Check Engine Light Codes

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51504broncos

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Hello,

I am looking for some help on this.....anyone? Thanks in advance...

Well, I am still having issues with my Bronco. I have done the following things since our first discussion. I have replaced the O2 Sensors, replaced the PCM, replaced the Fuel Filter and removed and cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor. I have also ran 2 cans of Seafoam thru the system. The most recent change is the fuel filter. I cleared the code after replacing the filter and the check engine light has come back on giving me the following 2 codes.

PO171 Bank 1 lean

PO174 Bank 2 lean

I have looked for a vacuum leak and cannot find one to the best of my knowledge. I am leaning towards replacing the Mass Air Flow Sensor as my next step but quite frankly I am kind of stumped. Can you offer any suggestions or assistance. I can tell you that the Bronco is running lean for sure and down on power. I especially notice it when on the freeway and I go to put my foot into it....it is just bogging down and feels restricted. I also notice that there are times when I start the truck that it acts like it wants to stall out. I shut it off, turn the AC switch to off and restart it and it usually starts and smoothes out. Do you have a diagram of the Vacuum line layout in the 96 just so I can make sure I am checking all possible areas? If so could you include it with your reply? Thank you for your help.

Regards,

Bryan

 

muddrivermike

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I can tell you a couple things that may help..Your mass air flow with a scanner is supposed to read 4 to 7 grams a second at idle and warmed up. If its reading too high it will lean out the mixture. Also check your fuel pressure. I dont remember the exact Psi but usually 55-65 psi is what it is supposed to be at. Another thing could be, is a clogged cat convertor restricting the exhaust. Ive also found the EGRs sometimes hung up a little and letting exhaust into the intake leaning it out also. Obviously trying to give you a diag online isnt exact. Lol Maybe others will chime in with more info..Good luck

 
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Rons beast

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Hey Bryan,

Ditto Mud on his suggestions. You can attach a vacuum guage to a manifold vacuum port. If the guage reads below about 17, and drops farther than that when raising engine RPM to about 2500, then you have a clogged convertor, or some exhaust restriction. A good vacuum of 18 to 22 is normal.

I too chased those codes. I did all the same things you did. A new EGR valve took care of them for about a month. (After almost 175K miles it was due anyway.) The codes were gone for good only afer I changed my MAF sensor.

Good Luck

 
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51504broncos

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Thanks a million for the tips guys....will update with what I come up with.

regards,

Bryan

 

Bully Bob

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Another thought.,

I had that same code on my F-150. They wanted a fortune for the sensor. As I wined.., the clerk said "TRY THE MAF SENSOR SPRAY." I thought "ya right"..!

I got it (couple $$) & sprayed.., the code came back.

I took the tunnel apart & removed the parts & sprayed the heck out-a-things..!

THE CODE NEVER CAME BACK..!! :eek: /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> I would not have believed it if I didn't see it myself. :-B

Worth a try....?

 

miesk5

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yo, Great info BOB!!

and to add, altho late;

DTC P0171, P0172, P0174 & P0175, P1130, P1131, P1132, P1150, P1151, P1152; 181, 189 (Fuel system lean, Bank 1 or 2), 179, 188 (Fuel system rich, Bank 1 or 2); 171, 172, 173 (HO2S11 lack of switching, Bank 1); 175, 176, 177 (HO2S21 lack of switching, Bank 2); 184, 185 (MAF higher/lower than expected); 186, 187 (Injector pulse width higher/lower than expected) & Possible Causes in MAF Contamination TSB 98-23-10 for 94-96; Symptoms: Lack of Power, Spark Knock/Detonation, Buck/**** Hesitation/Surge on Acceleration; read more

Source: by miesk5

Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Illuminated - DTCs P0171, P0172, P0174, P0175 may be stored in memory

OBDII DTCs

P0171, P0174 (Fuel system lean, Bank 1 or 2)

P0172, P0175 (Fuel system rich, Bank 1 or 2)

P1130, P1131, P1132, (HO2S11 lack of switching, Bank 1)

P1150, P1151, P1152, (HO2S21 lack of switching, Bank 2)

OBDI DTCs

181, 189 (Fuel system lean, Bank 1 or 2)

179, 188 (Fuel system rich, Bank 1 or 2)

171, 172, 173 (HO2S11 lack of switching, Bank 1)

175, 176, 177 (HO2S21 lack of switching, Bank 2)

184, 185 (MAF higher/lower than expected)

186, 187 (Injector pulse width higher/lower than expected)

NOTE: DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. IT WILL ERASE KEEP ALIVE MEMORY AND RESET LONG TERM FUEL TRIM AND BARO TO THEIR STARTING/BASE VALUES. THE BARO PARAMETER IDENTIFICATION DISPLAY (PID) IS USED FOR THIS DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE. ALL OBDII APPLICATIONS HAVE THIS PID AVAILABLE. THERE ARE SOME OBDI VEHICLES THAT DO NOT HAVE THE BARO PID, FOR THESE VEHICLES OMIT THE BARO CHECK AND REFER ONLY TO STEPS 2, 3, AND 4 IN THE DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE.

