Holley 4 barrel

[johnnyreb]

I bought a new Holley 4 barrel straight from Holley. Has anyone had any trouble with the new carbs--like not being adjusted from the factory? I have a new tank--line and mechanical fuel pump. It pumping gas good. Looking down the carbeurator throat as you pump the gas---none is coming out the noozles. You can pump it and still no gas. You can pour some gas in it from a can and it will start. I took the front bowl off and it was clean and the float looked level. Any suggestions?

 

[johnnyreb]

I bought a new Holley 4 barrel straight from Holley. Has anyone had any trouble with the new carbs--like not being adjusted from the factory? I have a new tank--line and mechanical fuel pump. It pumping gas good. Looking down the carbeurator throat as you pump the gas---none is coming out the noozles. You can pump it and still no gas. You can pour some gas in it from a can and it will start. I took the front bowl off and it was clean and the float looked level. Any suggestions?

Some told me Holley is troubles. I had a 650 dp and I had to adjust the float in it all the time and some says the same way with the new ones. It has PERFORMANCE CARBEURATOR on it,but with a vaccum to work the back barrels--I don,t think so.

 

[goodO1boydws]

Holley street carbs are GREAT carbs-they have near infinite adjustability and several useful accessories.


If no gas is coming out of the nozzles when teh linkage is actuated ON A NEW CARB, the odds are very good that teh float bowl is empty. THAT usually happens when the INLET NEEDLE is stuck in the closed (down) position, preventing gas from entering the float bowl.

 

[miesk5]

Yo Johnny,
Is it a 4160
If so, see 4160 Installation, Ford & other makes
Source: by holley.com

Or a Holley 390 cfm,if so see https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/clifford-efi-manfolds-and-390-holley-installed.98791/

Or
Holley 4180C

Service manual, part numbers, illustrations, and pictures for the Holley 4180C as used on the 1983, 1984, 1985, and 1986 Ford pickups with the 5.8L ** and 460

 

[Tiha]

When you took the front bowl off, was there any gas in it?

I take the float level ***** out of the side of the bowl and back the float adjustment off until fuel is coming out. Just to make sure I am getting fuel in the bowl.

You just never know until you know.

 

[johnnyreb]

When you took the front bowl off, was there any gas in it?

I take the float level ***** out of the side of the bowl and back the float adjustment off until fuel is coming out. Just to make sure I am getting fuel in the bowl.

You just never know until you know.

Thanks guys. I just went out and adjusted the float and now I am getting gas through the knozzle and checked the float level and seems ok now. A little gas got on the intake. I wiped it of and let it evaporate and the start it. Don,t need another fire. I,m waiting to get my fir extinguisher charged. The last couple times I asked about it. Their excuse was they been busy. I hear it again--I,ll take it some where else. Ask my neighbor--he,s a volunteer fireman. AGAIN--THANKS TO ALL OF YOU.-Yes Tiha their was some gas came out. It must have been adjusted too low.

 

[Motech]

I've always had to make significant adjustments to Holley 4150/4160 series out of the box for optimal performance.

Once float height is established through window, followed by choke settings, base idle air/fuel ratio, ignition timing and curb idle, there always seems to be a flat spot or hesitation that needs to be rectified.

Usually that can be addressed with accelerator pump link adjustment, but sometimes I'll need to move the pump cam over a space, readjust the link again and fiddle with it all until it transitions just right.

Once dialed in, they're stellar for a very long time. But I can honestly say I've never had a modular Holley perform impeccably right out the box.

Now Holley Street Demon carburetors are far and away the most cooperative out of the box. To date, three installed, none needed anything beyond base a/f ratio and curb idle.

 

[johnnyreb]

Yo Johnny,
Is it a 4160
If so, see 4160 Installation, Ford & other makes
Source: by holley.com

Or a Holley 390 cfm,if so see https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/clifford-efi-manfolds-and-390-holley-installed.98791/

Or
Holley 4180C

Service manual, part numbers, illustrations, and pictures for the Holley 4180C as used on the 1983, 1984, 1985, and 1986 Ford pickups with the 5.8L ** and 460

I've always had to make significant adjustments to Holley 4150/4160 series out of the box for optimal performance.

Once float height is established through window, followed by choke settings, base idle air/fuel ratio, ignition timing and curb idle, there always seems to be a flat spot or hesitation that needs to be rectified.

Usually that can be addressed with accelerator pump link adjustment, but sometimes I'll need to move the pump cam over a space, readjust the link again and fiddle with it all until it transitions just right.

Once dialed in, they're stellar for a very long time. But I can honestly say I've never had a modular Holley perform impeccably right out the box.

Now Holley Street Demon carburetors are far and away the most cooperative out of the box. To date, three installed, none needed anything beyond base a/f ratio and curb idle.

