Differentials???

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bew8484

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Just purchased my 96 Eddie Bauer. I've always had a 4x4 but never upgraded one. I am planning on a 4" suspension lift, 2" body lift, and 35's. The problem is I don't know a single thing about differentials. I want 4.56 gears because i still have to pull my boat, but which type of differential do I need? (four wheelin is moderate mudding and mostly snow) Please help I'm open to suggestions.

Thanx in advance

Brad

 

jtp1201

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Just purchased my 96 Eddie Bauer.  I've always had a 4x4 but never upgraded one.  I am planning on a 4" suspension lift, 2" body lift, and 35's.  The problem is I don't know a single thing about differentials.  I want 4.56 gears because i still have to pull my boat, but which type of differential do I need?  (four wheelin is moderate mudding and mostly snow) Please help I'm open to suggestions.
Thanx in advance

Brad

18692[/snapback]

more than likely you have the 8.8 rearend, to install 4.56 gears there is nothing special, the front however you will need to purchase a new carrier if it is the dana 44

 

Broncoholics

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If you are pulling a boat, get a selectable locker if you go that route. Posi's don't work all that well with 35"+ tires.

 
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bew8484

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Thanks for the help guys. Where is a good place to find selectable lockers. And what are good brands, and prices.

Brad

 

Broncoholics

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Lately I've been liking the OX locker. Its a cable activated locker so you don'y have to worry about air leaks of an ARB or electrical problems with an electric type. Once the cable of the OX is adjusted right you are good to go. I just e-mailed my buddy with an OX and he's had it installed for a year now. I get his reviews...

 
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bew8484

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Thanks some real world reviews would be a lot better than reading what the company's say. They all just say that their product is the best.

Brad

I forgot to ask about the front. You guys said that the front would need a new carrier, but does that include the diffential or do i just neet the carrier. If so should I go ahead and upgrade the front diffential while I've got it all apart (or having it installed).

Thanx

Brad

 
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Justshootme84

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Just purchased my 96 Eddie Bauer.  I've always had a 4x4 but never upgraded one.  I am planning on a 4" suspension lift, 2" body lift, and 35's.  The problem is I don't know a single thing about differentials.  I want 4.56 gears because i still have to pull my boat, but which type of differential do I need?  (four wheelin is moderate mudding and mostly snow) Please help I'm open to suggestions.
Thanx in advance

Brad

18692[/snapback]

I would check first to see if your Bronco has the factory limited slip or TracLok in the rear. The axle code is H9, or the ID tag will read "3L55 88 ..." or "L55 88..." I think this would be adequate for 4wheeling and towing a boat under 6000 lbs.

I would think twice, however, about towing with your Bronco with a 6" lift and 35" tires, even with the proper gear ratio of 4.56:1. It can get real squirrely even without a lift.

If you do decide to change gear ratios, you will need a new "carrier" for the front axle ring gear. That is the part that the ring gear attaches to and mounts inside the axle. You can check on prices and such at Jeff's Bronco Graveyard or any of the gear vendors like Randy's Ring&pinion, DriveTrainSpecialties, etc.

 
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bew8484

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Would it be better to stick with just a 4" lift and 33" tires with maybe 4.10 gears for towing then? I really just wanted the extra lift for appearance. My boat isn't that big. It's a 23' day cruiser (about 3800 lbs.). And which one did you mean would be adequate for 4 wheelin and towing the traclok or the limited slip. I will check in the morning what my axle code is.

Thankx

Brad

 
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Justshootme84

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The TracLok is a limited slip type of differential, or what some folks call a "posi" rearend. It basically splits the power to both wheels when one looses traction, vs. all power going to the one that's spinning with a regular or "open" diff. If you're pulling your boat up a wet ramp with an open axle, one wheel can spin forever and the other one just sits still. With the posi-types like the TracLok, IF one wheel starts to spin, the other side gets some power and hopefully has enough traction to get you up the ramp.

This system uses clutches or discs to still allow some slippage while dividing the power to each side and relieve some stress on the axle shafts. Something like a locker does what the name implies. It "locks" both shafts together to give equal power to both sides. Great for traction, but they need to have a way to unlock when turning a corner or else the outside tire has to slip.

Whether you go with a 4" or 6" lift, you will have to lower the hitch mounting point on your rig. You can use a drop hitch or dropped down style bumper, but that puts alot more leverage on the hitch. You'll need to keep the rear anti-sway bar, too, to help control the truck and trailer when towing. If you don't plan on offfroading very much and want to keep the stock suspension but get a "lifted look", then consider a body lift instead.

 
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bew8484

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I just read on truckperformance.com that anyone with basic tools and common knowledge of vehicles can install an Eaton E-locker in about two hours. This is very contradictory of what I've read on here and sounds a little far fetched. Is there something that makes these lockers different or is this just BS.

thankx

Brad

 

Justshootme84

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I found this article on the Eaton E-locker while researchnig another topic:

E-locker install in an 8.8"

It also has a link to the install sheet from Eaton. Can it be done in two hours? Sure it can. Can you do it with a hammer and a screwdriver? No, you need more tools than that!

I agree with the article that if you have a basic knowledge or experience with removing and installing the differential, that adding a locker is no sweat. BUt it is VERY CRITICAL to set the backlash for the ring gear for it to work, and you're dealing with thousands of an inch adjustment.

It took me and a friend less than 20 minutes to completely tear down the Ford 8.8" in my 88 Bronco just using hand tools. I will add that if you are changing out the pinion gear for any reason, that installing a new one is alot harder due to having to set the both the bearing preload and backlash.

So, bew8484, have you found out if your Bronco has the factory L/S? If it does not, then this electrical-controlled locker from Eaton is an option. For $680, it's a rather expensive option, though, plus the cost of any tools and other parts you'll need to have. I read on another site about the TracLok selling for under $200 at bronco graveyard. I'm going to take a look at that later, since I may want one for the front axle to go with the one I have in the rear axle.

 
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bew8484

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Ah yes I did find out that my bronco has the factory limited slip. Which is good I know but I think I might just go with the selectable locker now instead of doing it later. Because I know if I don't do it now I will just want it later. Anyways I'm going to have to change the gears for bigger tires might as well **** two birds with one stone. Now I just have to save the money to do both at once. May take a little longer but it will be worth it I think. Thanks for the link it may be prove to be very helpful. Now I just have to go research the different selectable lockers.

Thankx to all

Brad

 

solido_98

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I have an 82 bronco and would like to know what kind rear diff i have. the axle code i have is H4. can anyone tell me what the code is or what kind of axle i have?

 

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