Correct wiring for starter solenoid Help!!

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BlueLine984

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Okay Bronco wiring Guru's - I SERIOUSLY need to fix this damn hillbilly f-upd wiring! I have to jump the solenoid to get the damn thing to start then pull the starter wire off the solenoid to keep it from constantly engaging the starter...WELL, until yesterday when the starter took a crap and the bendix gear broke off a tooth

 
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BlueLine984

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I've read that entire thread front to back - in looking at my wires coming from the main harness (ripped back a bunch of the covering) I located the Red/blue tracer FINALLY. The only issue I see now is trying to figure out why my starter keeps engaging with the messed up wiring that was already affixed to the solenoid. I actually bought one like the one SeaBronc posted that's round with the terminals on top to see if that'll do it. Pretty sure my starter had a short in it too which kept it cycling so we shall see what happens now!



Now all I need to do is sort through this other mess of crap and figure out what goes to what.

As always - thanks for your reply!

 

miesk5

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Yo Nate,

Forgot to mention that itis probably listed as a relay in all data.

Starter fender mounted relay is an electrically operated "switch" used to connect the windings in the starter motor to the battery. The relay consists of a coil, plunger and contact disc. When the coil is connected to battery power through the ignition switch, it becomes an electromagnet. The magnetic force draws the plunger into the coil core. A disc connected to the plunger contacts the relay terminal, completing the battery to starter.

Starter Solenoid is the device mounted to the starter especially in later years.

 It performs two functions. It shifts the starter drive pinion into engagement with the flywheel ring gear and connects the starter motor to the positive side of the battery.

The drive pinion is shifted through a lever which is connected to the solenoid plunger. The electrical circuit between the starter B and M terminals is closed by a contact disc which is also attached to the solenoid plunger.  The r

 

miesk5

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Yo Nate,

Check for battery voltage on that red/light blue wire with ignition switch off. 
If it has battery voltage suspect ignition switch (not the ignition key's cylinder) or its actuator rod inside steeriing column.

Ignition Switch Mechanical Test
NOTE: Accessories that fail to operate with the key in RUN, or that remain on when the key is turned off, may be the result of a misadjusted ignition switch rather than a malfunctioning ignition switch. Refer to Ignition Switch in the Adjustments portion of this section.
NOTE: Do not apply lubricant to the inside of the ignition switch.
Test the ignition system mechanical operation by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder through all positions of the ignition switch. The movement should feel smooth with no sticking or binding. The ignition system should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return). If sticking or binding is encountered, check for the following:
burrs on the ignition switch lock cylinder
binding ignition switch lock cylinder
shroud rubbing against ignition switch lock cylinder
burrs or foreign material around the rack-and-pinion actuator in the housing of the ignition switch lock cylinder
insufficient **** on actuator
binding ignition switch

Ignition Lock Cylinder Adjustment & Switch Pin-Out &!Logic Testing by Seabronc @ http://broncozone.com/topic/7243-ignition-switch-adjustment-proceedure/

 
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BlueLine984

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The switch is toast - has been for a hot minute; I'm replacing it again today and I'll check the continuity on that red/blue when I get the new starter put into it.

Out of sheer curiosity, there's a second set of wires running into the steering column itself that come out of a half moon shaped connector. What do those go to?

 

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