C-Bushing install problem.

[mikeiam82]

Looking for some insight into installing the poly c bushings. I noticed my bronco had looked crooked before i disassembled it for my resto so much that i figured the frame was twisted but the frame is good. Got my frame and all the little pieces blasted and painted and now im stuck on the c bushings. Cant seem to get the radius arms to line up on the floor and ive taken them apart and put back together more than id like. Does anyone know any tricks? ive tried tightening top faster than the bottom, diagonally, and every other way. i even tried to install them opposite as what they say just in case they were stamped wrong with no luck. upon visual inspection of the dana 44 nothing seems to be bent or twisted and id rather not have to take it to a suspension/driveline shop and spend more money getting it fixed but im starting to think a slightly bent tube on the front diff is the culprit.

 

[Bully Bob]

They (C-bush.) are marked correct... they're made in a mold....the markings are in the mold. (However it's pretty easy to get'm mixed up., upside down, etc..!!)

I'll tell ya what I did..., I greased'm up..!! That helped things move & not bind. (There's no way they can poss. slip apart once clamped down.)

Going from left arm/cap to right.., back & forth, as well as alternating bolts., turning just a little at a time.

Having a helper., one person on ea. end-cap..... tightening-&-loosening as necessary to keep them even, helps.

Check me on this but it seems there is a dr. side & pass. side arm & cap.

They can't be mixed up. Nor can the the caps be swapped.

 

[mikeiam82]

i think you are correct in saying they are side specific, ill try switching them a little later. then numbers on them are different the original radius arms on my bronco were both bent so i bought a set of used from bronco connection thats why i though the front axle may be bent a little. hopefully this fixes my problem, ill update later on today i have to work on a subaru right now /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[mikeiam82]

Part numbers on the original bent radius arms are C6TA-3405A 13 GP

thats the numbers on both so im assuming this means they are the same part now this is not to say they are correct

ive been reading and there is a lot of speculation as to weather they are side specific or the same parts altogether and completely interchangeable. lots of people say they are the same but im also reading that part number C6TA-3405A 10 GP is passenger side and part number C6TA-3405A 13 GP is driver side.

The 2 used radius arms i recieved are C6TA-3405A 10GP and C6TA-3405A 24 GP. According to what ive read i have 1 correct part and its currently on the correct side and the other the 24 gp i cant figure out what it is off of. im going to try to swap them and see if the radius arms end up level with each other.

Can some of you bronco owners check out the numbers and what side (pass/Drivers) the radius arms are on? Maybe some info will help clear this up for others as well as me.

Maybe incorrect radius arms is also causing the infamous lean.

 

[mikeiam82]

i took both radius arms off and now have them with the c cups on the floor and the ends up in the air. it seems either i got another bend radius arm or they are side specific. the ends are aprox 1/2 off from each other. i am now going to try to install them on the opposite sides as i had them. when they were both install i had a 2 inch difference.

 

[Bully Bob]

Mine are both C6TA 3405 & what looks to be a W2

I can tell you this., these #'s are on the "inside" of both.

If they were switched (wrong) the #'s would be on the outside.

Also., it appears, because of their angle, if they were wrong., the ends would be too wide apart to fit in the hangar holes.

And ya.., that 1/2" off seems odd...!

 

[Bronc76]

I checked numbers on mine and both sides have 35 FoMoCo. The drivers side is on the outside and passenger side is on the inside. Looks like they are interchangeable.

 

[mikeiam82]

Got mad at work today and smashed the old radius arms straight with a block and a 14 lb mallet. im going to check them up against the other 2 later i need to take them off first. update to come soon.

 

[mikeiam82]

All 4 from the top, the farthest left is the 1 i thought was bent but i noticed its also shorter. its the part number CT6A-3405a 24 GP next is CT6A-3405a 10GP then the other 2 are CT6A-3405a 13 GP

This may be the first and last time im a customer of bronco connection. Not only did he send me an incorrect axle for my 9 inch but looks like he sent me a totally wrong radius arm.

 

[Bully Bob]

Hard to tell anything fr. the pics.... 2nd. fr. the left looks like the tip was machined. Collars look bigger on the two on the right.

Length fr. floor to top of collar would be important, I would think.

 

[mikeiam82]

its a cell phone pic and there is a significant amount of rust scale on the collars of the 2 on the right.

 

[Bully Bob]

No., the pics are clear enough. It's just that diff. lenses tend to distort.

For example, the one on the left (side view) (3/4 of the way up) appears to have a slight bow. The set on the right looks to be exactly even.

I've done 3 sets of EB "C" bushings but had no issues upon completion., so no exp. with good/bad parts.

All in all it's "by me"., no real prob. jumps out.. either set looks usable.

I can't imagine what kind of force it would take to bend one of those., being mounted in rubber & all.

If other board members don't have experience with this then;

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com does a lot of suspension mods.

You might email them those pics with a note to Jim. They will know about swapability as well.

Please do keep us posted....

UPDATE re: Toms Br. Parts in Oregon

Radius Arm, 66-77 Ford Bronco, Used

Condition: Used

Part Number: 6755

Price: $75.00

Description

Good Used Front Strut Arm for 66-77 Classic Early Broncos. Fits right or left side, 2 required per......

 

[mikeiam82]

The 2 on the right were the arms that came on the bronco when i bought it. Its a 68 body and 69 frame, small bearing rear and had the upgraded dana 44 with drums and power steering from a 75. the 2 radius arms were bowed so i had bought 2 used from bronco connection as well as a drivers side small bearing axle. This will be the first and last time i buy parts from bronco connection (www.broncoparts4u.com). After all this messing around ive found out that 1 of the radius arms he sent me was actually bent (see picture) so at work i took a sledge hammer and pounded the 2 originals as straight as i could (1 still has a slight bow so im using the other) and did a quick bolt up and just like magic the ends both touch the floor.

Now back to the small bearing drivers side axle i bought, he sends me a passenger side big bearing so i get on the phone and say hey you messed up i need a small bearing drivers side and you sent me a pass big bearing. All is well hes sending me a replacement free of charge and i get to keep the old axle because he doesnt want to pay shipping to return it. 1 week later a get a drivers side big bearing axle. :angry: Fortunately for me during all this ive found a guy i know from school who has 3 broncos and a ton of parts who lives 30 mins away from me so i call him up and we are doing a straight trade for the axle i need.

I bought my suspension lift and heater rebuild from wildhorses got the parts in a week and no hassles. i also have an order in with broncograveyard for a power steering rebuild kit and frame brace for the bracket. Both these stores have great customer service and quick response times.

Phew... little off topic but felt good to rant but problems solved /

 

[Bronc76]

Sometimes it helps just to let it all out /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[mikeiam82]

I currently have the radius arms to where 1 is on the ground and 1 is aprox 1 inch off the ground. is this acceptable or should i mess around to try to get it better?

 

[Bronc76]

Not sure if its acceptable, but if it were me, I would try to get the other one straight as possible.

 

[mikeiam82]

After many hours of work and information from all of you the problem appears to be solved, arms touch the ground evenly. When i finally get to the wheel alignment stage it will tell for sure.

 

[Bully Bob]

Wellll..., there's no real "alignment" with these EB's

Camber is set at the factory & not adjustable.

Caster is adj. with the C-bush.

TOE-IN is the only thing you can adj. & it's slight., like 1/8"

 

[mikeiam82]

Ya i know there is very little or no adjustment, im just hoping when i do take it the camber will be at least close to spec. Caster i know there is no adjustment and toe i know will be fine.