intake full of oil

[rogmit]

OK, THIS SEEMS TO BE AN ONGOING ISSUE. I HAVE A 92 FORD BRONCO W/351 AND IT IS FUEL INJECTED. I CHANGED EDELBORCK HEADS DUE TO AN AUTOZONE ***** UP AND GOT MY HANDS ON SOME GT 40 HEADS AND HAD THEM REBUILT AND INSTALLED THEM AND WAS BURNING OIL. SO, I PULLED THE INTAKE OFF YESTERDAY AND IT WAS FULL OF OIL AND WHEN i PULLED THE LOWER PART OF THE MANIFOLD THEIR WASN'T ANY OIL ON THE INTAKE GASKET EITHER. i CHANGED THE PCV 2 TIMES POSSIBLE THINKING THAT COULD BE THE ISSUE BUT THAT DIDN'T FIX ANYTHING. IT CONTINUED TO BLOW SMOKE WHILE RUNNING. SO, IS THIS A CYLINDER HEAD PROBLEM OR WHAT. THE GUY THAT REBUILT THEM IS A REPUTABLE BUILDER BUT HE SAID HE DIDN'T THINK THEY WERE THE VALVE SEATS. sO ANY IDEAS ON TROUBLESHOOTING THIS BEFORE I YANK THESE CYLINDER HEADS. MY WIFE IS NAGGING FOR ME TO JUST CALL IT QUITS AND GET RID OF THE TRUCK AND i REALLY LIKE MY BRONCO AND i'M NOT READY TO TAKE ON A CAR NOTE.SO, HELP!!!!!!!

 

[Seabronc]

I doubt that it is caused by the PVC valve since it's function is to **** the vapors off the crank case.  This is a stretch, since I can' see or fully visualize what you are saying about the oil, (some pictures might help here).  I'm thinking that the oil return path is somehow restricted inside the block and that the PVC is sucking up excess oil from the heads.  Pull the valve covers and check the oil return ports.  I'd use something I couldn't drop into the crank case to probe down into the return ports.  I can't visualize it being the valve seals since the oil is in the upper manifold.  If the return ports are restricted then there would be excess oil in the heads that should have drained back to the crank case.

Best I can do off the top of my head.

Good luck,

>-

 

[miesk5]

yo Rog,

I recall this disturbing chain-ofoevents! Sorry!

See if you can find another shop to do a few tests;

Oil Leak and Valve Guide Seal Test

The cylinder leakage detector can be used to test for engine oil leaks and to check the valve seals for leakage.

1.Plug all crankcase openings except the one used for connecting the leakage detector.

2. CAUTION: Use extreme caution when pressurizing crankcase. Applying air pressure above specified pressure risks damage to seals, gaskets and core plugs. Under no circumstances should pressure be allowed to exceed 27 kPa (4 psi).

Connect the detector to a crankcase opening (oil level indicator tube (6754) is convenient) and adjust the air pressure to approximately 20 kPa (3 psi).

3.Using a solution of liquid soap and water, brush the solution along the gasket sealing surfaces and bearing seals. Look for bubbles or foam.

4.Remove the spark plugs (12405) and rotate the engine (6007) slowly with a wrench. Check for large amounts of air escaping into the cylinders as each intake and exhaust valve opens.

The spark plugs on the leaking cylinders will probably show deposits of burned oil.

========

Compression Test

1.Make sure oil in crankcase is of the correct viscosity and at proper level and battery (10655) is properly charged. Operate vehicle until engine (6007) is at normal operating temperature. Key off, then remove all spark plugs (12405)

2.Set throttle plates in wide-open position.

3.Install a compression gauge such as Rotunda Compression Tester 164-R0250 or equivalent in No. 1 cylinder spark plug opening.

4.Install an auxiliary starter switch in starting circuit. With key off, and using auxiliary starter switch, crank engine at least five compression strokes and record highest reading. Note the approximate number of compression strokes required to obtain the highest reading.

5.Repeat test on each cylinder, cranking the engine approximately the same number of compression strokes.

READ MORE @ http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj30010.htm

==

Pick other tests at http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjs300l.htm

==

Intake Manifold Vacuum Test

Vacuum Gauge Readings, Interpretation

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj30013.htm

excerpt;

Bring the engine (6007) to normal operating temperature. Connect Rotunda Vacuum/Pressure Tester 164-R0253 or equivalent to the intake manifold (9424). Run the engine at the specified idle speed.

The vacuum gauge should read between -51 and -74 kPa (15 and 22 in-Hg) depending upon the engine condition and the altitude at which the test is performed. SUBTRACT 5.5 kPa FOR EVERY 500 METERS ABOVE SEA LEVEL. SUBTRACT ONE INCH FROM THE SPECIFIED READING FOR EVERY 1,000 FEET OF ELEVATION ABOVE SEA LEVEL.

The reading should be quite steady. It may be necessary to adjust the gauge damper control (where used) if the needle is fluttering rapidly. Adjust damper until needle moves easily without excessive flutter.

Vacuum Gauge Readings, Interpretation

A careful study of the vacuum gauge reading while the engine is idling will help pinpoint trouble areas. Always conduct other appropriate tests before arriving at a final diagnostic decision. Remember that vacuum gauge readings must be interpreted with care.

Most vacuum gauges have a "normal" band indicated on the gauge face.

Take the test and see what it shows; could be to confirm your suspicion; "7.POOR VALVE SEATING: A small but regular downscale flicking can mean one or more valves are not seating."

etc.

GL!

 

[68Mercury250Ranger]

did they machine down the heads at all?  your intake could be sucking the oil too if heads were planed,  messes up the gasket mating surfaces.    plugs fouled with oil too?  

 

[rogmit]

plugs are oil fouled but I just checked and the pvc looks clean like brand new when i pulled it out of valve cover like there is no oil on it

 

[Rons beast]

This sounds like a sealing issue between the heads and the intake.

When the engine is running the intake is in negative pressure, (vacuum). The only proper substance in the manifold should be air.  If oil is in the intake it can only be coming from improper sealing between the manifold and the heads.

If the block was decked, and/ or the heads shaved, (As 68 Merc. stated) the mating surfaces are probably not aligned properly. The manifold has to be angle milled to match the new height and angle of the heads.

If the valve seals were leaking the oil would be burned in the combustion chambers, and not be in the intake. Oil in the intake can only be from being drawn in.

The heads you have may not be compatible with your intake.

Sounds like the problems have manifested themselves since the GT40 heads came into the picture. Perhaps the oil returns don't match as Seabronc eluded to.

Good Luck

 

[rogmit]

Thats probably it,he also opened the ports on the intake to match the heads but it didn't seem to have taken that long because when I was picking the heads up,it didn't take him very long to do that which I thought that took awhile. I got a friend that is a mechanic, I'll ask him to look at it.

 

[rogmit]

TO ALL THOSE THAT RESPONDED TO THIS POST, I FINALLY GOT SOME PICTURES WITH THE HEADS OFF AND I THINK I F****D UP WHEN I INSTALLED THE HEAD GASKETS BECAUSE THERE WERE PORTS THAT WERE OPEN ON ONE SIDE AND NOT ON THE OTHER.

 

[Rons beast]

Hey Rog,

That could be the culprit. Head Gaskets are usually marked with, "this side up" , or "UP" and "Front" or "forward" for the end facing the front of the engine.

Good Luck 

 

[Grizz]

Luckily you didnt blow the gasket so no maching is required.  hope this simple mistake fixes the issue. Like a good carpetner would say check doudble check and then check again.