have picks of ?????

[bob69m]

what is that? the oil filter screws right onto it. looks aftermarket, the hose is cut and it has a hole on bottom of the thing too almost like its for coolent,

 

[miesk5]

yo BOB,

WELCOME!

Is that below the alternator? I can't figure out where it is since when I try to enlarge pics, my laptop's vid card overheats. It is my issue not your pics Bob.

It may be the smog pump w/pulley removed as in this pic by Jem

 

[Rons beast]

That sure looks like an adapter for adding an external oil cooler......a broken adapter.

 

[Krafty]

if you could pull the hole thing out you could get a machine shop to weld a new hose fitting on it for you. otherwise I would reccomend trying to get it back to stock.

 

[miesk5]

yo Ron,

I believe you are correct!

Ford Racing BOSS 302 Engine Oil Cooler

 

[bob69m]

thanks guys thats what i thought, im gona pull it out

 

[bob69m]

alright any idea of how that thing comes off???

 

[miesk5]

yo,

Read thru this; http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2011-mustang-gt-tech/284985-boss-block-mounted-oil-cooler-instructions.html

excerpts;

"...The oil cooler is inside the canister - the hose connections on the outside are for engine coolant to flow in and out.

install;

) Have 2 clean one gallon anti freeze containers to catch coolant, open pet **** and catch fluid with funnel into jugs. Petcock is the yellow plastic hex shaped part on right side of bottom radiator. Used 5/16" allen key very gently. Small tube just above it lets out coolant but the petcock drips too when you open. Should get about 1 1/2 gallons out.

8) With channel locks, vise grips or hose clamp pliers squeeze hose clamps at water pump and lower radiator connection. Make sure you squeeze hard and all the way so the clamp tab clicks and locks it open. Bottom clam is glued to the hose and won't move, top clamp will release and move off of water pump neck. Remove hose from water pump first, you can pull down hard without worrying about breaking a plastic neck. Once the hose is off the top take your time and GENTLY work the lower radiator hose off of the radiator neck. I used a plastic trim removal tool to lift the edge of the hose to help unstick it. A little coolant will come out but not enough to worry about.

9) Take new hose with ports and set clamps open with pliers, put onto radiator first, clamp tabs will face out towards area where you removed horns. Do the same for connection at water pump. To release clamps tight take a large flat blade screwdriver and put the tip in the clamp slot and pry down on the tang of the clamp, this will release it and the clamp will spring tight.

10) Remove oil filter and clean up the filter boss on engine. Using long 9/16" hexdriver and 10" of extensions remove the filter mounting stud from the engine block. Go gentle, mine was not extremely tight but it is steel in aluminum and you don't want to pull out the threads.

11) Now we start installing the cooler, lubricate the rubber o ring with motor oil and place cooler onto block with the hose barbs facing the REAR of the car. The block has 'ears' on it that the cooler engages so it won't spin. There are only two ways it can go on right and wrong. Right is facing rear. Once you have it mocked up take the new oil filter adapter stud and pass it through the cooler and start the threads by hand finger tight. This gets a little tricky as you have to hold the cooler in position and get the stud threads started with out crossing. The best position is just like you are changing the filter, take your time and it's easy. Tighten to 40 ft/lbs.

12) Positioning the hoses. Start by taking the hoses in from the bottom and feed the pair of connectors that attache to the radiator hose up behind the alternator, under the drive belt, over the sway bar. One hose has a white dot which matches the white dot on the fitting on the rad hose. the other end the hose says 'ENG' where it attaches to the cooler barbs, the ends are staggered so you see which goes to which port. Gently push the hoses onto each fitting until you hear and feel a click. They are awesome and will not leak, just push on as straight as possible.

13) Now you have it set up and are ready to refill the fluids. Put a new oil filter back on and tighten as usual.

14) I used the Airlift coolant system to refill. Put assembly in coolant recovery tank and draw 26" of vacuum. Place refill hose into antifreeze jug and open vacuum valve to draw in coolant. let fill until recovery tank is up to cold fill line. Do not close cap at this time. I don't know if you can just pour the coolant in the tank and just top off as the engine runs but the shop manual calls for the airlift system and I own one so it wasn't a problem for me. In any case....

15) Reinstall airbox hoses and fittings and start up your car. Check all fittings and the oil filter area for leaks as it warms up. Leave cap off of resevior until the car comes up to operating temp, if the level goes dow, top off with a little distilled water or some fresh Motorcraft VC3B orange coolant. My car was right on the money and I had no leaks.

16) Reinstall your horns and all the other **** that you thought I was crazy for telling you to do but you found out it was easier when you did and you will be ready to roll. No horsepower gains, no bling factor but maybe a little insurance when you are running hard up and down your favorite road on a hot summer day at 7500 rpm...."

TUBE - OUTLET

Make: Ford

CR3Z6N866A

1$45.56 $45.56