edelbrock carb

[desertbronc]

i have an issue. my bronco came with a 4barrel carb from Edelbrock. the issue is that the 4 barrels are always open. i thaught that only 2 barrels were open and the other two came open when u needed them (smashed throttle). is this right?

Thanx.

 

[Justshootme84]

As a general rule, the front two barrels have a butterfly or plate that opens and closes for the choke, and normally get fuel at idle and partial throttle. The rear two bowls/barrels are usually termed "vacuum secondaries", which only get fuel at WOT (wide open throttle). IF the rear bowls are getting fuel at idle or low speed, check for a vacuum leaks or mis-placed vacuum line from the intake manifold. JSM84

 

[desertbronc]

well its the fronts that have the butterfly valve, when its off they are closed but when its idleing they are wide open. so i will check the vaccum hoses.

 

[Broncobill78]

Is it a spreadbore (primaries are smaller than the secondaries) ? Also, If it's a double pumper than all 4 barrels will accuate at the same time & that sounds like what you have. Sometimes you get a previous owner who goes a bit overboard & runs a dbl pumper when it makes no sense to (especially on a street truck). Get the # off the carb & ck to see just what it's *supposed* to be. There are dbl pumpers & vacuum secondaries, ck to see just what you have, might be that it's working just the way it's supposed to.

 

[Justshootme84]

well its the fronts that have the butterfly valve, when its off they are closed but when its idleing they are wide open. so i will check the vaccum hoses.

The valve or choke plate should close when the engine is off, and open slightly when you start it. If the plate stays shut, you won't get any air and the engine won't start. Whether the carb has a manual or electric choke, the plate will move to fully open after a few minutes as the engine warms up. If the plate stays partially closed after that, you'll be running really rich and bellowing black smoke out the exhaust. Sometimes the linkage will bind or sieze up, and all it needs is some **** or cleaning. Check the throttle linkage for any visual signs of a problem, like a broken spring or twisting of the plate as it opens. The Edelbrock 1400 series are fairly reliable and don't give too many problems, other than perhaps an idle adjustment now and then. JSM84

 

[desertbronc]

ok got the nubers and its a 1406.

heres the link to one :

http://www.outperformanceshop.com/Edelbroc...-p/ede-1406.htm

anyone know much about this carb? were can i get a manual for it. should i just spray it with carb cleaner or something, and what do i use to lubricate the linkages and stuff.

 

[Justshootme84]

The EDL 1406 is a 600 cfm carb with an electric choke, so check that it's getting power first and foremost. The factory set-up has a weird 7v relay powered off the back of the alternator, unless whoever installed the carb bypassed that and just ran straight 12v power from somewhere else, like a key-on source. USe WD-40, penetrating oil or silicoe spray to **** the linkages. Beware that if you spray WD-40 or carb cleaner inside the carb, it will combust if you try to start it right away. There's usually some troubleshooting tips and a guide with an Edelbrock repair kit, or you can look at their website. They also have a tech line you can call for help. JSM84

 

[Seabronc]

The factory set-up has a weird 7v relay powered off the back of the alternator, unless whoever installed the carb bypassed that and just ran straight 12v power from somewhere else, like a key-on source.

Ditto on that. That was a Ford better idea :lol: . You definitely have to change what is powering the electric choke to a keyed 12V or it won't open properly as the engine warms up. No aftermarket choke uses a 7V heater. As far as the secondaries go, they should be closed untill you stick your foot in it or unless you are running high RPMs. Under normal cruise, the secondary plates, (when properly set up), only open when the engines air requirement exceeds the front 2 barrels and then only enough to supply the demand. The only time they fully open is when you stomp on it and drop the vacuum extreemly low, and then as the vacuum comes back up they will adjust to the engines requirement to sustain a given power output.

I do love the sound of that gas and air being sucked down when I put my foot into mine / , that's usually when one of those Japanese Beetles is anoying me with his tail pipe noise maker )

Good luck,

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[desertbronc]

ok so i cleaned the carb, and it is not helping. its still open. and if i close it y hand it idles really high. and link that comes from the electrick choke on the side is kind of limp. is it supposed to be stiff?. do you guys think i need a new one. i forgot my tester at work so i cant tell if it has good voltage. it is spliced into some other wire. what stud on the back of the alternator should it go to?

looking at the wiring diagram the one wire from "carb solenoid" (electric choke right?) goes to the "throttle acctuator" (dont know) then to the "starter relay and ignition coil" (ignition side), and the other wire is grounded is this right.

 

[BLADE262US]

Edelbrock and Carter AFB,s are almost the same . They are a mechanical secondary carb which means as long as the choke is open the 4 barrel is going to open if you push it that far . If the choke is closed theres a little lock bracket an the one side that traps the secondary linkage so that it cant open which you wouldnt if the motor was cold . I dont remember how it goes but the 2 big screws in the front on one model adjust the air for the idle the other model adjust the fuel for the idle . So with this model carb no matter what you do the secondaries are going to open if the choke is open and you push the pedal . /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />