Electrical Issues

[CPDieker]

I drive a 1984 Full-size Ford Brono 4x4 XLT. Right after christmas, I replaced the carbouator, ignition switch, ignition module, Ignition modulator, and lock & tumbler. I returned back to college and rarely drove, the battery went dead several times, and I would get a jump and be off and running again. Toward the end of the semester, I replaced the battery. It lasted 4 days. I was driving at night and the interion gauge lights went dim and petered out, the headlights did the same, and after a few minutes, the engine started to spurt out. I changed the voltage regulator, coil, starter sylenoid, battery cables, battery, and alternator. The problem continues. What do I do next? Has anyone experienced this? HELP!

Thanks,

C P

 

[Bully Bob]

FULLY charge the batt. ...then check the voltage at the batt. running & not running.

This will tell you if charge system is functioning. ( a 'lil over 12v not running & 13-14v running.

 

[stubby]

check your ground- check to see if you have a short or a bad connection. the battery should be grounded to engine and the engine to the body or frame... sounds simple, but i've been through this on customer vehicles. also with all the parts you've replaced check to make sure the connections are good- sometimes a wire might get pushed out of the way and not reconnected ... good luck

 

[Seabronc]

Well, from what you said, it has all the symptoms of running the truck off the battery instead of the alternator. I ran a TR3 that way for about 150 miles once. I didn't see anything you said you changed that had anything to do with the charging system and Bully Bob & Stubby's suggestions are a good place to start.

You need both ends of the system, charging and grounding for it to work. If all the connections are good, then you are down to two components, the alternator and the voltage regulator. Once you have checked all the connections, I mean all of them (including the connections to terminallugs), cleaned them and made sure that they are on solid, check the voltage at the battery for 13 - 14 V. If it is not, then alternator or voltage regulator are your problem.

Good luck,

>-

 

[wrachet]

Boy does this sound familiar!!! We ended up putting a battery cutoff switch in our vehicle just to make sure the dang battery didn't go dead on us. Since you've replaced just about everything...after you've checked your ground, make sure you don't have any exposed wiring anywhere that could be shorting something out.

I wonder if this is a common problem with the 84's???

Colleen

 

[Seabronc]

I wonder if this is a common problem with the 84's???

Colleen

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All I can say is that I don't have such a problem /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> . However, the older the vehicle gets, the more prone it is to having such things happen. If you think you have a short, then you should take the time to locate it. I know that is easier said than done, but it is doable with the proper troubleshooting technique. The most common source of a short is where wires are laying on the frame or chassis and tend to move due to flexing of the vehicle. Once the circuit that is drawing from the battery is determined, it is just a matter of following it to the short.

However, this problem sounds more like a failure of the system to generate power since the alternator is supposed to supply all the power needed once the engine is started and if the battery is not fully charged, charge it. The battery's sole function is to supply power when the engine is not running. After that is is just a leach, a good leach, but a leach never the less and if you don't feed it when the engine is running it won't have juice to spit back when you need it to start the vehicle ( .

Good luck,

>-

 

[wrachet]

All I can say is that I don't have such a problem  /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />  . However, the older the vehicle gets, the more prone it is to having such things happen.  If you think you have a short, then you should take the time to locate it.  I know that is easier said than done, but it is doable with the proper troubleshooting technique.  The most common source of a short is where wires are laying on the frame or chassis and tend to move due to flexing of the vehicle.  Once the circuit that is drawing from the battery is determined, it is just a matter of following it to the short.
However, this problem sounds more like a failure of the system to generate power since the alternator is supposed to supply all the power needed once the engine is started and if the battery is not fully charged, charge it.  The battery's sole function is to supply power when the engine is not running.  After that is is just a leach, a good leach, but a leach never the less    and if you don't feed it when the engine is running it won't have juice to spit back when you need it to start the vehicle  (   .

Good luck,

>-

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Most of mine's problem was that my brother had his fingers in it! So his screwups became my problem instead of his!!! He tends to replace the stock radios with something "better" without knowing what wires do what...thus, leaving a mess behind for the next owner.

We haven't had a problem since we replaced just about every cotton-pickin thing that has to do with the electrical system but then again, we're still using the battery cut-off as a safeguard.

So I'm fixing this Bronco up so that the next owner doesn't have to deal with the mess (hopefully). I wish I could keep it once we're done with it but we don't have the room. Neighbors are already complaining about it but they can't say anything because all the vehicles are licensed. That's why we couldn't bring the "parts" Bronco to my house to do everything...because the neighbors and the city would complain!!! LOL

I agree that there is a short somewhere that is causing these problems...the only problem is finding it!!! I was curious about it because this isn't the first time I've heard of problems like this!!!

Anyways, I've rambled on enough.

Hunt down the short like it's someone that owes you money.

Colleen

 

[Seabronc]

Hunt down the short like it's someone that owes you money.Colleen

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The best book you could invest in for any Ford is the "Ford EVTM (Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual). If you have seen the diagrams I include in some of my responses, they come from that book. Ford has produced one of these manuals for every year and vehicle they produces since around the 60's.

The book cuts out all the garbage you find in other diagrams and only show you what you are looking for including the wire colors, connectors and location, location of devices, etc.

So I recommend the EVTM as one of the must have books if you are going to work on your own vehicle. There are several sellers that specialize in this type of manual on ebay.

Good luck,

>-

My oldest daughter is a Colleen /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> .

 

[wrachet]

So I recommend the EVTM as one of the must have books if you are going to work on your own vehicle. There are several sellers that specialize in this type of manual on ebay.

My oldest daughter is a Colleen  /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> .

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Thanks! Colleen is a great name... /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Colleen