Got it apart

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Kauffmanbros

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I have my transfer case, transmission and torque converter off right now. Is there anything anyone can think to do while I'm in there that might save me some possible work? Just thinking there are probably some normal wear components that I could possibly change to save me from having to do this again anytime soon.

 
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Kauffmanbros

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Also should I use some type of either anti-seize or loctite when reinstalling the flex plate bolts?

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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Yo,

Consider:

Rear main seal

Figure you have a C6, if so;

Check vacuum Modulator, it's hose to engine vacuum tree or fitting.

From http://web.archive.org/web/20101224143958/http://www.badshoeproductions.com/trans.html

"When I draw up the transmission to the block, why can’t I turn the crankshaft?

A. The torque converter was not installed all the way into the pump. The converter must engage the input shaft, stator support and pump gear lugs. With the converter installed properly, the converter hub will be deeper than the straight edge surface of the bell housing. With the transmission bolted tight to the block, you should be able to wiggle the converter stud easily in the flywheel."

Drain Plug Installation pics in an 83

Source: by lightnin (The Tank, Broncinator, John H) at http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=5435&s=26920

C6 Drain Plug

"I hated pulling the bolts out and letting the fluid dump out all over the place. I decided to put a drain plug in my C6 pan. I see some with them on the bottom and didn't care for how it hung down. I put mine on the side. Hopefully this may help if someone else is interested.

First off what is needed.

***** Plug, 1/4 to 3/4 Uni-Bit, Drill, Welder

Clean and Prep the pan.

Place the **** where you want it. Scribe a line around it. Find the center, drill a pilot hole then drill the hole to the correct size. I oppted to put it on the drivers side of the pan cause that is where I wanted it. <I HIGHLY RECCOMEND PUTTING IT ON THE PASSANGERS SIDE> I will point out why later.

I drilled the hole the same size as the ID of the ****. That allowed for the weld to run along the outside.

Fits nicely.

Clamped it to the corner of the table and placed the **** over the hole.

Then your ready to weld it up.

Almost right in line with the edge of the pan.

I bead blasted it to get rid of the blueing and put the plug with pipe dope in.

Now time for Leak check

No leaks. Good to go.

Primered it grey and got it back on the bronco. The drain plug is up and out of harms way.

I didn't take in to count that the NP205 I swapped in is narrower than the NP208. I eyeballed it and I should have plenty of room to clear considering that the drive shafts angles away from the pan from the transfer case to the front differential. I won't know for sure until I have my drive shaft shortened after the SAS.

C6 Description & Operation, Adjustments, Diagnosis & Testing (partial), Disassembly & Assembly, Parts Break-Out Diagram, Hydraulic Control System Diagram, Removal & Installation & Specifications @

http://web.archive.org/web/20090529064029/http://www.thedieselfiles.com/Ford/C6%20Automatic%20tranny.pdf

See page 17-10-5 for torque spec for converter to "engine"

 
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Kauffmanbros

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Awesome! I'm getting everything put back together now. I was reading about that park/neutral sensor in that pdf. I'm not understanding the lining up of the 3 holes? Is there something else I'm missing?

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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Yo,

See if this information is same for your year:

C6 Neutral Safety Switch Replacement pics in an 88 C-350 (Centurion Conversions); "...mounted under shifter linkage.." miesk5 Note; see pic #9 for a better view..by A

http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/5077/52635

switch-mounted-under-shifter-linkage.jpg

Pic#9

***

img_0303.jpg

See other pics.

***

C6 Neutral Safety Switch (also referred to as Back-Up Switch) Installation in an 89; "...Removing it should take no more than 5 min. There is a little bolt at each end and one nut in the middle the nut is the hardest thing. You have to immobilize the lever attached to it in order to get the nut off. When put it back in you are supposed to adjust it but I just put it in the middle and it works for me..." by Mad Dog Tannen

***

Neutral Safety/Back-up Light Switch , Removal & Installation; some may be incorrect, as reported by Seabronc, thanks Seabronc!

Source: by Chilton via Autozone

The switch is located on the left side of the transmission case. To remove:

Remove the downshift linkage rod return spring at the low-reverse servo cover.

Coat the outer lever attaching nut with penetrating oil. Remove the nut and lever.

Remove the 2 switch attaching bolts, disconnect the wiring at the connectors and remove the switch.

To install:

Install the switch on the transmission and install the two retaining bolts. With the transmission manual lever in the neutral position, check the position of the switch with a gauge pin (No. 43 drill) in the gauge pin holes.

Tighten the attaching bolts to 55-75 inch lbs.

Install the outer downshift lever and retaining nut and tighten the nut. Install the downshift linkage rod return spring between the lever and the retaining clip on the low reverse servo cover.

Connect the wire multiple connectors and check the operation of the switch.

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/04/bb/03//small/0900c1528004bb03.jpg

Fig. 3: Neutral start/back-up light switch on vehicles with automatic transmissions

***

Neutral Safety Switch Adjustment by All Data via Tim O (RED WAGON, redwagon); Place transmission manual lever in neutral position, then insert a .091 inch gauge pin through gauge pin holes, Fig. 8.

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11030&d=1242768855

Tighten switch attaching bolts, then remove gauge pin.

Install outer downshift lever and retaining nut.

Install downshift linkage rod return spring between lever and retaining clip on low-reverse servo cover.

Reconnect electrical connectors, then check operation of switch.

 
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Kauffmanbros

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Awesome, this helped a lot getting it all back together. Thanks big time.

 

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