fuel pumps just cutout

[gvfc2]

I have an 87 ford bronco with the 302 with aod. My dad drove it to the store just fine and got done shopping came out and it wouldnt start. We thought it was just out of fuel, but then took a listen and couldnt hear the hi or low pressure fuel pumps. hit the inertia switch nothing. There is a slight water leak on the driver side just under the wind shield. it makes its way down the inside fender well behind the kick panel past the pcm/ecu. could the ecu just have shorted or should i go thru checking all the voltage first?

Mods please move this to the tech support. didnt see that section at first

Update: Had to wait for my dad to get home for a battery charger as the broncos battery was dead. charged it alittle and it started. im thinking either the inertia switch was the problem or there is a hot short somewhere

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

Voltage; "...a normal battery that is fully charged produces 12.6 volts, not just 12.0 V. (Remember, when measuring battery voltage, everything in the car should be off, or the battery should be disconnected. Voltage measurements are always "no load" measurements unless the battery is being tested for it's performance under load)..."

Source: by Gordon

Dead Cell; "... Sometimes, a battery will have just one cell go bad or short out. When this happens, the battery will seem fully charged, but fail to start the car, or it may start the car right after charging, but then fail to start the car an hour or more later. If this happens measure the S.G. in each cell. If one cell has a lower S.G. than the rest by a significant amount, replace the battery - there is no way to fix this problem. This condition most often happens to batteries subjected to lots of vibration, and sometimes to new and almost new batteries that have a bad cell from the factory..."

Source: by Gordon

Parasitic Current Drain Test; "...you should be able to trace the "parasitic draw" on the battery in the normal way. Pull the (-) cable off & put an ammeter inline set to the 10A range (or higher if possible) to see how much current is being pulled out of the battery with the key OFF, the doors SHUT, & the hood light bulb REMOVED. Make sure absolutely NOTHING is turned on anywhere on the truck. If it registers 0 or below the meter's next range, switch it down a range until it shows some useful numbers. If it ends up being below 0.5A (500mA), then replace the battery. If it's above that, start by disconnecting all the alternator wires & see if the reading drops under 0.5A. Then move to the fuse block & pull them 1 at a time until there's a significant drop in the reading. That's the circuit that's draining the battery. Follow it to find the problem..."

Battery Testing Procedure TSB 91-10-10 for 85-91 Bronco, Aerostar, Econoline, F-150-350 Series, Ranger; 85-90 Bronco II; 89-91 F Super Duty, F47, F-53, F-59; 91 Explorer, etc.

Source: by Ford via http://web.archive.org/web/20080123231650/http://www.performanceprobe.com/misc/tsb.php?article=91-10-10

ISSUE A battery testing procedure has been developed for all cars and trucks.

ACTION If service is required, refer to the Battery Testing Procedure Chart, Figure 1.

BATTERY TESTING PROCEDURE

TEST STEP

RESULT

ACTION TO TAKE

A1 VISUAL INSPECTION

No

Yes

CLEAN terminals

and clamps.

GO to A2.

GO to A2

Remove negative cable, then positive cable.

Check for dirty or corroded connections.

Are connections OK?

A2 LOOSE BATTERY POST

No

Yes

REPLACE battery

GO to A3

Check for loose battery posts.

Are posts OK?

A3 CRACKED BATTERY COVER

No

Yes

REPLACE

battery

GO to A4

Remove holddowns and shields.

Check for broken/cracked case or cover.

Is cover OK?

A4 BATTERY CAPACITY AND LOAD TEST

Passed the

minimum load

voltage and OCV

above 12.40

Passed the

minimum load

voltage and OCV

below 12.40

Failed the

minimum load

voltage and OCV

above 12.40

Failed the

minimum load

voltage and OCV

below 12.40

Battery OK.

Battery OK but

NEEDS CHARGING

Battery worn out

REPLACE battery

CHARGE battery

for 20 minutes

@ 35 amps.

REPEAT STEP A4

(load test).

PASSED the minimum

load voltage.

Battery OK but

NEEDS CHARGING.

FAILED the minimum

load voltage.

REPLACE battery

Use a high rate discharge tester with a variable rate control or a fused rate tester with meter compensation for different battery electrical sizes. Follow instructions supplied with tester for the battery capacity test.

Recommended Discharge Rate at 27°C (80°F): One half of the cold cranking amps.

Example

Cold Cranking Amps

Discharge Rate Amps

850

650

540

460

425

325

270

230

Voltage Readings at 15 seconds for Good Battery (Battery Capacity Test).

Approximate Battery Temperature

Minimum Load Voltage

27°C(80°F) and

above

21°C(70°F)

16°C(60°F)

10°C(50°F)

4°C(40°F)

-1°C(30°F)

-7°C(20°F)

-12°C(10°F)

-18°C(0°F)

9.6

9.6

9.5

9.5

9.3

9.1

8.9

8.7

8.5

Wait 2 minutes and check the Open Circuit Voltage (OCV).

Measure Open Circuit Voltage with a digital voltmeter capable of reading 1/100 volt.

TB-2223-A

NOTE: WHENEVER POSSIBLE, TEST AND CHARGE BATTERIES AT OR NEAR ROOM TEMPERATURE.

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: None

WARRANTY STATUS: Information Only

OASIS CODES: 203100

 

[fordblood]

A short would blow a fuse. If it works sometimes you have an open.whether the open is a broken wire or a switch that isn't working properly will have to be determined.