jonski
New member
I ran a code test on my 88 with a 351 and came up with....21, 24, and 32. Anyone else have these codes and if so, how did you fix them?
Codes
- Thread starter jonski
- Start date
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American Rebel
4x4 Trail Master
I have a repair manual with the codes and their description.
1.) Code #21- ECT sensor signal out of normal range
Failure Description- The computer was unable to get information from this sensor that falls within the pre-programmed limits.
Where this sensor is located: The ECT stands for Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. The sensor is located on the lower intake manifold in between the distributor and the throttle body. You will need to remove the intake hoses that run to your air box in order to see it.
The usual method of repair is just to replace the sensor. :excl: Be careful when removing this sensor, as the coolant could be hot and can burn you :excl:
2.)Code #24- ACT sensor out of self test range.
Failure description: Sensor signal out of normal range, possible bad sensor.
Where this sensor is located: The ACT stands for Air Charge Temperature sensor. This sensor is located to the right of the upper intake manifold right in the lower intake manifold itself. It has a black connector, and this sensor is in between the fuel rail and the intake manifold.
This sensor acts like a resistor and varies depending on the temperature of the air entering the engine.
In a sensor case, you might just wanna replace it to be safe.
3.) Code #32- EVP voltage below closed limit.
Where this sensor is located: The EVP stands for EGR Valve Position sensor. It is the white thing on top of the EGR that has 4 wires running to it. According to my repair manual, it is saying that the best method of fixing this problem or code is to replace the sensor.
This sensor tells the engine how much exhaust gas is entering the engine, so it can either ****** timing or advance it. When the EGR is opened, usually operated by intake manifold vacuum, it allows exhaust gas to re-circulate back into the engine, and burned again to reduce emissions. It has three screws holding the white sensor on, as you DO NOT need to remove the EGR itself. Remember, do not lose the screws that hold the sensor on, because they are tiny.
I hope all this information helps, and I cite My Haynes Repair manual as a source of information. If you wish to know any more on how to test or replace these sensors, then just let me know, I'll be glad to help.
1.) Code #21- ECT sensor signal out of normal range
Failure Description- The computer was unable to get information from this sensor that falls within the pre-programmed limits.
Where this sensor is located: The ECT stands for Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. The sensor is located on the lower intake manifold in between the distributor and the throttle body. You will need to remove the intake hoses that run to your air box in order to see it.
The usual method of repair is just to replace the sensor. :excl: Be careful when removing this sensor, as the coolant could be hot and can burn you :excl:
2.)Code #24- ACT sensor out of self test range.
Failure description: Sensor signal out of normal range, possible bad sensor.
Where this sensor is located: The ACT stands for Air Charge Temperature sensor. This sensor is located to the right of the upper intake manifold right in the lower intake manifold itself. It has a black connector, and this sensor is in between the fuel rail and the intake manifold.
This sensor acts like a resistor and varies depending on the temperature of the air entering the engine.
In a sensor case, you might just wanna replace it to be safe.
3.) Code #32- EVP voltage below closed limit.
Where this sensor is located: The EVP stands for EGR Valve Position sensor. It is the white thing on top of the EGR that has 4 wires running to it. According to my repair manual, it is saying that the best method of fixing this problem or code is to replace the sensor.
This sensor tells the engine how much exhaust gas is entering the engine, so it can either ****** timing or advance it. When the EGR is opened, usually operated by intake manifold vacuum, it allows exhaust gas to re-circulate back into the engine, and burned again to reduce emissions. It has three screws holding the white sensor on, as you DO NOT need to remove the EGR itself. Remember, do not lose the screws that hold the sensor on, because they are tiny.
I hope all this information helps, and I cite My Haynes Repair manual as a source of information. If you wish to know any more on how to test or replace these sensors, then just let me know, I'll be glad to help.
jonski
New member
Thanks for the great info...I will do some checking now.
