yo, good info by my pal, Joe!
Location pic; GREEN Connector pic, next to the Brown Connector Under hood behind air cleaner assy; pic in a 90 & up to 91 Source: by Need4racin (The 90 Bronco, Dean) at imageshack.us
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Pump Runs w/Ignition Switch Off; "...If it stays running with the truck off, then most likely you have a bad fuel pump relay; EEC Relay hanging closed;
If the EEC relay goes bad, it could be sending the signal to the fuel pump relay to turn the fuel pumps on;
One easy test for this is: Without the key in ignition, bump the starter over # the starter relay using a screwdriver. If it is the EEC relay, the truck will start without the key in the ignition..."
Source: by sackman9975 (Scott), Redwagon & miesk5
see Starter (@) Relay Jumping Image @
http://www.broncolinks.com/gallery_images/StarterRelayJumpinin92-96.JPG - Sewiw shows a remote start switch's Jumpers; you can use a small jumper or screwdriver
If you have a multimeter and can use it; here are the diagrams;
Wiring Diagrams & Component Location Diagrams in 86-96 Bronco & Fords; Agree and enter year, make/model, etc.
Source: by Airtex at
http://www.showmetheparts.com/airtexts//
go thru the year, make, model eng type Drill
then select:
Wiring & Component Locations
Engine
Fuel Controls
Part1 1; this will give you color codes of the wiring from IGN Switch to EEC Relay and then on to
EEC and FP Relays
I assume you have to remove NEG cable and prob + batty cables so batty doesn't drain and FP runs forever, right?
So with KEY off..
Put meter in 0 to say 50 volt DC range
Black (-) Meter lead on Good Ground on engine
Re (+) meter lead on the RED/Light Green (R/LG) wire at EEC Relay
re-connect battery
if you have 12 V DC on that RED/Light Green, then
EDIT
Check IGN Cylinder
If no 12 V at that RED/Light Green.
The RED ® wire from that EEC Relay then goes to FP Relay and that carries the 12 volts to close the FP relay
So, with Battery still connected
FP should not be running so far
Connect meter + lead to that Red wire To FP relay
Have someone turn key to start; Should get 12 Volts there
turn off engine & remove key
if 12 volts is still there; then EEC relay is hanging up closed
Hook Batty up
insert key in IGN Cylinder..don't turn it
shake it. violently
if nothing happens, reach down to the switch itslf at the base of the column. Manually push the switch back and forth through the different positions. Push it all the way forward (or down) and see if it will engage the starter. If it does, then your ignition rod is probably bent, which can be remedied quite easily.
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Operational Sequence; "...The computer turns on the fuel pump relay 1. For about 1 second when you first turn the key to ON and 2. when it senses rotation in the dizzy from the pickup. You should test your relays by applying 12 V across the small terminals, listen for the click and check continuity across the large terminals. This will rule out the relays themselves being a problem. Usually they ARE the problem, so hopefully you can stop there. They absolutely HATE moisture so if you are missing your cover Im sure some moisture got inside the relays themselves. The pickup in the distributor can throw a code when it is intermittent or not working. One of many reasons you should check your codes..."
MIESK5 NOTE; from
Ford EVTM; The Control Module (PCM) runs the pump{s} for one second when it receives an ignition- on signal. It also runs the pumps as long as it receives a PTP signal from the Hall-effect devices, it continues pump operation even after the key is released from START. If the PTP signals fall below 120RPM, the control module cuts off the signal to the fuel pump relay or the integrated relay control module. The pump will also run when the terminals of the fuel pump test connector are jumped. the Control module signals the pump when it receives a CRANK signal, and when the Control module gets PIP signals that the engine is running. the pump does not run if the PIP indicates the engine is not running even with ignition ON {except for that first one second}.
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Color Codes for Troubleshooting/Swapping to Bosch Style Relays Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
EEC PWR
30 - Y (battery always 12V)
87 - Bu, DB, R (out to EEC)
85 - Wh/LB, R/LG (12V in from ig.sw.)
86 - Bk/LG, Bk (ground)
FP
30 - Y (battery always 12V)
87 - Pk/Bk, Br, DG/Y (out to inertia sw.)
85 - R (12V in from EEC PWR relay)
86 - T/LG, LB/Or (ground from EEC)
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Here is a long-shot TSB;
No Start, Low State of Battery Charge or Buzzing or Humming Noise from the Fuel Pump after the Engine has been Shut Off Caused by Sticking Fuel Pump Relay TSB 90-18-3 for 83-90 Bronco, Bronco II, Econoline, F-150, F-250, F-350, Ranger & Many Others Source: by Ford via Chilton
