

 
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ford_302

ford_302

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right on...ive always wanted to build a diesel and hokie up a snorkel and drive under water :D /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> and yes my distr. has an ignition modual. the auto parts store gave me a new pickup coil for free so im going to try that along with a new oil pump shaft. if all else fails after that im gonna send that distri. back to the company and tell em to shove it and give me a new one, im keeping the new pick up coil thou lol

 
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AdamDude04

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one of these days I'm gonna build an electronic free diesel, except for alternator and power cell for lights, and glow plugs for winter.
***** computers.
I partly agree with you.. computers are good in advanced ways..

For example, I'd prefer no computer in my Bronco.. as the year of it would just bog it down like it does. However in new cars/trucks these days, it's good. It will tell me every little detail on what is wrong to make fixing the issue that much easier. My new truck told me I had a bad air temp sensor - Had it not, it would have been MUCH harder to figure out my issue.

 

Krafty

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forgive me moderators this is off topic. BUT> the beauty of removing most to all electronics is that the system switches from running based on signals and sensors, to everything being tuned and set with screws and bolts. there isn't the need to pay to have another expensive computer to plug into your computer for it to tell you what had a short circuit. nuts and bolts may break after a long time but they won't fry.

if you remove your injection stuff you go from 100+ wires to- Electric choke if you have it, distributor, coil, ignition controller, starter, solenoid, and alternator. then everything in the cab.

if you go to a mechanical diesel engine setup like the old diesels or even older tractors, you have electronics to starter, alternator, solenoid, and battery. but if you switch that to an air starter. then you can run a ball valve switch into the cab so you only have the battery and alternator for lights and interior comforts.

 

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