1. Look at the BARO PID. Refer to the Barometric Pressure Reference Chart in this article. At sea level, BARO should read about 159 Hz (29.91 in. Hg). As a reference, Denver, Colorado at 1524 meters (5000 ft.) altitude should be about 144 Hz (24.88 in. Hg.). Normal learned BARO variability is up to ±6 Hz (±2 in. Hg.). If BARO indicates a higher altitude than you are at (7 or more Hz lower than expected), you may have MAF contamination. If available, Service Bay Diagnostic System (SBDS) has a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor that can be used as a barometric pressure reference. Use "MAP/BARO" test under "Powertrain," "Testers and Meters." Ignore the hookup screen. Connect GP2 to the reference MAP on the following screen.

NOTE: REMEMBER THAT MOST WEATHER SERVICES REPORT A LOCAL BAROMETRIC PRESSURE THAT HAS BEEN CORRECTED TO SEA LEVEL. THE BARO PID, ON THE OTHER HAND, REPORTS THE ACTUAL BAROMETRIC PRESSURE FOR THE ALTITUDE THE VEHICLE IS BEING OPERATED IN. LOCAL WEATHER CONDITIONS (HIGH AND LOW PRESSURE AREAS) WILL CHANGE THE LOCAL BAROMETRIC PRESSURE BY SEVERAL INCHES OF MERCURY (±3 Hz, ±1 in. Hg.).

NOTE: BARO IS UPDATED ONLY WHEN THE VEHICLE IS AT HIGH THROTTLE OPENINGS. THEREFORE, A VEHICLE WHICH IS DRIVEN DOWN FROM A HIGHER ALTITUDE MAY NOT HAVE HAD AN OPPORTUNITY TO UPDATE THE BARO VALUE IN KAM. IF YOU ARE NOT CONFIDENT THAT BARO HAS BEEN UPDATED, PERFORM THREE OR FOUR HEAVY, SUSTAINED ACCELERATIONS AT GREATER THAN HALF-THROTTLE TO ALLOW BARO TO UPDATE.

2. On a fully warmed up engine, look at Long Term Fuel Trim at idle, in Neutral, A/C off, (LONGFT1 and/or LONGFT2 PIDs). If it is more negative than -12%, the fuel system has learned lean corrections which may be due to the MAF sensor over-estimating air flow at idle. Note that both Banks 1 and 2 will exhibit negative corrections for 2-bank system. If only one bank of a 2-bank system has negative corrections, the MAF sensor is probably not contaminated.

3. On a fully warmed up engine, look at MAF voltage at idle, in Neutral, A/C off (MAF V PID). If it's 30% greater than the nominal MAF V voltage listed in the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) Diagnostic Value Reference Charts for your vehicle, or greater than 1.1 volts as a rough guide, the MAF sensor is over-estimating air flow at idle.

4. If at least two of the previous three steps are true, proceed to disconnect the MAF sensor connector. This puts the vehicle into Failure Mode and Effects Management (FMEM). In FMEM mode, air flow is inferred by using rpm and throttle position instead of reading the MAF sensor. (In addition, the BARO value is reset to a base/unlearned value.) If the lean driveability symptoms go away, the MAF sensor is probably contaminated and should be replaced. If the lean driveability symptoms do not go away, go to the PC/ED Service Manual for the appropriate diagnostics.

NOTE:

DUE TO INCREASINGLY STRINGENT EMISSION/OBDII REQUIREMENTS, IT IS POSSIBLE FOR SOME VEHICLES WITH MAF SENSOR CONTAMINATION TO SET FUEL SYSTEM DTCs AND ILLUMINATE THE MIL WITH NO DRIVEABILITY CONCERNS. DISCONNECTING THE MAF ON THESE VEHICLES WILL, THEREFORE, PRODUCE NO IMPROVEMENTS IN DRIVEABILITY. IN THESE CASES, IF THE BARO, LONGFT1, LONGFT2, AND MAF V PIDs INDICATE THAT THE MAF IS CONTAMINATED, PROCEED TO REPLACE THE MAF SENSOR.

After replacing the MAF sensor, disconnect the vehicle battery (5 minutes, minimum) to reset KAM, or on newer vehicles, use the "KAM Reset" feature on the New Generation Star (NGS) Tester and verify that the lean driveability symptoms are gone.

