Dana 60

[bew8484]

Alright guys. I've finally got extra cash and just ordered the lift and stuff for my bronco. My Question is, let's say I can get a decent (rear)dana 60 for real cheap. Is it worth to switch it with my 8.8? I've heard this could be a money saver down the road with the bigger tires. And how much work is involved in the swap? Can a intermeidiate mechanic with the right tools do it at home in the garage. Or is it even worth it?

bew8484

 

[Broncoholics]

The rear is pretty easy if the spring perches line up. Other wise cut and reweld them back in place. Things you will need is new 8 lug rims, conversion u-joint for the driveline like 1550 to 1310. Or have your driveline modified. The gear ratio has to match the front.

If you plan on regearing and getting new rims you might as well find a D60 front and be done with it.

 

[bew8484]

Will a D60 front carrier work or do I have to do the SAS?

 

[Broncoholics]

Yeah, SAS the front. Its a bit of work. Good luck!

 

[johnski]

Here's a link from a guy on FSB that did a 60 rear and 44 front swap:

http://www.supermotors.org/clubs/2bigbronc...s=23277#content

 

[ocalabronco]

if you're going to put a 60 rear in, you will also need to set that 60 up with your factory VSS. most rear 60's you will find WILL not have it and you have to drill the housing to mount it. go to FSB and search around. you'll find your answers

 

[lightnin]

You can just swap it in but there are alot more things you have to do. Like mentioned earlier you will need a D60 with VSS if your bronco is equiped with it. You will need to sas a D60 or a d44 hd or a D44 coil spring axle in with 8 lug outers. Or swap your TTB to 8 lug outters. If not you will be carrying 2 spares. Make sure your gears match. You will need to run 16" rims or bigger to clear Dual Piston calipers if your Swaping in a Solid axle. If you you will need to grind down the caliper for the 15" to fit. Other than that you should be good to go. I am fixing to do the same thing. Just picked up my D60 rear. Rebuilt a Solid D44 and am putting on 8 lug outters. Found me some 16" rims and Found som MT Baja Claws that I am wanting to get.

 

[94redbronco]

i rencently broke my 8.8 and have broke it before. the bronco has the same rearend as the explorer. it is a weak point in the drivetrain. the best thing you can do is go find a 9" or have one built. if you have it built it will be between $1500-$2500. for a cheaper solution i removed the rear axel whitch was pretty easy and took it to a gear shop. i put in an Eaton E-locker (whitch uses magnets to engadge the locking pin. so i can go from positraction to full locker at the push of a button. my truck sees alot of road so i did not want a reg. locker) new ring and pinion and axels the whole set up cost me around $1300 witch is cheaper that puting a new stock rearend in it. last time i broke it that was what i did and it was about $2000. i have 31x10.50 so if you go bigger you should definitaly switch your rearend

 

[ocalabronco]

in looking at your future plans, if the largest tire you are going to run is a 35, i think you will be able to get by with the 8.8. the rear 60 swap really isnt THAT hard, but if you're going to stick with 35's, there's not much reason. the biggest problem people have the the 8.8's is the tubes spinning in the center section due to the fact that there are only two plug welds holding the tubes in place. you can take your rig to a fabrication/welding shop and have them run a bead around the area where the tubes meet the center section and if you wish for a little more strength, they can bend up a truss for you and weld it to the axle, considerably increasing the housing's strength. i ran 35's ******* my 8.8 for three years and destroyed the factory Crap-Loc carrier only once at the end of those three years. if you replace the carrier with a good quality limited slip or locker when you change out ring and pinions, you should have no issues. if you like, you can install a custom built 9", which is not all that much stronger than an 8.8. but that will put a serious hurtin' on your wallet. when you are ready to let the rig grow, shop around to find the best price on gearing. having front and rear gears set up should not run you more than 800-1000 bucks total. also, if you want to run 35's, spring for 4.56 gears, not 4.10s.

 

[johnski]

i have 31x10.50 so if you go bigger you should definitaly switch your rearend

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I've put some decent stress on my 8.8 w/4:56's and a detroit on 35's. It's also got a tube truss and the axle tubes are welded to the diff. It's held up with no problems. What the **** have you been doing to your rig on 31's to break it?

the biggest problem people have the the 8.8's is the tubes spinning in the center section due to the fact that there are only two plug welds holding the tubes in place.  you can take your rig to a fabrication/welding shop and have them run a bead around the area where the tubes meet the center section and if you wish for a little more strength, they can bend up a truss for you and weld it to the axle, considerably increasing the housing's strength.

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Like this?

 

[ocalabronco]

exactly

 

[bew8484]

Nice pic, and a big help. So far I've gathered: weld my 8.8's tubes, 4.56 gears, and add a good lsd or locker. Probably go with limited slip since its my daily driver. The sas will without a doubt come later$$. Well the lift is on the way, and the flares are being put on next week so it's starting to come along. Thanks for all of the help guys I'm still new to the whole drive train modification part so I'm gonna go do some more reading. Any other info will be great.

Front diff?? locker or limited slip?

bew8484

 

[johnski]

Front diff??