Crank No start problem

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AHBronco90

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So I had gotten my Bronco running not too long ago with the fuel pump as the problem. I fixed that and had it starting no problem for about a month. Now, the fuel pump still works and the engine cranks but i cant  get it to start consistently. i got it to start twice to today ( it kinda sputtered to life after cranking for a few seconds. I drove it around pulled into a gas station and tried again to no avail. If anyone has any advice i really appreciate it.

 
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AHBronco90

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Update: Just got it to sputter to life again and drove it around. I noticed it reads the RPMs when its in Park but does not when I'm driving? Pulled back into my house and went to start it again and just cranks... I'm lost

 

Rons beast

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Hey AH,

First, when the engine will not fire, check for spark. If there is no spark, connect a test light between the + and - terminals of the coil and look for flashing when cranking.

If no flashing, verify you have 12V at the + terminal of the coil wih the key in the on position.

If you have the 12V and no flashing test light, the cause is in the primary ignition system. Since you mentioned you have a tach- no tach issue the most likely cause is the ignition module.  

Good Luck.

 
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AHBronco90

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Hey Rons beast,

I checked spark about a week ago doing all the tests you mentioned, everything checked out. Ill go ahead and replace the ignition module, I didn't even think to check it.Thanks!

 

M1llionb

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Good to hear you're back and running AH, I had a similar problem in the past... My fix was my fuel pump relay.

 

Seabronc

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Similar problem two different solutions. Good trouble shooting rather than shotgunning a problem definitely saves a lot of money.

:)>-   

 
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AHBronco90

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Hey so I can't celebrate yet... It starts up in the morning but not after it's been running. I'm again confused. Timing issue? It sounds like no compression when cranking. I had a friend of mine from a shop here come by and he's unsure but he thinks maybe the timing belt is off. He also said that's an expensive fix... Shiiit

 

fordblood

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Has a chain and not a belt. It's not unheard of for a chain to jump a tooth bUT not common either. It would have to have a lot of slack to do so. With these engines I wouldn't be worried about it being a huge expense unless it jumped several links. You can check how much slack you without taking everything apart by pulling a valvl cover and turning the crank by hand an see how long it takes for any rocker arm movement. If even on e moves then you know the chains tight and engaging. If you move the crNk a few degrees and the Ricker arms don't then you may need a new chain. If your over a 100k miles and it hasn't been caged then you are probably due for one anyway.

 
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AHBronco90

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Hey Fordblood,

Thanks for the knowledge, I'm new to auto DIY so any advice is much appreciated. Ill run those tests today and get back to you!

 
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AHBronco90

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Hey I haven't got a chance to check out the timing chain but I was doing some research on my problem and I found some similar problems related to a bad ECT sensor? It sounds too good to be true so if anyone has any feedback let me know!

 

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