Ignition switch goes out and now starter solendoid

[InfiniteGrade]

Okay, the other day I went to go to work and when I turned the ignition key nothing happened at all. No clicks, no attempts, nothing. So I get a press button switch for the mean time to bypass the ignition switch and hook it up as shown below (sorry I don't have a real picture). The *'s are just to keep it spaced out:

|_|_4_

||***|/ 3

||***|

||____|\ 2

| | 1

|_______

||******|

||*Batt**|

||______| Radiator

_______________________

The part with the 1 2 3 4 is the solenoid mounted to the wall (I have the 5.8w BTW). Using the switch, I jumped points 1 and 2. As a side note, there's a broken wire laying very close to the solenoid with a terminal on post 1 that has a broken wire hanging from it. The wire is so corroded (even when I strip it back, that I can't get it to make any contact with the terminal to see if it's why the ignition doesn't work. This wire has a "20GA Fuseable Link" on it.

In any case, the switch worked great for a few days. I'd turn the ignition to "on" and press the button and away I'd go. But last night my wife was driving it and it wouldn't work any more. Just a whirring noise. I get it towed and when it's home I try it and the whirring noise is coming from the solenoid.

If the broken wire isn't the problem with the ignition switch, what can cause both of these to go out so close in time to each other? Am I missing something else? I don't want to replace them only to have them fail again.

Also, I have access to this solenoid at work and am hoping that I can use it instead of buying on. Granted, it has two of the large posts and one small one (versus two that's in vehicle now) but one of the posts doesn't have anything attached to it. If anyone has the specs or knows where to find them can you either give them to me or let me know if this solenoid will work:

Intermittent Duty Solenoid

Special Applications: Universal

Insulated/Grounded: Grounded

NO/NC: Normally Open

Min Qty: No

Circuitry: SPST

Voltage Rating: 12V

Continuous Rating: Not Applicable: intermittent

Maxiumum Current, Make: 750A

Maxiumum Current, Break: 100A

Intermittent Time: 10sec. On-20

min. Off

Breather Hole: No

It LOOKS identical to the one in there other than the posts. Thanks for the help!

 

[Seabronc]

It would help if you add your truck vitals to your signature. However, the solinoid specifications sound good for the application. Just don't exceed the ON spec very often. Perhaps you should troubleshoot the reason your ignitionswitch doesn't work. It is most likely the neutral safety switch.

 

[InfiniteGrade]

It would help if you add your truck vitals to your signature.  However, the solinoid specifications sound good for the application.  Just don't exceed the ON spec very often.  Perhaps you should troubleshoot the reason your ignitionswitch doesn't work.  It is most likely the neutral safety switch.

33431[/snapback]

​

Sorry, it's an '86 with the 5.8w H.O.

The ON spec? I have the specs from a printout but am not too familiar with them. So don't hold it down longer than 20 seconds?

As an update, I jumped the two outer posts and thus completed the circuit for the starter and it gave a little struggle, made a funny noise, and then that was it. The battery is a couple days old and the alternator is supposed to be new.

I'll take a look at the NSS.

 

[Seabronc]

You need to go at this in an orderly manner. So first, fix what you can see that is obviously wrong, like the fusable link.

First, clean all the connections on both sides of the battery including the (-) side (ground connection to the engine block). Check that the cables are in good condition and that the terminals are not corroded.

Then take a voltmeter and have someone turn the ignition key and check for 12V at the small terminal on the starter solinoid. If there is no 12V then there is a problem in the ignition switch path, probably the neutral safety switch. If that is ok, the solinoid should work and complete the circuit to the starter. If the starter solinoid doesn't click in, make sure the metal base has good contact with the fender, (this is the ground side of the solinoid). If the solinoid still doesn't work, change it. Try starting again, and check the voltage at the solinoid terminal to the starter for 12V. If the battery has run down, it will be less than 12V, get the battery charged, (ignore the fact that it is a new battery). If it is 12V then the starter is most likely bad.

diagram attached.

Good luck,

>-

 

[InfiniteGrade]

You need to go at this in an orderly manner.

 

[Seabronc]

Thanks for the diagram.