Idler pulley removal

[96 bronc]

Have a 96 Bronco 5.8 that the idler pulley froze up and trashed the serpentine belt. Have the parts to fix but trying to find a tool to remove the bolt. It appears to require an internal rectangular shaped tool, not an internal star or hex. Any help out there?

 

[miesk5]

yo,

Idler-Tensioner Replacement in a 96 5.8

Source: by stan the man

Reason for operation:

Seized tensioner pulley bearing.

Coming to a stop at a red light I heard this *snap* and then a loud constant squeal coming from my engine bay. Luckily, I was only a couple of blocks from my house, so I finished the drive with a ear piercing noise coming from the front of the truck. Once home I popped the hood and found this, luckily my serpentine belt didn't shred

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d26/drbubble33/How%20To/IMG_2645.jpg

On to the replacement parts... Made a quick run (on my bicycle) to the parts store to pick up a set of tamper-proof torx bits (works with hard top bolts), a new pulley assembly, and a new serpentine belt.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d26/drbubble33/How%20To/IMG_2652.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d26/drbubble33/How%20To/IMG_2641.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d26/drbubble33/How%20To/IMG_2638.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d26/drbubble33/How%20To/IMG_2639.jpg

Time to remove the broken/seized pulley tensioner. I replaced the whole assembly, just because I like new parts and I didnt want to deal with removing a seized/crooked/broken pulley.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d26/drbubble33/How%20To/IMG_2643.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d26/drbubble33/How%20To/IMG_2647.jpg

First step is to remove the negative battery cable from the battery. Although its likely the engine wouldn't accidently crank while your hands are in the fan area, it could happen and would be ugly. Do us all a favor and disconnect the battery before starting this job.

Second step is to remove the serpentine belt from all of the pulleys. Take a 15mm socket and push the pulley assembly to the passenger side of the truck. This nut does not twist or turn but rather is used to release tension on the spring, allowing the belt to slide off.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d26/drbubble33/How%20To/IMG_2648.jpg

Now that the serpentine belt is off, remove the tensioner pulley/assembly with a T50 bit. Be careful with your hands because the bolt might all of a sudden release, cause your hand to smash into the battery (I speak from experience).

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d26/drbubble33/How%20To/IMG_2654.jpg

This is what it should look like after the assembly is out:

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d26/drbubble33/How%20To/IMG_2656.jpg

Old vs. New:

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d26/drbubble33/How%20To/IMG_2658.jpg

Now to install the new parts, it is important that you put the spring of the tensioner over this lip.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d26/drbubble33/How%20To/IMG_2660.jpg

Put the T50 torx bit back in and torque down, it should look like this:

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d26/drbubble33/How%20To/IMG_2661.jpg

If you are going to install a new belt, now is the time. If you're old belt is in good shape slide that puppy back into place. Pull the 15mm bolt on the tensioner towards the drivers side and get the belt on ALL pulleys. This may take some time if since you will only have one hand to move the belt around. Just a reminder on the belt; smooth side to smooth pulley, ribbed side to ribbed pulleys

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d26/drbubble33/How%20To/IMG_2667.jpg

-

comments;

by Joes93Bronco

Also a good idea to take a wire brush to the grooves on your pulleys and get em clean and free of any crap. ESPECIALLY if any one makes the mistake of using belt dressing on it. I also used brake clean on em after brushing em to make sure they were clean.

GOOD call on the Gatorback. Best belt out there..

..

by shadofax

As Stan mentioned I had no issue either....start it by hand, make sure the little metal tab is behind the little bracket blocker like in Stan's picture, hand tighten till you can no longer, finish with wrench I believe it was to 25ft lbs. (50mm torx required) recheck in a week or so to make sure it has not loosened. It should tighten down straight on, and once tight it will be in alighnment with the pulley. Put belt back on per the proper routing and use of the 15mm socket on the tensioner, and you're done. make sure belt is in all the grooves, routed proper, feel tension on it, then go ahead and start motor.

-===

ALSO;

Pulley & Idler Rebuild in a 96

Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at http://4x4preservation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=423

GL!

 

[BroncoJoe19]

Yo Miesk5, could you give a little more detail? /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

I didn't read through it all, but I assume that it also mentioned that it is probably a left hand threaded bolt, meaning that you have to turn it clockwise to loosen it.

 

[miesk5]

yo Joe!

LTNS, howz thangs buddy?

Tensioner bolt is left-hand (reverse) thread

idler pulley bolt is a normal right-handed thread

thanks!

 

[BroncoJoe19]

I've been hanging at another site, and bouncing some people over here where they could get specific info.

I'm glad to see that you are still active here.

I miss you guys, but things have been hectic, and there are only so many hours in the day.

During and shortly after the last snow storm, I replaced my alternator, wiper motor, and during the floods here in NJ the starter.

Boy what a difference a new starter makes. She'd been slow to crank for as long as I owned her. I thought maybe the old gal had a lot of compression. Nope... aging starter. Now... she starts up like an electric car. LOL turn the key and she's running. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />