CV bearings???? in driveshaft

[coolio2281]

got under the truck noticed some play in the front of the rear driveshaft closest to the transfercase. well looks like theres a small maybe an inch long 1/4 inch thick spring that attaches to this ball bearings the the cv joints. well, mine is completely shot, the bearings were completetly dried and rusted out and its pretty bad, my first question woulld be, Symptoms...iam noticing some clicking, here and there and at about 40 mph and drivetrain rumble and vibrations then at 55+mph another vibration and rumble., second, installation, i found a cv-repair kit on Jeff's Bronco Graveyard for less than 20 bucks, difficult to install?, and third, once installed, proper way to keep them lubed and ready to go?, thanks guys your the best!

 

[miesk5]

yo,

"...could be a few things.. U-joints going out on the driveshaft, slip shaft needs greasing or 3rd member is warn and loose. get under and see if there is any side to side movement with the ujoints on the shaft, there shouldnt be any side movement at all; than grease your slip-joint (search) and go from there...& by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong); Instead of sliding into the t-case like a car driveshaft would into a trans, a Bronco driveshaft normally is two pieces that slide together. The slipshaft is normally covered by a rubber boot in the middle like in the pic below; When you check the u-joints as Spiked described, park it on a flat spot, block the wheels & put it in neutral. That way the driveshaft will be free to move if the u-joints are bad..."

Source: by spikedzombies (O' Black Betty) & by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong)

Installation in a Dana 44 Source: by Keith L (TTB Blows, Bling-Bling) at SuperMotors.net

Repair @ Dana 44 Source: by Mark H (welndmn, Wheeling Demon) at wt4x4.net

Installation

Source: by federal mogul http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/Federal_Mogul_U_%20joint_installation.pdf

Repair @ Dana 44

Source: by topfisherman at SuperMotors.net

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How to upgrade your front drive shaft to a CV with 1350 U Joints.

1) Upgrade yoke on your dana to a 1350 Cost 80.00 (for new)

2) Buy a front driveshaft off of a 2001+ F250 Cost 40.00 (used)

3) Buy a rear T Case ****** Cost 35.00 (used)

Total upgrade = $155.00

by bossind

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Universal Joint TSB 97-20-15 for 90-96 Source: by Ford via miesk5 at cc

==

#EDIT; more stuff for posterity...

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1996 F-150, F-250, F-350 4x2, 4x4, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab, Motorhome Chassis and Bronco Vehicles Workshop Manual

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

Driveshaft, Front

Removal

To maintain driveshaft coupling shaft balance, mark the driveshaft slip yoke (4841) in relation to the transfer case yoke for correct positioning during installation.

Remove the nuts and U-bolts (bolts for F-350 at transfer case) that connect the rear driveshaft slip yoke to the transfer case and the front yoke to the front drive axle.

Remove the driveshaft from the vehicle. Wrap tape around the bearing caps to prevent the bearings from falling off the U-joint spiders.

Installation

NOTE: If the driveshaft slip yoke and slip yoke boot have been separated from the splined stub shaft on the driveshaft, refer to Slip Between Center Driveshaft in the Disassembly and Assembly portion of this section.

Install the driveshaft so the marks on the driveshaft slip yoke and transfer case yoke are in alignment.

Install the nuts and U-bolts that retain the driveshaft slip yoke to the transfer case yoke. Tighten nuts to 11-20 Nm (8-15 lb-ft). On F-350 tighten bolts to 27-38 Nm (20-28 lb-ft).

Install the nuts and U-bolts that retain the front driveshaft and coupling shaft yoke to the front drive axle. Tighten nuts to 11-20 Nm (8-15 lb-ft).

Front Driveshaft, F-150, F-250 4x4 and Bronco 4x4

Item Part Number Description

1 4635 Universal Joint

2 — Bearing (Part of 4635)

3 — Snap Ring (Part of 4635)

4 — Seal (Part of 4635)

5 — Spider (Part of 4635)

6 — Splined Stub Shaft

(Part of 4602)

7 4421 Slip Yoke Boot

8 4841 Driveshaft Slip Yoke

9 — Boot Groove (Part of 4841)

10 4K227 Large Clamp

11 4K227 Small Clamp

12 4602 Driveshaft

13 — Front Driveshaft Yoke

(Part of 4602)

===================

With Double Cardan U-Joint, F-350 4x4 Front and Bronco Rear

Removal

To remove the rear driveshaft (4602) on Bronco, index mark the driveshaft in relation to the transfer case and rear axle companion ******. Disconnect the double Cardan U-joint from the ****** at the transfer case and the single U-joint from the ****** at the rear axle (4001). Wrap tape around the bearing caps to prevent the bearings from falling off the U-joint spiders. Remove the driveshaft.

To remove the front driveshaft on F-350 4x4, index mark the driveshaft in relation to the transfer case and front axle universal joint ******. Disconnect the double Cardan joint from the ****** at the transfer case and the single U-joint from the ****** at the front axle. Remove the driveshaft. Wrap tape around the bearing caps (front) to prevent the bearings from falling off the U-joint spiders.

