front diff

[wtfdissux]

have reached the conclusion that my 4x4 problem needs to stop and have narrowed it to the front diff but need to I.D the gear ratio and weather or not is equipped with the trac-loc like the rear had problem is the doors have been changed so no sticker to go from no tags on either axle (rear is not orriginal anyway)

also if any one has seen a write up on this please point me in the right dirrection as the labor guide at work calls for four hours but my manual must be smoking crack as it says remove radius arm brackets springs shocks and so on I cannot see why

 

[Yardape]

Put the t-case in neutral lock the hubs, jack the front tires off the ground and turn one wheel, watch the other wheel. If it goes the opposite direction its a conventional, if it goes the same way its a locker.

 

[Justshootme84]

Jack up one wheel, and spin it one revolution. Count the number of rev's of the driveshaft for one of the tire. If it's 3.5, your ratio is prolly 3.50/3.54 to 1. IF it comes up 1.7, yo don't have a L/S front, and you neeed to jack both tires, turn one 2 revs, and count the driveshaft revs. Do that, and post up your findings.

I would charge 8 hours labor to change the front diff, not counting a gear swap. You need to remove the hubs, spindles and axles, then pull the chunk. IT's rather heavy, and a bear to re-install. If you're just dropping the whole frontend, then you would unbolt the shocks, steering linkage, and radius arms at the frame. THat's about 2 hours work at most.

What's your problem? It may only be a hub or an axle or u-joint. The D44 diff is failry reliable, JSM84

 

[wtfdissux]

Jack up one wheel, and spin it one revolution. Count the number of rev's of the driveshaft for one of the tire. If it's 3.5, your ratio is prolly 3.50/3.54 to 1. IF it comes up 1.7, yo don't have a L/S front, and you neeed to jack both tires, turn one 2 revs, and count the driveshaft revs. Do that, and post up your findings.
I would charge 8 hours labor to change the front diff, not counting a gear swap. You need to remove the hubs, spindles and axles, then pull the chunk. IT's rather heavy, and a bear to re-install. If you're just dropping the whole frontend, then you would unbolt the shocks, steering linkage, and radius arms at the frame. THat's about 2 hours work at most.

What's your problem? It may only be a hub or an axle or u-joint. The D44 diff is failry reliable, JSM84

ok when it first started the truck had the crappy "tin hat"style 87-88 locking hubs so I upgraded to a set up from an 89 (spindles axles hubs knuckles ....you get the idea still not better re- replaced the spindle bearings wheel bearings and U-joints (all 3 plus the 2 on the drive shaft) an still no change what it is doing is when in 4 x 4 on the ground pulls to the right and makes some horrid grinding sound that I cannot pinpoint all the while the front seems to teeter totter side to side and acts like I am trying to push a Mack truck with a scooter i.e. binding in the front somewhere But this only happens on the ground with all four off the ground (on an alignment rack wheels up from the lift) it acts like normal all the way to 70 mph all that is left in my opinion is the damn diff thinking spider gears or grenaded the trac-loc like I did on the stock rear end before replacing it(the gear ratio in both rears is/was 3:55)

sorry for running on but its bean a long day....replacing a jeep steering gear box at work and already broke 2 pitman arm pullers

 

[Justshootme84]

It sounds to me like a bad hub. IF the diff works on a lift, and both side axles turn, look at the hubs for the problem. When on the ground with weight on them, it takes more force to move the wheel. Make double sure the axle u-joints are not binding, either. Since you've swapped out the crappy original 87 hubs, you know how long that takes. IT only takes a bit more time from there to pull the axles and pull the diff if you want to inspect the gears or spiders. Lastly, check the tolerance on each side's wheel bearing. Spin the tire and it should make about one rev before stopping. You might have one side too tight? JSM84

 

[wtfdissux]

minor accident at work today so won't get to it this weakend as planned but is it possible to check the diff without pulling it?

 

[Justshootme84]

Not really, since the gears and housing bolt in from the back, and there's no cover plate in front, just the axle beam housing itself.

 

[wtfdissux]

any one know where to get a bearing puller for the spindles my snap-on dealer seems to be on permanent vacation and mac has no idea what the heck I am talking about

 

[Yardape]

I tapped mine out from the other side, did you try it this way? they came out very easy

 

[wtfdissux]

have heard horror story's of doing it that way and want to have everything to do this at one time as I need the truck every day. the only bright side is I am doing this at work so I have a lift vise grinders and most importantly air lines

 

[SoFlaSwamper]

autozone should have it, and they rent it free with a deposit.

If i were you, i would just goto the junkyard and find a scrapped bronco or f-150 and swap out the whole front end....or....better yet....SOLID AXLE CONVERSION!!! /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[wtfdissux]

already is a bone yard front and solid axle is not cost wise or time wise possible at this time and for Auto zone I deal with thier commercial department all the time and hate it but will give them a call tomarrow