Gauge Problems

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Janae

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Hi. I've been searching for an answer to this and haven't come up with anything, so I decided to post my own question:

I replaced the headlight switch on my '73. I DID NOT disconnect the battery when I did this. Headlights and dash lights are now working again (I also replaced a fuse). But now my gauges aren't working and they were before I replaced the switch. Fuel is below 0, as well as temp and oil. I do have movement on the alt gauge, but that's it. I'm wondering if I shorted something out by not disconnecting the battery. I have since disconnected the battery and reconnected, but no change.

Any help on this matter would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

Bully Bob

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Hi Janae welcome..!!

Those 3 gauges are powered by a single wire to a small voltage drop/regulator that feeds +-6 volts to ea. gauge.

Beings all 3 are not activated.., My 1st. guess is you may have knocked a wire

loose while working with the light switch.

You might use one of those dentist mirrors along with a flashlight (key off) & look up under there.

If nothing is obvious.., we'll go to plan "B"

BTW What fuse did you replace & why..?

 
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Janae

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I had been having some headlight issues (they stopped working, I fiddled around, no change, then they just started working again for months, until this last time a week ago) and decided to replace all the fuses (there had been tin foil involved...). The parts store had tiny 15amp fuses, but I needed a longer one for the headlights. They had the longer ones, but they were 20amp. I left the headlight one empty for a long time because I forgot about it since the headlights started magically working again. So, a week ago when the lights went out again, I put a 20amp fuse in the headlight spot and eventually the lights worked again. On a side note, will using a higher amp fuse mess anything up?

Thanks for the suggestions regarding the gauges. I will see what I can see in the next couple days.

Hi Janae welcome..!!

Those 3 gauges are powered by a single wire to a small voltage drop/regulator that feeds +-6 volts to ea. gauge.

Beings all 3 are not activated.., My 1st. guess is you may have knocked a wire

loose while working with the light switch.

You might use one of those dentist mirrors along with a flashlight (key off) & look up under there.

If nothing is obvious.., we'll go to plan "B"

BTW What fuse did you replace & why..?
 

Bully Bob

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My Year EB calls out a 12 amp CIRCUIT BREAKER in the light switch itself.

Later models may have gone to a fuse setup so if it's marked "headlights" that is the case.

Most (quality) auto parts stores can pull that up on their 'puter. i.e. the required fuse.

Something you might do in the near future.

Unless there's been some electrical mods.., you should use the fuse amperage called out. 20 amp will be OK for now but,...??

Chilton book shows;

1966-1977 EB

Headlight switch has 12 amp circuit breaker for headlights.

ALSO, headlight switch has a 15 amp circuit breaker for horn, parking, license plate, side marker & stop lights.

Your problem has the "ear-markings" of a dirty or failing dimmer switch on the floorboard. The inner switch gets stuck or corroded..., or the wire connections(out in the elements in the wheel-well) could be crusty.

I took mine out.., sprayed inside with contact cleaner & electrical **** & cleaned all the wire conectors & it worked much better.

(don't mix up the wires.., mark where they go or make diagram)

I'm guessing the gauges are a seperate issue.

 
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astronot

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" I left the headlight one empty for a long time because I forgot about it since the headlights started magically working again"

Does that mean that the headlights were working with no fuse in the headlight fuse slot?

 

Bully Bob

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YEP..., I noticed that as well... :unsure:

The book says nothing about a headlight fuse..., the "headlight breaker" is in the switch itself.

Will be interesting to see what Janae has...?

Maybe aft. mkt. wiring kits are different, &/or, maybe a home made setup... :-B

 
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