So I've been a ford guy forever and I'm looking for a new multi purpose rig ie off road rig camping rig family rig and my dd also use for hauling I have three kids with at all times so a pick up is out and I've owned jeeps for years and I wanna go bigger with the ability of removing a top do I was looking at the 92-96 broncos knowing I need a special torx to remove the top on the94-96 and a new backseat for belts my big questions are what the pros and cons between 92-93 and 94-96 styles and between the 5.0 and 5.8 thanks for All the input names mike and I run a off road club with Oakland Wayne lapeer macomb and livingston county's in Michigan if anyone is interested in wheeling let me know
Could use some input
- Thread starter K11
- Start date
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yo K11,
WELCOME!
The 5.8 does have more torque and HP; but I have the 5.0 and it is ok for dd and off-roading; Ford should have put a diesel versaion out.
The top comes off and seals well after use;
Removal w/Tool List, & Security Torx® bolt replacement w/Metric sized bolts (5 8x70mm 1.5 Pitch Metric Bolts & 12 8x45mm 1.5 Pitch Metric Bolts) 92 - 96
Source: by Froggmann (Ken P) at froggmann.com
http://www.froggmann.com/Bronco/Tech/Topremoval.htm
Should get a qulaity set of Torx bits bec the Torx fasteners are used in various locations such as door and tailgate striker bolts, seat belts, etc.;
bench seats are available bec of the cash for clunkers AND GOOD VEHICLES mess; For a YARD SEARCH on-line, I use;
http://www.hollanderparts.com/
or
http://www.copartfinder.com
Has Vehicle Pics!
http://www.picknpull.com
This a company name, not rep of all pick & pull yards
http://www.car-parts.com/
Also for obsolete parts;
Our Sponsor here has been adding some to inventory; Jeff's Bronco Graveyard
and: by Ford pn:
http://www.partsvoice.com/
http://www.rearcounter.com
http://www.greensalescompany.com
The later years auto tranny is the E4OD; best overall would be the 96 bec. it has the most "improvements" and 1996 has ODBDII, that helps much more in troubleshooting; it even has a Code for a loose gas cap!
We have a 96, bought it new in May 96 and basically, we "over-maintain" it...meaning 3k mile oil/filter changes & ***** all filters changed, etc.. using Ford's severe duty schedule; see a Link at end of reply
One of the most reliable daily drivers and beach run/light off road vehicles we've have ever had (incl the ex 78).
Still, we had minor problems that we addressed quickly.
Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:
- oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet® Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and undercoat/paint by Ford
- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight
- auto tranny - E4OD had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing
- rust in inner rear fender lips, bottom of B pillars and bottom of tailgate (fender lips are rusting due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) and 1/4 panel that lets moisture & debris in the seam) - A Bronco may need extensive & $$$ patch or full panel replacements...
check tg drains for clogs/rust..check weather seals, esp the outer ws on glass
- radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings
- ball joints.. costly if not DIY
- Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module (PSOM in 92-96), make sure it works; look for a waver in the needle at highway speeds; most get yard units for DIY
- look for some maint records or contact a dealer to see what maint was done to it a Ford dealership in the past (need VIN)
or on-line dealer service record summaries (Ford is adding entries now), etc. at Ford myford.fordvehicles.com (need VIN) & must register if you haven't already for your other Fords.
If no maint records are avail; check and replace if needed all filters and fluids.
Esp if it is an Auto tranny; fluid level; when at norm op temp; after running thru all gears & reverse; no burnt toast or whitish (water) deposits on dip stick.
Car Fax is ok, but they did NOT list over $5k in single accident damages on 3 of our past vehicles; & our ex-92 Van had less mileage listed than when we sold it according to a CarFax report 2 years later... they did nothing after we contacted them.
- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.
- roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)
- emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube; buy locally or from pciinc.com
- radiator core supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side, PIA to replace
- body mounts and fram rust
For a 96 get it checked for codes free at Parts Stores if you don't diy; For pre 96 with EFI do a SELF TEST - my pal BroncoJoe at
a Self Test by BroncoJoe19 do the KOEO = Key On Engine Off portion first & Remember to have engine @ Normal Operating Temperature before doing the KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) portion
miesk5 NOTE, The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks; miesk5 NOTE, The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks. Self-Test Output (STO) is the Pin in the Lt gray Connector and Signal Return Ground (SIGRET) is Pin E in black Connector; The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. then; turn off all accesories/lights, etc. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual), release clutch. Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first. For Key On Engine Running (KOER) portion, the engine has to be @ normal operating temp. Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.
- transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually usually a broken travel stop or the motor connector is fouled, etc.
Also the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that someone removed it.
Same for Amber ABS lamp in Instr Panel.. The 4-wheel anti-lock brake system is self monitoring. When the ignition switch is placed in the RUN position, the anti-lock brake electronic control module will perform a preliminary self check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a momentary illumination of the amber ABS warning light in the instrument cluster. During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake electronic control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations.
In most malfunctions of the anti-lock brake system, the amber ABS warning light will be illuminated. However, most malfunctions are recorded as a coded number in the anti-lock brake electronic control module memory and assist in pinpointing the component needing service. Our module blew the micropprcessors two years ago and two yard modules were bad..No returns so I'm running without 4WABS, just like the old days.
Suggest you buy the official FORD EVTM, Service manual CD from E bay or Steve83 (use the search here for him and use the e mail function to contact him); it is the BEST under $15.00 or so thAng you can get to service and repair your Bronco!
The Owner's Manual is avail on e bay, but the 96 version is almost 100% equal
Get it for free from FORD; myford.fordvehicles.com (need VIN) & must register if you haven't already for your other Fords.
or
Owners Guide (Manual) for any Bronco/Ford truck & other Ford vehicles, get a free download for 96 to current year; includes Scheduled Maintenance Guide
Source: by Ford via fleet.ford.com @ https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp
We here can help you on most if not all Smog issues.
Jeff at the Bronco Graveyard has offered a 2% discount to members of The BroncoZone for on line orders. To get your discount, enter the discount code BZMEMBER. Also you must include your BroncoZone User Name with the order.
http://broncograveyard.com
GL!
WELCOME!
The 5.8 does have more torque and HP; but I have the 5.0 and it is ok for dd and off-roading; Ford should have put a diesel versaion out.
The top comes off and seals well after use;
Removal w/Tool List, & Security Torx® bolt replacement w/Metric sized bolts (5 8x70mm 1.5 Pitch Metric Bolts & 12 8x45mm 1.5 Pitch Metric Bolts) 92 - 96
Source: by Froggmann (Ken P) at froggmann.com
http://www.froggmann.com/Bronco/Tech/Topremoval.htm
Should get a qulaity set of Torx bits bec the Torx fasteners are used in various locations such as door and tailgate striker bolts, seat belts, etc.;
bench seats are available bec of the cash for clunkers AND GOOD VEHICLES mess; For a YARD SEARCH on-line, I use;
http://www.hollanderparts.com/
or
http://www.copartfinder.com
Has Vehicle Pics!
http://www.picknpull.com
This a company name, not rep of all pick & pull yards
http://www.car-parts.com/
Also for obsolete parts;
Our Sponsor here has been adding some to inventory; Jeff's Bronco Graveyard
and: by Ford pn:
http://www.partsvoice.com/
http://www.rearcounter.com
http://www.greensalescompany.com
The later years auto tranny is the E4OD; best overall would be the 96 bec. it has the most "improvements" and 1996 has ODBDII, that helps much more in troubleshooting; it even has a Code for a loose gas cap!
We have a 96, bought it new in May 96 and basically, we "over-maintain" it...meaning 3k mile oil/filter changes & ***** all filters changed, etc.. using Ford's severe duty schedule; see a Link at end of reply
One of the most reliable daily drivers and beach run/light off road vehicles we've have ever had (incl the ex 78).
Still, we had minor problems that we addressed quickly.
Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:
- oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet® Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and undercoat/paint by Ford
- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight
- auto tranny - E4OD had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing
- rust in inner rear fender lips, bottom of B pillars and bottom of tailgate (fender lips are rusting due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) and 1/4 panel that lets moisture & debris in the seam) - A Bronco may need extensive & $$$ patch or full panel replacements...
check tg drains for clogs/rust..check weather seals, esp the outer ws on glass
- radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings
- ball joints.. costly if not DIY
- Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module (PSOM in 92-96), make sure it works; look for a waver in the needle at highway speeds; most get yard units for DIY
- look for some maint records or contact a dealer to see what maint was done to it a Ford dealership in the past (need VIN)
or on-line dealer service record summaries (Ford is adding entries now), etc. at Ford myford.fordvehicles.com (need VIN) & must register if you haven't already for your other Fords.
If no maint records are avail; check and replace if needed all filters and fluids.
Esp if it is an Auto tranny; fluid level; when at norm op temp; after running thru all gears & reverse; no burnt toast or whitish (water) deposits on dip stick.
Car Fax is ok, but they did NOT list over $5k in single accident damages on 3 of our past vehicles; & our ex-92 Van had less mileage listed than when we sold it according to a CarFax report 2 years later... they did nothing after we contacted them.
- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.
- roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)
- emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube; buy locally or from pciinc.com
- radiator core supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side, PIA to replace
- body mounts and fram rust
For a 96 get it checked for codes free at Parts Stores if you don't diy; For pre 96 with EFI do a SELF TEST - my pal BroncoJoe at
a Self Test by BroncoJoe19 do the KOEO = Key On Engine Off portion first & Remember to have engine @ Normal Operating Temperature before doing the KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) portion
miesk5 NOTE, The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks; miesk5 NOTE, The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks. Self-Test Output (STO) is the Pin in the Lt gray Connector and Signal Return Ground (SIGRET) is Pin E in black Connector; The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. then; turn off all accesories/lights, etc. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual), release clutch. Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first. For Key On Engine Running (KOER) portion, the engine has to be @ normal operating temp. Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.
- transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually usually a broken travel stop or the motor connector is fouled, etc.
Also the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that someone removed it.
Same for Amber ABS lamp in Instr Panel.. The 4-wheel anti-lock brake system is self monitoring. When the ignition switch is placed in the RUN position, the anti-lock brake electronic control module will perform a preliminary self check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a momentary illumination of the amber ABS warning light in the instrument cluster. During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake electronic control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations.
In most malfunctions of the anti-lock brake system, the amber ABS warning light will be illuminated. However, most malfunctions are recorded as a coded number in the anti-lock brake electronic control module memory and assist in pinpointing the component needing service. Our module blew the micropprcessors two years ago and two yard modules were bad..No returns so I'm running without 4WABS, just like the old days.
Suggest you buy the official FORD EVTM, Service manual CD from E bay or Steve83 (use the search here for him and use the e mail function to contact him); it is the BEST under $15.00 or so thAng you can get to service and repair your Bronco!
The Owner's Manual is avail on e bay, but the 96 version is almost 100% equal
Get it for free from FORD; myford.fordvehicles.com (need VIN) & must register if you haven't already for your other Fords.
or
Owners Guide (Manual) for any Bronco/Ford truck & other Ford vehicles, get a free download for 96 to current year; includes Scheduled Maintenance Guide
Source: by Ford via fleet.ford.com @ https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp
We here can help you on most if not all Smog issues.
Jeff at the Bronco Graveyard has offered a 2% discount to members of The BroncoZone for on line orders. To get your discount, enter the discount code BZMEMBER. Also you must include your BroncoZone User Name with the order.
http://broncograveyard.com
GL!
Last edited by a moderator:
Wow your informed lol thanks for all that actually I'm thinking of getting a f350 superduty donor truck and doing a 7.3 powerstroke full swap tcase ecu tra s engine harness drive train suspension ect I had one question about diesels if I could I've love diesel trucks forever but I'm not to I for
I'm not to informed on there exhaust systems do you hav u use manifolds or do they make some sort of turbo header
I'm not to informed on there exhaust systems do you hav u use manifolds or do they make some sort of turbo header
yo
look in my broncolinks.com site for some 7.3 swaps into Broncos
EDIT; here is the Diesel Section; http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=834
Here is a vg article on 7.3L & 6.0L Installation in Two 93's (owned by David C) Source: by David K
as well as two other 7.3 install Links
and some 7.3 tech info, such as 7.3L (DI Turbo) Diagnostics Guide for 95-96 (447KB)
look in my broncolinks.com site for some 7.3 swaps into Broncos
EDIT; here is the Diesel Section; http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=834
Here is a vg article on 7.3L & 6.0L Installation in Two 93's (owned by David C) Source: by David K
as well as two other 7.3 install Links
and some 7.3 tech info, such as 7.3L (DI Turbo) Diagnostics Guide for 95-96 (447KB)
Last edited by a moderator:
