maybe ur throttle position sensor cuz mine u have to hit the pedal one time to get it to rev back down so i put a scanner on it and it said my throttle position sensor was bad i ordered on and its on the way i paid like 40$
Good info ilystbronco !
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Try a Self Test for Trouble Codes;
Self Test & Connector Location & pics, Bronco & Ford BEST PROCESS WITH DIAGRAMS! Source: by Ryan M
also; The TPS is located at the end of the throttle shaft on the throttle body. Using the TPS voltage signal the EEC determines fuel delivery based on throttle position. A bad TPS can be the cause of bad idle, which is caused by the injector pulse fluctuating. Some loss in performance can also be expected.
Some possible TPS Codes:
Code 23 KOEO & KOER is present when the EEC detects a TPS problem - Closed throttle TPS voltage higher or lower than expected.
Code 53 KOEO - TPS circuit has intermittently failed above maximum 4.5 volts
Code 63 KOEO - TPS circuit below minimum 0.6 volts - TPS senor did not exceed 25% rotation during Dynamic Response Test
Code 73 KOER - TPS senor did not exceed 25% rotation during Dynamic Response Test (user error). Never seen anyone describe this Dynamic Test in good detail using the jumoer method, but the MultiMeter test is used (if you don't have a nice/cheap Code Reader..GET IT FOR under $20.00 now at stores..much cheaper than paying $$$ to those so-called mechanics) as described below by Scott G
"GOOSE TEST (also called a Dynamic Rresponse Test) using a MultiMeter; test is output during an engine running test. To do the KOER test, set the car up as above. Then with the STI/signal return jumper disconnected, start up and run it at 2000 RPM or so for two minutes, to thoroughly warm up the EGO sensors and get everything stable. Shut down, reconnect the jumper, and immediately restart, and the EEC-IV will go into the KOER test. Several things will happen. The first is that you'll get the engine ID code- 2 pulses for a 4-cylinder, 3 pulses for a 6, and 4 for a V8. Then the EEC-IV will begin playing with its actuators and sensors, trying to fool them into going to the extremes of their ranges. During this interval the car will run very poorly at times- it may go rich, lean, stumble, buck, and do all manner of unpleasant things. This will last from 6 to 20 seconds. After this interval, the motor will smooth out and begin an even idle. You will then see a single flash or sweep of the needle. This is the Dynamic Response code, which is your cue. After this code, you have 10 seconds to snap the throttle wide open, just long enough to get above 2000 RPM. Once the engine gets above 2000 RPM (it won't take long at WOT with no load!), release the throttle, and let the engine go back to idle. This part is lovingly called the "goose test". The EEC-IV needs to see what happens at high throttle settings to make sure all of its sensors and actuators work properly, so you get to help out by goosing it. This test will last from 4-15 seconds. The goose test is followed by fast codes (which only those of us stuck with a meter will be able to see, and we can't do anything with them), followed by the KOER on-demand codes exactly as above. If all was well, you'll get 11-11. If you didn't goose it enough, you'll get a 77 and get to do it over again. At this point you can optionally run the SEFI or Cylinder Balance test. If you have an '87 or later, lightly tap the throttle (it only takes a small movement) WOT), and release it. Owners of '86s will have to go WOT briefly. After a little while, the EEC-IV will begin cutting the injector to each cylinder in turn, and looking for a drop in RPM. If there is no drop associated with any individual cylinder, then there is some problem there (that may or may not be related to the injection system- you could have a valve problem, or a fouled plug, or a shop towel stuck in the intake runner, and get the same effect). This test takes about 90 seconds. If a cylinder is found by this test to be weak, a single-digit code will be flashed telling you which one (1-8). If all is well, the code will be 9. If it gives you a 77, it got confused (perhaps you bumped the throttle) and you need to start over and rerun the test. '87 and later cars can then rerun the SEFI test after it finished, again by just tickling the throttle (saves having to go back through the whole KOER test). It also relaxes the criteria for "fail" with each retest, so if one cylinder fails the first time but passes the second, it's only a little weak- whereas if it fails 3 times in a row, it's profoundly dead. Those of us with '86s have to go back to Square 1 to rerun, and we don't get this progression of thresholds to help us troubleshoot.
Source: by Scott Griffith for the Nothern California Shelby Club newsletter, and run in a slightly edited form on the Mustangs Mailing list vis corral.net "
Sensor Safe carb cleaner or TB cleaner can be used to clean the sensor. If the problem persist replace it.
Also....A technician that is
unfamiliar with the EEC Self-Test can mistakenly believe that continuous Memory codes are not present when they really are. He may run KOER Self-Test and get a pass code (111) and not realize that KOEO Self-Test must be run to receive any Continuous Memory codes. He may run KOEO Self-Test while counting MIL flashes and misinterpret the repeated hard fault pass code (111) to mean that Continuous Memory does not contain any codes.
Source: by Ford via miesk5
Found that some Shops don't know this crap and then charge you those big $ and then can't find the problem.
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