im sure this is common

[JLasvegas]

ok 351 w stock carb "motorcraft 2bbl" stock everything from carb to oil pan with the exception of edelbrock aircleaner.

so last night im driving the truck for about 5 mins to run and get some food, she is running perfect, then stop and get some gas and after filling up, its hard to start, took about 4 cranks, then it fires up and I let it run for a sec before clearing it out a little with the accelerator, put her in drive and was driving home and thinking to myself "man this thing is running good, seem'd very smooth" even idling at a traffic light, well im parked in front of my garage in gear idiling waiting for the garage to open up and the truck dies " level ground" I go to restart it and it wont start for about 10 minutes, then when it did finally crank it was acting as if it was flooded, it limped into the garage and when I would let it run in there it stunk and was idling poor.

im leaning towards either carb is jacked up or ignition issues.

the temp of the truck wasnt even in the middle of the guage, my truck runs pretty cool even for Vegas

also things to note, upon start up recently it seems to spit out a bit of black sut from the exhaust and then clears out and runs good, and intermittenly after sitting for more than a day it will take awhile to fire as if fuel is being returned back to the tank after driving, but that happens intermittenly

sorry for the long post, just wondering if there are any other avenues to look at before tearing into her

 

[miesk5]

ok 351 w stock carb "motorcraft 2bbl" stock everything from carb to oil pan with the exception of edelbrock aircleaner.so last night im driving the truck for about 5 mins to run and get some food, she is running perfect, then stop and get some gas and after filling up, its hard to start, took about 4 cranks, then it fires up and I let it run for a sec before clearing it out a little with the accelerator, put her in drive and was driving home and thinking to myself "man this thing is running good, seem'd very smooth" even idling at a traffic light, well im parked in front of my garage in gear idiling waiting for the garage to open up and the truck dies " level ground" I go to restart it and it wont start for about 10 minutes, then when it did finally crank it was acting as if it was flooded, it limped into the garage and when I would let it run in there it stunk and was idling poor.

im leaning towards either carb is jacked up or ignition issues.

the temp of the truck wasnt even in the middle of the guage, my truck runs pretty cool even for Vegas

also things to note, upon start up recently it seems to spit out a bit of black sut from the exhaust and then clears out and runs good, and intermittenly after sitting for more than a day it will take awhile to fire as if fuel is being returned back to the tank after driving, but that happens intermittenly

sorry for the long post, just wondering if there are any other avenues to look at before tearing into her

ok, a few thAngs;

Engine cranks but will not start immediately:

The black smoke indicates a too rich condition; so, ck;

air filter

Choke is closed when engine is hot - Find & fix cause for choke staying closed. Look for no heat source, spring in backwards, or something jammed or bent, or gummed up in linkage/carb throat

get real rough. Lots of black smoke.

any backfiring? if so, ck;

Power valve blown out by spitback (backfire) up through carb

Float sunk. (usually caused by spitback up through carb.)

Venting system problem.

I ahve some Ford Carb rebuild article links by folks in my broncolinks.com site under http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=388

Ck for spark (not my best guess here, but...- Duraspark system troubleshooting is shown well in Haynes or Chilton; magnetic pickup in the distributor often fails. And I believe Advanced Auto will test it for free. Also, our pal Seabronco posted wring diagrams for the Durasparh 2 here

Duraspark 2 Removal & Installation by Chilton via AZ

and as our pal, Justshootme wrote; "...On the driver's side connectors by your ignition module, they can get really corroded inside. If you are able to pull them apart without destroying them, some dielectric grease may help with the connections, if they aren't dirty. Don't use a cleaner like Dow Scrubbing Bubble to "purdy" them up. It will melt the plastic..."

 

[JLasvegas]

thank you for the fast response Miesk5 , always a help

I forgot to mention that when I put on this aircleaner I had to use a riser, im not sure if that is binding in the linkage or not but will check, also the lean condition seems to have happened since installing the aircleaner now that I think of it.

when this happend last night, I felt the coil, and checked for spark and it seemed to be fine, coil and dist were not hot nor was the module

im wondering if it could be something as simple as the aircleaner which is a tight fit with the plastic risers keeping the thing choked, it has an electric choke but im not sure if it works properly

 

[miesk5]

thank you for the fast response Miesk5 , always a help
I forgot to mention that when I put on this aircleaner I had to use a riser, im not sure if that is binding in the linkage or not but will check, also the lean condition seems to have happened since installing the aircleaner now that I think of it.

when this happend last night, I felt the coil, and checked for spark and it seemed to be fine, coil and dist were not hot nor was the module

im wondering if it could be something as simple as the aircleaner which is a tight fit with the plastic risers keeping the thing choked, it has an electric choke but im not sure if it works properly

J,

As Nate Pritchard once said, "This could be the problem!"

Now I recall a really tight wing nut on a 53 Ford that crushed the body a bit.

Has it ever back-fired?

