help. im lost

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rostheiceman

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so if you have read my last post you would know my truck wouldnt star got that fixed so i went to time it and i am haveing a few porblums. i have it at tdcput my dizzy in set it start it and it runs rough for about 1 min and dies it will start right back up but die out. advanceing and retarding does not help so i was talking to a friend and he sead it sounds like i have it fireing on the wrong stroke. i dont know any one with a idea

 

BroncoJoe19

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Ros,

I don't know exactly where you are with this truck right now.

So it starts... runs rough and dies out, almost immediately?

Did you check your vacuum lines?

Do you know how to check the integrity of vacuum without a running engine?

Did you check your grounds and battery cables?

Does it run on starting fluid?

What else can you tell us?

 

vincendebbie

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so if you have read my last post you would know my truck wouldnt star got that fixed so i went to time it and i am haveing a few porblums. i have it at tdcput my dizzy in set it start it and it runs rough for about 1 min and dies it will start right back up but die out. advanceing and retarding does not help so i was talking to a friend and he sead it sounds like i have it fireing on the wrong stroke. i dont know any one with a idea

If you are running a 302 there are two different firing orders for that motor. I don't have my shop manual here but you can find out usually by calling the local dealer and they will either let you talk to a tech or find out for you. If you have the wrong firing order it will run like crap for a min or so then stall out and it will start back up. This is usually a sign of the wrong firing order. --Vince

 

Roadkill

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Yes, Vincendebbie is right. A pair of mismatched plugwires can do exactly what you describe. See if this helps you out:

tune-up-data.jpg

Edit:

Sorry, that's too small to read. This thumbnail is a link to a much larger version:

tune-up-data.jpg

 
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miesk5

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OK, didn't you write this in August?

"...the motor is a fresh rebuild new everything coil, ignition module, distributer, plugs and wires. the other day i was puling in to a friends yard and it just shut off, so the only thing that had not been changed was the module so i got a new one and it still wont start and yes its getting fuel..."

and later you wrote that the builder set-it up "180 degrees OUT" did you ever call him and ask why it is "180 degrees out"?

We also asked you for a description or pic of that ignition module you changed so we can give you the right troubleshooting info for that specific ignition and how to use a Voltmeter (for resistance and voltage checks) instead of a trouble light to trouble shoot the system.

1, 2 & 3 Overview & Schematics "In 1974, Ford/Mercury began to use breakerless ignition systems. The first of these electronic ignition systems was originally just referred to as the breakerless ignition system, but later, in 1977, it became known as Duraspark. The Duraspark I system, and the next version, Duraspark II were nearly identical in operation, and virtually identical in appearance. All Duraspark II systems are easily identified by having a two-piece, flat topped distributor cap. Duraspark I was discontinued after the 1981 model year In 1980, the new Duraspark III system was introduced..." Source: by Chilton via AutoZone.com READ MORE THERE..

Now what color is the Grommet (also called a strain relief bushing) on the Ignition Module? and is it the same color as what you had in there before you changed it?

And our Pal Seabronc has posted your year Ign Sys Schematic from a FORD ETM here recently; it may apply to your Bronco if the builder did not swap it out for another ersion...etc.

 
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rostheiceman

rostheiceman

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ok the motor was turn 180 and the dizzy was turn 180 out so thats why it seemed like it was bulit 180 out when in fact it was bulit right the gromet is blue same as the one i took out.

whats the order on the cap so i can check that

no vacuum leaks grounds are good

to day is when i found the 180 porb and fixed it so everything set right i started it and it ran for about 5mins and shut of if its wires crossed i need the can order to trace it thanx for all the help guys this thing is about to drive me crazy

 

Roadkill

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The black circle is number 1, the rest go in the same sequence as the printed fireing order in the direction of the arrow. Also, on most caps there is a "1" or some other indicator where the number one wire goes.

 
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Yardape

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ok the motor was turn 180 and the dizzy was turn 180 out so thats why it seemed like it was bulit 180 out when in fact it was bulit right the gromet is blue same as the one i took out.
whats the order on the cap so i can check that

no vacuum leaks grounds are good

to day is when i found the 180 porb and fixed it so everything set right i started it and it ran for about 5mins and shut of if its wires crossed i need the can order to trace it thanx for all the help guys this thing is about to drive me crazy
Are you asking for the 302 firing order? If yes I know the one for the non-H.O. 5.0, Its 15426378, if its ** I'll have look it up for you. (its the same as 351w if someone knows it offhand)

 

Yardape

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here I looked it up anyway, The 302 ** and 351w firing order is 1 3 7 2 6 5 4 8.

 
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rostheiceman

rostheiceman

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ok so i did some work today and i did have 2 plug wires crossed so i changed it around and i still have the same prob runs for a few mins and dies im at tdc so i have not idea what else it could be?

 

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