Installation

To install the front driveshaft on F-350 4x4, align index marks and position the single U-joint end of the driveshaft to the front axle and install the U-bolts and nuts.

Position the double Cardan joint to the transfer case with index marks aligned and install the four bolts and lockwashers.

Tighten the bolts at the transfer case to 27-38 Nm (20-28 lb-ft), and the nuts at the front axle to 11-20 Nm (8-15 lb-ft).

NOTE: When installing a new rear driveshaft, align the factory-made yellow paint mark at the rear of the driveshaft tube with the factory-made yellow paint mark on the outside diameter of the rear axle companion ******. If the paint marks are not visible, and a vibration is present after driveshaft installation, refer to Section 05-00.

To install the rear driveshaft on Bronco, position the single U-joint end of the driveshaft to the rear axle with index marks aligned and install the four bolts.

Position the double Cardan joint to the transfer case with index marks aligned and install the four bolts.

Tighten the bolts at the transfer case and the rear axle to 83-118 Nm (61-87 lb-ft).

if this site won't allow Diagram to appear here, see it @ http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e2258g.gif

Item Part Number Description

1 4635 Double Cardan Assembly

2 4635 U-Joint Assembly

3 4784 Driveshaft Center Yoke

4 4782 Driveshaft Centering Socket Yoke

5 — Centering Spring

(Part of 4635)

6 7B214 Transfer Case Yoke (******)

7 4841 Driveshaft Slip Yoke

 

[Bully Bob]

got under the truck noticed some play in the front of the rear driveshaft closest to the transfercase. well looks like theres a small maybe an inch long 1/4 inch thick spring that attaches to this ball bearings the the cv joints. well, mine is completely shot, the bearings were completetly dried and rusted out and its pretty bad, my first question woulld be, Symptoms...iam noticing some clicking, here and there and at about 40 mph and drivetrain rumble and vibrations then at 55+mph another vibration and rumble., second, installation, i found a cv-repair kit on Jeff's Bronco Graveyard for less than 20 bucks, difficult to install?, and third, once installed, proper way to keep them lubed and ready to go?, thanks guys your the best!

OMG...!

You should have noticed symptoms eons ago..... /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> Last thing you want is for that to "drop" & catapult you into a ditch..!! :wacko:

If you have tools & mech. abilities.., you can do it.

My 1st. time (visit) up in Reno we couldn't get his apart.

At home I did my own but it was a bit tricky as I recall. (needed 3 hands)

Anyhooooooo If you're not up to it...stop by your local driveline shop.

 

[coolio2281]

BULLY BOB- yes, this whole contraption is one PAIN IN THE ASS, when i replaced the u-joints a few days ago i noticed the bearings were falling out of the cv bearing, its pretty bad, if you could please go to broncograveyard.com the 90-96 bronco driveshaft parts and there is a CV bearing Repair Kit for like 15 bucks, is this all i will need?

MIESK5- All rear u-joints are brand new, the rear axle has VERY LITTLE play but some i must add, what iam experencing is definatly a driveshaft out-of-balance issue, iam about 90% sure my symptoms are due to this cv-bearings issue, considering when i replaced the u-joints the bearings were nuthing but dust and fell out, i just want to make sure the cv-repair kit on bronco grave yard is all i will need, and some re-assurance on how-to installation. thanks guys!

 

[Bully Bob]

That seems awful cheap.... I really don't know what you have there...?

Only thing I found was at http://www.wildhorses4x4.com

Under 66-77 driveshafts.....there it actually shows a pic. of the inner parts of a CV Joint

k5's pics & exploded view show what it looks like as well....

 

[coolio2281]

hey guys, got the cv-bearing (joint) fixed on the drive shaft earlier today, it was pretty intense process,, anyways, the vibrations and clicking noises are gone but while putting on the driveshaft the weight on the driveshaft itself fell off, so as of right now the driveshaft is not balanced, i drove the truck at 55mph and there were no noticable vibrations at all, think the weight will even make a difference since its offf?

 

[miesk5]

yo,

ok, get it balanced.

This is from Spicer (Dana-Spicer) http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF

A driveshaft on a vehicle usually rotates at a higher rate of speed than the tire. For that reason, like tires, driveshafts should be

balanced.

Any time you build or rework a driveshaft, make sure it is dynamically balanced at, 3000 RPM for Light Duty or 2500 RPM for

Heavy Duty, to the following specifications

Important: The critical speed of an assembly can be affected by driveshaft imbalance, .... (A properly phased driveshaft has the in-board yokes of the shaft in line with each other.) Each of the above items will tend to lower the true critical speed from the values shown on the calculator.

Since critical speed can ultimately cause driveshaft failure, it is extremely important to be very precise in all applications.

GL!

 

[coolio2281]

ok thanks man, where do u think i could take it to get it balanced? or are there any kind of fluid balancing clamps i could buy and put on there so i dont have to take it to get the weight welded on,?

 

[Bully Bob]

Hay cool..,

They'd prob. weld it for free...!!! $-)

--OR-- whip up some two part epoxy & glue it on the same spot....prob. work for ever, or until you find a neighbor with a stick or wire-feed........ >-