How do I remove this bolt?

[winks]

In order to get further along with my lift I have to get this part off on each beam to get to my trailing arms. This post threads into a nut welded onto the beam (cannot get to) and the springs and sway bars thread onto the top portion. The welded nut inside the beamhas a crapload of dirt and rust on it, and I can't get to it. I have soaked the part in PB Blaster (penetrant) and heated up the nut and surrounding area with a torch, but nothing has worked yet. I do not know of a socket big enough that can fit this piece, it would have to be a 1-1/8" socket that's 3-4" deep. The wrench that I tried using (with a 3' piece of conduit on the end) only strips the bolt, and the largest pipe wrench I have doesn't allow me enough torque to move the bolt, nor has the ability to fit the conduit.

Does anyone know where I can pick up a deep socket deep enough for this application?



Stuck post



My deep socket next to stuck post

*Note: socket only clears up to the chamfer, roughly 2"



Welded on nut that I cannot get to

Alternatives:

1: Cut the bolt to a point where I can get my socket on there and torque it off with the conduit. Then go to Ford and hope I can get a replacement bolt.

Pros: part comes off, everything goes back into place.

Cons: may not be too easy to find the part and I'll have to search around.

2: Cut the bolt to a point where I can get my socket on there and torque it off with the conduit. Leave the sway bar off because it won't fit on the cut up stud and put the rest of it back together.

Pros: part comes off, more articulation without the sway bar

Cons: no sway bar makes driving a full-size truck at road speeds a bit more difficult.

3: Use somebody else's idea and go from there. Hopefully somebody will have a better idea or a place to get the deep socket that I need.

 

[89Bronco58]

plasma cutter......thats says it all lol

 

[firelt90bronco]

How about a ratcheting wrench? Or put a nut cracker on the nut.

 

[winks]

How about a ratcheting wrench? Or put a nut cracker on the nut.

A ratcheting wrench wouldn't give me enough torque, this thing is really on there. What's a nut cracker?

Edit: it would also be a big expense to pick up a ratcheting wrench that size. I was told to pick up a box end wrench and cut it down so I could fit my 3' piece of conduit onto it. I may try that tonight.

 

[Bully Bob]

That sounds like the visable nut on that stud is actually a stop nut & doesn't actually turn on the stud.....the turning would take place at/out of the welded on nut directly underneath...correct..?

If so, then some cleaning is due.

Various strengths of muratic acid & water may help. A long handle brush may get you into the welded nut area. then use a squeeze bottle to rinse.

I use a dremmel/wire wheel to clean nuts, bolts & threads...then PB blast.

One could drill the square hole out of the socket & weld another socket on top to allow clearance.

HTH

B

 

[winks]

That sounds like the visable nut on that stud is actually a stop nut & doesn't actually turn on the stud.....the turning would take place at/out of the welded on nut directly underneath...correct..?

Correct. where can I find muratic acid?

 

[BLADE262US]

Its normal for that bolt to get stuck in there . More heat is the answer and an open end wrench so you can get ahold of it with enough heat you probably wont need a cheater bar , Do you have a rosebud for your torch ? That will do it guarenteed . /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[Bully Bob]

---"Correct. where can I find muratic acid?"---

Any hardware store will have it. (swimming pool acid)

--BUT--- be careful,....it's very dangerous...follow the directions & try not to breath the fumes.

You can add acid to water supply but not the other way around or it can Flash or explode.

May want to test on old pieces of metal. Muratic will actually desolve metal.

I wouldn't use in an inclosed area.....have plenty of air flow.

 

[Justshootme84]

I'm with Blade on this one. IT took 2 -days to remove those studs on my 84 when I lifted it. Many of those bolts on the suspension have Loctite from the factory, and applying heat will loosen the bond. AN impact wrrench and socket wouldn't touch this one at 200 psi, but it finally came loose after more heat and a 3/4" drive socket set. You can use a box-end wrench, and find a larger piece od conduit/cheater bar to fit over the wrench. A deeper impact socket will cost about $8. I just bought a 1-1/16" for my F-350 lug nuts, JSM84

 

[wtfdissux]

i agree get out the torch and get it glowing ren hot then a GOOD wrench not made in china for example should turn it with a cheater if needed if you have access to a snap-on dealer they now have a set that uses an air hammer jig to turn a wrench head

 

[firelt90bronco]

A nutcracker should do the job and won't require heat. heres what it looks like.

 

[winks]

I got the driver side out yesterday with a little bit of heat, and alot of torque. The passenger side nut broke at the weld, so I have to find somebody to weld it back up to the beam before I can continue.

 

[BLADE262US]

firelt90bronco its not a nut it is a bolt with a stud sticking out of the top of it just like the one main bearing bolt that holds the support for the oil pump pickup tube . On the inside of the TTB arm there is a threaded insert welded to the inside of the beam if you break those welds loose your really in for some work thenm you have to torch it off and find a nut the right size and weld it back in the beam or just use the nut but it will be an adventure everytime you have to mess with it . /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[winks]

firelt90bronco its not a nut it is a bolt with a stud sticking out of the top of it just like the one main bearing bolt that holds the support for the oil pump pickup tube . On the inside of the TTB arm there is a threaded insert welded to the inside of the beam if you break those welds loose your really in for some work thenm you have to torch it off and find a nut the right size and weld it back in the beam or just use the nut but it will be an adventure everytime you have to mess with it . /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

My buddy is going to try to arc weld it back on for me. Hopefully tacking it on in a few spots will make it strong enough to remove the bolt.

 

[Justbust1n]

why dont you just get a sawls all and cut off sbout an inch of the ***** just enought for it to fit ? that would be the easiest thing to do

 

[wtfdissux]

trying to understand this he's trying to remove the stud but why there has to be an easier way as no one here knows how to deal with it back track and see why he wants it out bet you dont need to remove it and either way he prob.fixed it already look at the dates on the posts

 

[1982 bronco lifter]

take a plasma cutter and cut the top of the post and then take the bolt and loosen the nut far enought to get under the bolt with a plasma and cut the bolt under the head.

 

[Ziggy]

Why don't you double nut the stud? If you tight both nuts up just right, you may be able to get the socket on over both nuts.

 

[BLADE262US]

Guys Guys its not really a nut its a threaded insert that is welded inside the TTB arm you can barely get at the damn thing . The bolt hes trying to get out is a bolt with threads coming out of both ends of it . You take your ttb arm slide the radius arm over it and this is the top bolt that holds the radius arm to the ttb arm , The threads sticking out of the top are for the coil spring retainer nut to go on . What has happened to him is the welded insert inside the ttb arm has come loose so it keeps spinning , very hard to get at really only thing to do is reach in there with a welder and reattach it or torch it off and start over , Have had this happen and did just that torched it off then welded a nut back on the inside of the tube which you can do once completely dissasembled . And yeah by the date I hope hes completed this by now /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />