EZ Wiring Harness....

[genthree]

Very happy with the "package"  11 lbs of spaghetti to try and figure out what to do with....  

Spent a couple of days dreaming about what I wanted the rig to end up like and decided not to cut extra wires until I was all done.  

I mounted the new fuse block up under the dash facing down right above the gas pedal.  

Pulled all the rear wires and front left wires thru the main hole above the E-brake pedal.  The sending units and dizzy wires in the middle hole and the rest on the far right side.  I am currently not running aux fan so I pulled that wire up front to use for lights in the future.  

Third brake light and power window circuits will turn into CB and AUX power circuit for the interior.

The hardest part about wiring is cutting the first wire.  Once you do that it's real EZ.  

BTW....  The EZ harness is VERY nice....  Very well marked (each wire) and instruction manual is pretty good...

They don't have the reverse light wire in the drawings, but there is one in the wiring harness...

I have terminated all of the back wires (had to add a new wire for the AUX tank sending unit) and have completed the left side of the front.  I need a good idea of where to lace the wire loom past the radiator.,,,  Any cool ideas???  Pics would be great!!!

 

[Bully Bob]

Wow.., good job..!!

Know this..., you are now the current EB wiring expert on this board..!!

Soooo..., check-in often if you would.... /

All EB's had the wrapped loom runn'n along the top of the rad. support panel.

I believe, on the later models, it was in front/top of support panel, under the lip.

On mine, it's between the rad. & the support panel, right under the hood support rod.

Held in place by some hefty "pop-in" clips.

Either way, it's pretty well protected.

 

[genthree]

If I am the expert, we are all screwed!!!  I can read and crimp and cut and understand pictures, but THAT'S it!!!  

It's going pretty well, but you GOTTA GO SLOW!!!  Get too far ahead of yourself and trouble starts....

I currently need some help.  On the alternator regulator there is a 4 wire plug with 3 wires coming out of it (not counting the noise supressor) (PIC #1).  ALTERNATOR, Stator, and Field all of this is pretty simple, my problem is that my wiring harness has something called an ALTERNATOR Exciter wire that is supposed to go in the 4th spot on the plug...

What is that for?  (Picture #2)

I also attached a picture of the harness (Picture #3)

Let me know what you guys think....

Thanks...

 

[Seabronc]

Is this a complete rip out of the old wires?  I assume that you have an old style alternator with an external voltage regulator, correct?

>-

Do you have an alternator indicator light?  That is usually where the this wire goes.  What does the ignition switching diagram look like?

 

[genthree]

Yes complete rip out of old wires.  Yes old style alt with ext. reg. I don't have an alternator indicator light so I am ignoring the Exciter wire right now....

Seabronc, I printed our the 73 wiring schematic that you uploaded someplace and it is currently hanging on the wall in my shop.  I am noting all wiring changes on it, so when I am done I will have a new schematic for "MY BRONCO"...  Also when I cut out all of the old wire, I removed it in sections, so later on I can see exactly where the wires were going to double check my work.

I will get you some more pictures of the ignition diagram, but It is simply a chart that says "old color.... New color" I think.

After church I will go out and get some pics of it.

You really do learn alot about the way your bronco works when you take on one of these projects.

 

[Seabronc]

If no charge indicator then it should be hooked to a 12v source that is hot with the keyin "Start and Run".  You need it for the alternator to run,  If not hooked up the alternator won't put out.

I don't know if they suggested this, but you should do the "Ignition" and "Charge" circuits first and make sure they work before you go no from there. Then do one function at a time and test it before moving on.  That way you are can sort out any errors as you go and not be fighting multiple wiring errors alll at once.

>-

 

[genthree]

In my current harness there was nothing on the "I" terminal of the regulator.

I am planning to splice the "A" terminal to the SOLENOID PWR wire before the FUSIBLE LINK (as it was in the original harness).  I am assuming that is the determining factor for the regulator to "CHARGE" or not???  

I would LOVE to test and move on, but I simply can't, because my entire dash is on three different benches in my shop....

I have not done my permanent looming yet.  I am moving into the dash area now to hook everything up.  

They give you a pretty detailed "start up" guide to help you thru the initial testing of all circuits and to make sure nothing is TERRIBLY wrong.

 

[genthree]

terminated all of the wires to their homes last night so I could "start and run"....

It eventually started (out of gas and looks like I have a weak fuel pump), but it did start and was able to see about 15 volts across the battery poles....  VERY HAPPY!!!

That didn't last long as smoke was soon billowing from the engine compartment.....

There is a fourth wire on my alternator harness, that I took to be a ground of some sort...  IT IS NOT!!!  It got red hot and melted the loom that I had put around the four wires....  Alternator is HOT also, hopefully I didn't trash the windings (cheapo aftermarket)....

I am guessing that this may have been some sort of "charging lamp" or something....

I will muster up enough courage again tomorrow night and give it another try....

BTW...  Plastic loom, puts off enough rancid smoke that you can't hide your mistakes from family and friends....

 

[genthree]

LIttle bit of research shows that this wire is for the CHOKE only....  IT IS NOT A GROUND!!!!  

Just when I start feeling cocky about my wiring skills.....

 

[Seabronc]

Check the voltage on that wire with the engine running.  Most Ford carbs have 7V heaters.  If it is 12V you will need to get a 12V heater.  Found that out when I replaced my Ford/Holley with a stock Holley and the choke wasn't dropping out the way it should, stock Holleys have a 12V choke heater.

 

[genthree]

The Holley on this truck has a manual carb...

Disconnected the wire and capped it.  Truck started right up and is charging at 16v...  How can I tell if the regulator is not overcharging the battery?

 

[Bully Bob]

Does seem a bit high..,  13.5v - 14v is considered more normal.

Did you try a couple other volt meters to verify that's an accurate reading.?

A solid 16v may be ******* the battery, lightbulbs, etc.

I'm thinking, at this point,  I'd remove the alt. & bench test it at the parts store.

It's poss. that fried wire tweeked the alt....? (& regulator.?)  :glare:

 

[genthree]

Before I fried the system it was a brand new alternator.  I am guessing that my $9.00 voltmeter may be the issue.  I am going to go put it on my suburban and see what that looks like.  I will bring home a REAL meter from work also...

Maybe time to invest in real tools....  (if I am going to be the site wiring guru.....)

 

[genthree]

Yes my meter read my suburban at 14v at rest and 16v running.  I am guessing I have a meter issue....  Time for a new meter...