 

[JLasvegas]

i have had it back fire once upon acceleration but it was pretty slight and happend only once

was about a week ago

also it wasnt your typical backfire thru the muffler but sounded like a puff from the carb

I dont drive the bronco much only 2x a week and about 5 miles total per week

 

[miesk5]

ok J

Let's start over; since it "spitbacked" a week ago, let's look @ what caused that.. am I correct in assuming that the spitback happened before these other problems began? I think so, so...

Backfiring or spitback up through carb. :

Secondary throttle plates not closing all the way. 7) Fix it. << maybe bec. that air cleaner is too tight?

Vacuum leak. Check for vacuum leak & fix it

Distributor timing not advancing properly. (worn breaker plate, worn shaft, pin hole in diaphram, crack in hose, etc. VACUUM LEAK) Check distributor and all related systems carefully. Replace defective parts

Ignition timing ******** too far. Reset timing.

Next are internals:

Idle jet partly blocked with dirt. 9) Clean out the jet & any other dirt that is in there

Accelerator pump nozzle has dirt in it. Clean out the nozzle tip.

Accelerator pump cup swollen up from contact with bad gas or chemicals. 4) Replace the pump cup

Economizer jet too small or partly blocked. Clean out economizer jet & check the size.

Choke pull-off open too far. Adjust the pull-off tighter.

 

[JLasvegas]

ok I will remove aircleaner and also check for vaccum leaks, I should note that about a month or so ago I pulled the top of the carb off to make sure needle wasnt stuck due to hard starting, I reused the gasket that was on the top of the carb as I couldnt find a replacement, it has not appeared to leak and idle doesnt change when spraying carb cleaner around it.

the truck passed smog with flying colors and has always ran perfect without me touching the distributer or timing so not sure if its just carb related

also seems the black smoke has occured since the carb was taken apart and at the same time was when I installed the aircleaner

sorry if this is confusing, just trying to give all the info I got

 

[miesk5]

I reused the gasket that was on the top of the carb as I couldnt find a replacement, it has not appeared to leak and idle doesnt change when spraying carb cleaner around it.

OK... is this the gasket between carb top and air cleaner assy? if so, see if it snudged down into choke area. (like that word, snudged?)

also seems the black smoke has occured since the carb was taken apart and at the same time was when I installed the aircleaner

the carb was dismantled? or just taken off?

try more carb spray around it.

sorry if this is confusing, just trying to give all the info I got

NP, I just re-installed my instrument cluster and forgot to put the new bulbs in. Smack me upside my 'head please!

 

[JLasvegas]

the gasket I reused is the gasket that the top plate seals against the body of the carb, I took the top off to check the float bowel and reused it, it doesnt appear to be leaking.

i just got home and found that my air cleaner riser was keeping the choke butter fly from moving, so i took it off and decided to start the truck, it still runs rough and when I manually move the throttle on the carb it sounds like its got a poor hiss from the jets, sort of sputtering down the carb, it will idle for about 20-30 seconds and die

strange as it has been so sudden

 

[JLasvegas]

this is the carb thats on the truck, if there is a direct replacement made I would probably sooner just buy a new or remaned unit and install it

I have looked at a few shops and online and cant seem to find a good 2bbl replacement, everything is 4bbl and I dont want to spend the money to replace the intake manifold as well as the carb.

got a quote of 285 to rebuild it, from the carb exchange

 

[Yardape]

You can buy an adapter to go from 2bbl to 4bbl. Cheap under 50 bux

 

[Yardape]

That way when you do want to get a 4bbl intake your all set

 

[miesk5]

ok, I gottcha.

A Ford Motorcraft rebuild kit:

1985 FORD BRONCO 5.8L 351cid V8 2BBL (G) : Fuel/Air : Carburetor Repair Kit

MOTORCRAFT Part # CT1443D {Not Returnable if Package Seal is Broken #FOPZ9A586H}

E4TE-ARA, E5TE-ABA, ZA Carburetor Identification Number (1); H-4 Mfg. Code

$115.79

Pony Carburetor Rebuild $239.50 Ford/Motorcraft 2150

Carburetor Identification and Location of Engineering Numbers

Carb Diagrams w/parts break-out

I've rebuilt a few back in da day, but I understand you need to get er done quickly at a lower $ amount.

Guess you're going to check/clean or replace plugs.

 

[JLasvegas]

Yea Im going to go ahead and replace the plugs while im at it, I will spend some time making sure its not a vaccum leak before taking the carb off, I also have yet to check the fuel filter, it seems odd that it was driving perfect and then stalled as I waited for the garage to open and then wouldnt start and acted as if it was flooded, it will start right now with pedal pushed to the floor or pumping it

 

[Don P]

You said you just gassed up befor it started, could it be water in the gas? that happened to me once. Don

 

[JLasvegas]

went and replaced the carb and intake, also want to thank many of the members here for pointing out that my hard starting issue was a weak mechanical fuel pump that worked fine when running but let the gas seep all the way back to the tank when sitting.

also installed a new ignition system because my old distributor wouldnt work with my new carb because my old distributor did not have vacuum advance