Engine problem :(

[Pet3]

So i'm having a little trouble with the motor in my Bronco, it's '89 302 EFI. The problem is that always when it's been raining heavily or i've been driving through rivers/water, the motor runs sluggishly and stalls often, can't run idle, but only after the motor has reached working temperature. I've changed the spark plug wires (3 layered 8mm silicone wires) replaced all the spark plugs, cleaned the distributor and coated everything with silicone spray, coated all the connections around the EEC with silicone spray as well, replaced the EEC relay, put in a new air filter, new breather element in the air filter box, new PCV valve, i've also replaced the fuel filter, still it runs sluggishly. So i'm thinking could it be that the EGR valve needs replacing or am i missing something ?

 

[whitey]

coil?

 

[firelt90bronco]

well, if you've been driving through alot of water, check all of your fluids for water (oil, trans, pwr steerng). If it just started doing this after you drove through alot of water, it is prpbably related to water being somewhere where is shouldn't be. Also the silicone spray may be interrupting something.

 

[Pet3]

I neglected to say that three weeks ago, I replaced all fluids, motor oil, trans fluid and transfer case, steering fluid, rear and front end, all filters as well. And the problem persists /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

well, if you've been driving through alot of water, check all of your fluids for water (oil, trans, pwr steerng). If it just started doing this after you drove through alot of water, it is prpbably related to water being somewhere where is shouldn't be. Also the silicone spray may be interrupting something.

 

[ocalabronco]

the coil can get wet and that shouldnt affect anything, normally its completely sealed. chek your dizzy cap to make sure its sealing right, and look for any water/condensation. the symptoms you are describing sound like a wet distributor. once its thoroughly dried out under the cap, seal the mating surface of the cap with a silicone sealer, not a spray. no water should get in then, and you can easily get the cap off by cutting through the silicone bond

 

[BLADE262US]

Possibly bad wires start it up at night pop the hood and look for the electrical storm . /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[KJEfting]

Did you check to see if you have good fuel pressure? It may be a plugged injector. Although it does sound as though your problem lies in the ignition system somewhere.

 

[miesk5]

do you have a Check Engine Light?

you can do a self test to get the Trouble Codes

EEC-IV Self Test & Connector Location & pics, Bronco & Ford

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13

 

[whitey]

what i meant to say was to check the coil connections to distributor. i had same problems when heavy ocean condensation was in the air. eventually i found out it was the lead (or whatever) from the dist to the coil was corroding and the condensation in the air made it worse and short out and stall. after a time it wouldn't start again.

anyhow i would check all wiring too for corrosion.

 

[Pet3]

Well, I took off the distributor cap and cleaned out the dust in it (there was a lot more dust than I expected :S) al the pins in the cap looked dark(maybe even black) so i cleaned everything up, put it together, and the engine has been stalling alot more after that. I'll be getting a new dist cap and (hammer/rotor? don't remember the term ) tomorrow. I hope that'll clear up the problem [-o<

 

[Justbust1n]

you might need to check and see if your air intake has any holes in it or hey it might be your throttle position sensor,,, just some thoughts goodluck

 

[Pet3]

That seems to have cleared the problem, the engine responds better now, and doesn't stall anymore, but I still have to do the 'real' test.. I.e. Get the motor wet /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[Pet3]

Sh**t. I sill have the probem, even after replacing the dist. cap and rotor. So my symptoms are: When the engine reaches normal operating temp it starts running erratically and stalls in idle. When i'm driving, the enine runs erratically if i go below 2500 rpm and stalls under 1500 rpm. To tell the truth, it's getting on my nerves. Next thing i'm gonna try is replacing the coil. But does anyone have any ideas what else might be causing the problem? I drove 60 miles today and it still ran like shit. :angry: (

 

[swampthing]

you might need to check and see if your air intake has any holes in it or hey it might be your throttle position sensor,,, just some thoughts goodluck

tps can cause eradic idle and frequent stalling

 

[Yardape]

Any possibility of a vacuum leak? Upper intake gasket needs replacing?

 

[miesk5]

do you have a Check Engine Light?

you can do a self test to get the Trouble Codes

EEC-IV Self Test & Connector Location & pics, Bronco & Ford

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13

when wet?

or dry?

if not, rule out a lot of parts changes to save $

 

[Pet3]

Finally! It's fixed, it was the TPS in the end, but strangely the car ran very well for about half an hour with the new coil. Anyway, runs like a charm now. Thanks alot for all your help! /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[whitey]

thanks for coming back and letting us know what the deal was. at least you got a new coil out of it too, new ignition stuff is always good. keep your old one in the truck for an emergency i always say.