Crusie control not cruising???

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sreaminbronco

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MY cruise control is not working like ill press the on button and then set and set it but the dash light never comes on and it never actually comes on period whats the most likely problem?

 
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Seabronc

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Not sure what year truck you have, but I don't think they changed the control much over the years. The controls on mine are powered thru the horn relay coil. I'll attach a picture of the circuit. From what you say, it doesn't seem to be getting power. Perhaps this diageram will give you something to check. Also included in the cruise control is a vacuum dump valve attached to the brake peddle. If it is stuck open the unit will never pick up. That is what shuts it down when you hit the brakes, but from what you said I'd think it was a power problem.

good luck,

:)>-

PG66a.jpg

PG67a.jpg

 

Seabronc

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PS, there are 3 fuses involved on nine, F1 F6 and F16. F1 hazard flasher and stop lights, F6 also does the rear window defroster, F16 also does the horn.

:)>-

 

PopsDream

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I'm having the same problem with my 83's Cruise control. Fuses OK, horn and steering OK, and still no CC.

Can you suggest how to test the Actuator and the brake pedal switch to narrow things down?

By the way, I have a spare acutator (I think that's what you call it) that sits in the engine compartment from an 88 from a boneyard. Don't know if it is functional or not, or if that is even the problem.

Thanks much for your advice on how to troubleshoot this. It's one of the last things I need to restore on "Pops Dream".

Carlos :)>-

 

Seabronc

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The vacuum dump switch operation can be tested either with a vacuum pump or by sucking on the end of the hose at the servo. Pull it off and ****, be carefull no crap gets down your throat, I keep my tongue in the way when doing something like that. You could also remove it from the brake pedal and **** on the end of it while pushing and releasing the plunger. There is also the vacuum hose to the tap on the intakle manafold, make sure it is good and not cracked.

Yah, it's properly called a servo. I would not normally expect the servo motor to be bad, they are pretty robust. On the voltage end, you can test the voltge level to the speed control switch. If the horn works then voltage is at the input to the switchs.

At the connector to the speed control amplifier under the dash, you can check that you are getting voltage from the steering yoke switches. look for a blue with black hash mark wire. When the speed control on button is pushed you should get about 12V. The other buttons develop differnt levels ( not sure what they are off the top of my head and don't think it is important if the control doesn't engage in the first place).

Like I said in a previous post in this thread, the diagrams I posted are for a 83 Bronco. You can use it as a guide.

Good luck,

:)>-

At the connector to the amplifier there should be a white with pink stripe wire. It should have 12v with the key in the run position. Also, 12v should be at the light green wire only when the brake is applied comming from the stop light switch.

Check the ground which is a black wire on the same connector.

Also check the speed sensor, Other than a continuity check, I don't know how you would test it other than changing it. You should be able to get a reading thru it.

If these check good, then first I'd change the amplifier, the last thing I'd change would be the servo motor.

 

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