The only information of what its says about the carb is number p/n 0-80457s Street Warrior. Its been raining off and on hear today. Hopefully I,ll get a chance to mess with it tomorrow. Thanks guys.

 

[Motech]

The only information of what its says about the carb is number p/n 0-80457s Street Warrior. Its been raining off and on hear today. Hopefully I,ll get a chance to mess with it tomorrow. Thanks guys.

That 80457S is an aluminium 4160 series, 600 CFM w/ electric choke. It's a decent universal 4-barrel, the modern day equivalent of the good old 1850 series.

It should be considered a replacement for stock carburetors, and will work well with headers too.

As long as your engine can make minimum 15 in/hg of idle vacuum, it should be fine. Any much lower, whether by lumpy cam or tired engine, and your power valve may open too soon, causing some rich bogging on mild acceleration with worn engine, or ragged idle quality with big cam.

the odds are very good that teh float bowl is empty. THAT usually happens when the INLET NEEDLE is stuck in the closed (down) position, preventing gas from entering the float bowl.

I agree 100%. Sometimes they take a little extra oomph to pop the needle clear.

I took the front bowl off and it was clean and the float looked level. Any suggestions?

I just went out and adjusted the float and now I am getting gas through the knozzle and checked the float level and seems ok now.

I would caution you here that restored fuel level was probably caused by the needle freeing up when you removed the bowl, and not by your float adjustment. I'm guessing, since you said it was pretty level
you now have it set too high.

Recommend you readjustt the float for a lower level before next startup, then remove the threaded sight plug and readjust it running to get the level to the bottom edge of that window.

These carbs can be sensitive to float levels, but once it's set, it's usually good to go forever.

 

[johnnyreb]

That 80457S is an aluminium 4160 series, 600 CFM w/ electric choke. It's a decent universal 4-barrel, the modern day equivalent of the good old 1850 series.

It should be considered a replacement for stock carburetors, and will work well with headers too.

As long as your engine can make minimum 15 in/hg of idle vacuum, it should be fine. Any much lower, whether by lumpy cam or tired engine, and your power valve may open too soon, causing some rich bogging on mild acceleration with worn engine, or ragged idle quality with big cam.



I agree 100%. Sometimes they take a little extra oomph to pop the needle clear.



I would caution you here that restored fuel level was probably caused by the needle freeing up when you removed the bowl, and not by your float adjustment. I'm guessing, since you said it was pretty level
you now have it set too high.

Recommend you readjustt the float for a lower level before next startup, then remove the threaded sight plug and readjust it running to get the level to the bottom edge of that window.

These carbs can be sensitive to float levels, but once it's set, it's usually good to go forever.

Well at idel its say 20.

 

[johnnyreb]

Well at idel its say 20. I also read where some of these 4 barrel . Will not work with the adapter 2 barrel--I,m still reading if this one will or not. Also still looking for aluminum intake.

 

[Motech]

You're adapting to a 2bbl intake?
Yeah, definitely invest in a dual plane 4bbl intake.

 

[johnnyreb]

Thanks Motech

You're adapting to a 2bbl intake?
Yeah, definitely invest in a dual plane 4bbl intake.

I been looking for one,but not gonna pay $500 and some dollars for one. I might have to go with a cast one--oh I feel my back hurting now. If I have to go with a cast one. I,ll use my hoist to take the 2 barrel out and put the 4 barrel in. They are a pain to keep the front and rear gaskets in place--even siliconed on. I,ll just have to take my time and I,ll get it on. Thanks to all for your advise and helping out.

 

[Motech]

I been looking for one,but not gonna pay $500 and some dollars for one. I might have to go with a cast one--oh I feel my back hurting now.

No kidding!

Is this an FE or M block?

 

[johnnyreb]

No kidding!

Is this an FE or M block?

FE---I think I,ll just rebuild a 2 barrel--I must have a dozen out in the building. I have alot of parts that should do about 4 or 5.

 

[johnnyreb]

FE---I think I,ll just rebuild a 2 barrel--I must have a dozen out in the building. I have alot of parts that should do about 4 or 5.

390 motor out of a 74 Ford

 

[Motech]

Old Motorcraft 2bbl like this one?



Those are the most cooperative and bullet-proof carbs out there. IMO, freshen one of those up and it will run better than adapting that 4bbl to your current intake.

 

[johnnyreb]

Old Motorcraft 2bbl like this one?

View attachment 31360

Those are the most cooperative and bullet-proof carbs out there. IMO, freshen one of those up and it will run better than adapting that 4bbl to your current intake.

Yes that,s what I,m gonna do. I have quite a few of them and new parts to re-build one. Costs alot less then buying a new 4 barrel intake. I looked in one place of my parts and they were all small block. I can use the 4 barrel on my 66 Fairlane GT.