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE

WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY

OASIS CODES: 206000, 610000, 610500, 610600, 610700, 611000, 611500, 612000, 612500, 614000, 614500, 614600, 698298

Also, a shorter version is @

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0174

Possible solutions include:

•In the vast majority of cases, simply cleaning the MAF sensor does the trick. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling

•Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary

•Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure

more @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=981

such as,

Cleaning; "...One of the most common problems, with MAF Sensor equipped Ford (Mercury and Lincoln) vehicles, is that the MAF Sensor’s Hot Wires will get dirty (contaminated). Not only that, in some cases this condition will light up your Check Engine Light with a P0171 or P0174 (lean A/F mixture) Code..." read more

Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com

Description & Operation, Depiction & Parts Break-Out Diagram in a 96; "...The mass air flow sensor (MAF sensor) (12B579) is located between the engine air cleaner (ACL) (9600) and the throttle body (9E926). The mass air flow sensor uses a hot wire sensing element to measure the amount of air entering the engine. Air passing over the hot wire causes it to cool. The mass air flow sensor then outputs an analog voltage signal to the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) to determine the intake air mass. The powertrain control module will calculate the required fuel injector pulse width in order to provide the desired air/fuel ratio. The mass airflow sensor electronics module body element and housing are calibrated as a unit and must be serviced as a complete assembly. CAUTION: Sensing elements located in the mass airflow sensor should not be tampered with or cleaned...."

Source: by thedieselstop.com

Ford does not recommend cleaning, but....

 
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51504broncos

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Yo Miesk5,

Wow....sorry to say this but you lost me at "Hello" :wacko: ...Ok, let me give you an update.....

I have replaced the MAF Sensor and I HAVE disconnected the battery...will this ***** things up/not clear the lean condition? I can also tell you the check engine light came back on after I replaced the MAF and gave me the two same codes. This Bronco belonged to my late Father, who believe it or not, lived in Colorado. I live in Houston Texas. Going off your previous post what should I do next Miesk5?

 

Rons beast

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Bryan,

Sorry the MAS didn't do it for you.

Have you replaced the o2 sensors, or checked them? If there is an exhaust leak before the sensor you can get those codes. The ecu is getting a lean signal from both banks. Look for something common to both banks. Checked the PCV valve and the hose to it?

Good Luck

 

miesk5

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yo Bryan,

Sorry for the delay and the hard to understand Ford info on BARO etc.

Battery should not have beed diconnectd; but since you ran it long enough for PCM to "reset", and you got same Codes, it's ok..

as RON advised

Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling; if you have a "forever" type filter that needs "oiling", ensure it is not over-oiled.Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary

•Check for a dirty fuel filter (iggie) and proper fuel pressure (can get one for refundabe deposit at many parts stores)

Pressure Test Gauge Overview & pic; "...To test the fuel pressure you’ll need this tool. You will need to ***** it onto the schrader valve on the top of the fuel rail, it looks like a tire air valve stem. After attaching the fuel pressure tester, run the fuel pump for 10 seconds. Check that the pressure is within specs, and it doesn’t leakdown more than 5PSI within 60 seconds after pump shutdown..."

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50)

Pressure in a 96 with; Ignition On, Fuel Pump Running = 35.0 - 45.0 PSI; At Idle = 30.0 - 45.0 PSI (Agree and Punch in year, make/model, etc.

Source: by Airtex

My broncolinks.com site is down right now, so look for BroncoJoe19 (Joe)'s "Checking for vacuum leaks.

" here @ http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/

Look for other areas that use Vacuum hoses/or vac op devices @ http://broncozone.com/topic/22770-low-idle/

I listed area such as:

AC, heater, defroster, vent control ckt & vacuum tank (plastic ball, or an irregular box glued to the evaporator cover), under dash & lines to heat/blend/etc. doors; & HVAC vacuum reservoir;Check Valve & Tank Location pic in a 93; "...valve is about a foot down the vacuum line coming off the 'tree' on the engine Plenum. One of the lines on the check valve tee goes to the built-in reservoir on the a/c box, the other into the loom with the white tube heading for the control panel inside

Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR): check vacuum lineleaky O-rings around the fuel injectors are allowing air to leak past the seals.

worn throttle shaft

& Line to & the power brake booster

see other areas in my post

The vacuum gauge should show around 18-22 in-Hg @ idle & maintain a steady needle. Rev it up to ~2500 rpm, hold it steady, and you should see the needle drop, then slowly increase to a level close to the idle reading (though slightly lower is normal).

Suggest buying a vac gauge, best low cost test and MPG helper you can spend $ on

 

Xxxyank

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If all the above fails I'd start over again check your PCV (make sure it rattles)check your line going to it make sure it's not clogged... Then get yourself a squirt bottle put a soapy water solution in it, while the engine is running, squirt around all the vacuum lines even to the brake booster and after the maf sensor. If you hear the engine stumble, you found a leak. If you haven't cleaned the throttle body lately & there is still no change, i would take your throttle body off and clean it... Get yourself either enough soak to submerge it or 3 to 4 can of carb cleaner and clean the heck out of it.

 

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