Dana 20 Rebuild

[Curtis]

Anyone know how to get the snap ring off the front output shaft. Directions say wedge bearing and drive gear apart. Tried too but a little hesitant to use much force because other things seem to be hitting. Can't even see this snap ring. Is it under something? First time I've ever worked on a Dana 20.

Thanks

Curtis

 

[brownbronco]

Curtis

I just rebuilt my first D20 and ran into the same problem. What I found after a bunch of trying to find the snapring and cutting bearings and lots of swearing and research - was the snap ring didn't exist. The bearing on the output side (as well as the shimed side) is a press fit and holds the assy together. NOw comes the question as to how do you get it apart. Can't press it and a puller won't get onto the bottom of the bearing (unless you wamnt to make the puller).

What I did - is use a cutting torch to remove the output side bearing - its the reverse of swetting a bearing on. The procedure is to split the bearing cage and remove the rollers. Then with a friend that can use channel locks - support the transfer case above your work bench so the output shaft is pointing down at the floor. Get the bearing as far out of the case as possible to get better access with the torch and channel locks. Fire up the torch and get a good hot cutting flame with a small flame tip. Heat the bearing race up hard in a half inch path across the race. as soon as the race turn red in this band ( maybe 10 to 15 second with the torch) move the torch aside and have your buddy grab the race with the channel locks and wiggle the race. It should slide down the shaft. Work fast or the race will cool and lock back on the shaft. If thishappens gie it a little more heat and then pull again. The race should slide right off.

The trick is to get the race hot enough to expand and not transfer the heat into the shaft - that is why you need a cutting torch (or a welder if you are really good) a propane torch won't get enough heat into the race fast enough - it will heat up the whole assy.

When the race comes off the shaft - let the shaft cool naturally (it wll be warm - should not be hot). Then you can finish the rebuild.

One item to note - when you reassemble the gearbnox make sure your springs for the detent balls are stretched to the point where they hold the threaded plug out a little. If the spring is conmpressed - the case will jump out of gear wheen you are driving (experiance is a great teacher)

I hope you can follw this lengthy writeup. The procedure is simple and straight forward. If you have some doubts or need practice - use a couple of old bearing races and heat them up just to get the feel. If you give it a shot and the race doesn't move - let it cool for a couple of beers and try again. Don't cool it with water or oil - it will change the temper of the steel.

Remember - you need to press the bearing back on during assy. The book showes a slip fit - but it won't work. Also - you will find a spacer in between the bearing and gear - As I rember - it is direction sna must be installed in the same direction as it was removed.

One last item - to remove the shifting fork set screws required using a cutting torch - they were installed with locktite red. So be carefull - I got a nasty cut trying to remove them with an allen wrench. I finall used a 3/8" dive socket style allen wrench to get them loose.

If you have any other quest just ask on the board or email me.

Rick