yo TY!
Conversion to Manual; "...I bought the manual window regulators and handles from
Jeff's Bronco Graveyard. REMOVAL: Drill out the three rivets holding in the power window regulator, detach the cabling, slide the roller out of the window's track, and remove the whole shebang from the door.
INSTALLATION: Slide the roller of the manual window regulator into the window's track, align the three mounting holes of the manual regulator to the holes in your door (not the same holes as were used w/the power regulator, manual brace arm mounts at an angle), rivet or ***** the new manual regulator in place (I used screws, nuts, washers, and blue Loctite I got from Home Depot), mount up you door panel, slide the handle on and ***** into place. LMC truck listed two peices that JGB didn't have, so I ordered them. One is a large spring that goes between the door panel and the door frame to stop flapping/vibrations, the other is a plastic washer that keeps the vinyl door panel from sticking to the back of the handle in the summer. I guess they're not must-haves, but I opted to spend the $4 for a set of each. The manual regulator's "brace arm" (the part that bolts to the door itself) mounts at an angle. The top of the brace arm is angled in the general direction of the door handles, with the bottom of the brace in the opposite corner from the door handles (I'll post picks in the tech write-up, basically around a 20* angle). You WILL need to source some manual door panels if you want it to look right. I picked up a set from an 86 F150 and use that for plastic and vinyl spraypaint to do them up in a shiny black. They look gooooood. All in all, it took me about a solid hour per door. Having done it now, I could probably do both doors in one hour now. It really is that much of a non-issue..."
Source: by Sojourner
Tips;
"...For those pre-92 guys, these are the two connectors behind the kick panel you unplug to remove the door w/o cutting any wires. The upper plug is the power for the windows/locks & the smaller is power for the speaker. On the driver side, the connectors look the same but the green one is gray..."
Source: by Reptillikus
...............
Motor Removal by Brahma502
"...Take the motor out..... Pull the door skin off and you'll see a nice size hole in the sheet metal. Inside the hole, you'll partly see the motor and the three bolts that hold it in. I've read some guy in Superford that said to grind out the rivets of the window track to remove the motor. Holy shit don't do that.
Look at the next page....
Look on the sheet metal directly in front of the 2 out of 3 bolts that are hidden behind. See them little indents in the metal? Take a drill to them, make it big enough to fit a 8 mil socket thru. You can see the two drilled holes pic with the green boxes. The green triangle is the third bolt, which you can actually see in the pic. It's right there, but you have to shave a bit off that edge in order to get a socket and extension in there. I used a round file and filed it down a bit.
Take motor out and remove the last phillips ***** and the black cover. Remove the center piece - the cog that turns against the window regulator (the triangular circle on the right in the pic on the previous page)"
.....................
Regulator Parts Break-Out Diagrams in 80-96
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
