grande_guerre
grande mondiale
hey all, i'm putting new gaskets on pretty much everything. Where do i need gasket sealant? everywhere? thanks for any help!
Gaskets!
- Thread starter grande_guerre
- Start date
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4xfan78
New member
I only use it on water related items and the oil pan. Also on 351m-400m it helps to put some on the valley pan.
I put sealant on.. water pump, timing cover, oil pan, intake ends, oil pans and the front and rear main bearing cap ends to mate with the oil pan gaskets (haynes manual has the illustrations on that), valve cover gaskets, thermostat housing....
How you apply the gasket sealer and gaskets make all the difference also.
I clean my valve covers (and thermo housing), put a bead of sealant on the ****** and put the gasket on the cover while the sealant is wet, then turn the cover over and place it gasket down on a very smooth surface (table top, counter top etc) to ensure that it seals even if the flanges are a bit tweaked, then let it cure like that. When installing the valve covers on the heads, I do not use any sealant on the head mating surface or on the gasket that mates with the heads. This makes for an easier removal with less ****** tweaking and it still seals the covers just fine.
Timing cover, water pump and thermo housing I put a very thin layer on both mating surfaces, (run a bead and spread it thin with a finger and install the parts with all the bolts till they are a tad past snug and let them sit for about 10 minutes so the sealant gets a tiny bit set up, then torque the bolts in steps. Doing these wet can make the gasket squeeze out a bit.
The oil pan, I run a bead on the pans ******, put the gasket on it and use the table top just to press down and spread the sealant under the gasket, to ensure good coverage, then spread a bead on the blocks surface with my finger, put some sealant at the ends of the pan seals on the mains and install the pan while its all wet, snugging the bolts evenly all around, watching so I don't squeeze any gasket out (easy to do...)
Intake ends, I run a thin bead on the blocks srface, spread it out thin, then apply a small amount on the intake gaskets where they fit with the cork, then install the intake and torque it.
Some people use a thin layer of sealant on both sides of the intake gaskets around the water passageways. I typically don't do that unless I am running a cast iron intake. For aluminum intakes, I run them dry and retorque the intake after two full warm ups and cool downs and every couple of months.
I have use with and without sealant on the water passages on al intakes and really don't see a difference at all..
But with al, you have to retorque no matter which way you do.
For the carb, no sealant.
I think I got it all..
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />
How you apply the gasket sealer and gaskets make all the difference also.
I clean my valve covers (and thermo housing), put a bead of sealant on the ****** and put the gasket on the cover while the sealant is wet, then turn the cover over and place it gasket down on a very smooth surface (table top, counter top etc) to ensure that it seals even if the flanges are a bit tweaked, then let it cure like that. When installing the valve covers on the heads, I do not use any sealant on the head mating surface or on the gasket that mates with the heads. This makes for an easier removal with less ****** tweaking and it still seals the covers just fine.
Timing cover, water pump and thermo housing I put a very thin layer on both mating surfaces, (run a bead and spread it thin with a finger and install the parts with all the bolts till they are a tad past snug and let them sit for about 10 minutes so the sealant gets a tiny bit set up, then torque the bolts in steps. Doing these wet can make the gasket squeeze out a bit.
The oil pan, I run a bead on the pans ******, put the gasket on it and use the table top just to press down and spread the sealant under the gasket, to ensure good coverage, then spread a bead on the blocks surface with my finger, put some sealant at the ends of the pan seals on the mains and install the pan while its all wet, snugging the bolts evenly all around, watching so I don't squeeze any gasket out (easy to do...)
Intake ends, I run a thin bead on the blocks srface, spread it out thin, then apply a small amount on the intake gaskets where they fit with the cork, then install the intake and torque it.
Some people use a thin layer of sealant on both sides of the intake gaskets around the water passageways. I typically don't do that unless I am running a cast iron intake. For aluminum intakes, I run them dry and retorque the intake after two full warm ups and cool downs and every couple of months.
I have use with and without sealant on the water passages on al intakes and really don't see a difference at all..
But with al, you have to retorque no matter which way you do.
For the carb, no sealant.
I think I got it all..
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />
