brakes and manual hub swap

[michibronc]

First, I just swapped my auto hubs out for Warn Premiums this past weekend. All seemed to go well with the exception of one thing (possibly)....

The factory auto hubs had three washers (one of which was grooved to mate with the stub axle) in front of the inner hub body. This was held in place by a c clip. There seemed to be no room for the c clip and the three washers to go back in with the new Warn hubs. So I didn't put them in. Some online instructions had said they go back in, but they simply wouldn't fit and also the Warn directions didn't say to put them back in. Was I correct in leaving them out or did I miss something? I did use the spindle nut conversion kit and torqued down properly.

2nd Question: I replaced the brake pads while I was in there. I had a tiny amount of brake fluid leak from the drivers side caliper when I was using an old pad to compress it with a c clamp. Maybe 10 - 15 drops. It doesn't seem to be continuing to leak (no puddles anyhow). Is this a huge problem? Should I look into replacing or rebuilding the caliper soon? The truck also seems to pull to that side a touch when I brake hard and that hub / rotor seems to get a little warmer than the other when I get done driving and feel in there. You can still touch the hub when you reach a finger behind the rim, but it's pretty hot to the touch. The passenger side is not quite as hot to the touch, but judging by the slight pull, it's not doing as much of the braking work. Problem?

 

[Justshootme84]

As cheap as new calipers are, I would just replace it if it's sticking or leaking. And I left a wassher out on my 84 when I swapped to manual Warn hubs. No problems in 3 years of driving.

 

[michibronc]

As cheap as new calipers are, I would just replace it if it's sticking or leaking. And I left a wassher out on my 84 when I swapped to manual Warn hubs. No problems in 3 years of driving.

JSM, thanks for the wisdom. It's probably not a bad idea to change it. I think JBG has them for $40 drivers side caliper. I think that's the right one for my '96.

Three questions remain now...

#1 Should I replace both sides at the same time?

#2 I imagine I'll have to bleed the lines when finished. I've never done that before and I don't think I have any special equip that I'd need. Is that difficult to do?

#3 Isn't there an ABS sensor mounted on the caliper? If so, are they easily broken when trying to remove for the swap?

I hate it when questions multiply - they're worse than rabbits.

 

[Billy Toppless]

First, I just swapped my auto hubs out for Warn Premiums this past weekend. All seemed to go well with the exception of one thing (possibly)....
The factory auto hubs had three washers (one of which was grooved to mate with the stub axle) in front of the inner hub body. This was held in place by a c clip. There seemed to be no room for the c clip and the three washers to go back in with the new Warn hubs. So I didn't put them in. Some online instructions had said they go back in, but they simply wouldn't fit and also the Warn directions didn't say to put them back in. Was I correct in leaving them out or did I miss something? I did use the spindle nut conversion kit and torqued down properly.

2nd Question: I replaced the brake pads while I was in there. I had a tiny amount of brake fluid leak from the drivers side caliper when I was using an old pad to compress it with a c clamp. Maybe 10 - 15 drops. It doesn't seem to be continuing to leak (no puddles anyhow). Is this a huge problem? Should I look into replacing or rebuilding the caliper soon? The truck also seems to pull to that side a touch when I brake hard and that hub / rotor seems to get a little warmer than the other when I get done driving and feel in there. You can still touch the hub when you reach a finger behind the rim, but it's pretty hot to the touch. The passenger side is not quite as hot to the touch, but judging by the slight pull, it's not doing as much of the braking work. Problem?

u no longer need the C-Lock

i did the same swap about 2months ago and so fasr no proplems without the C-Lock

 

[michibronc]

u no longer need the C-Locki did the same swap about 2months ago and so fasr no proplems without the C-Lock

Excellent to hear. Did you put the washers in and just omit the c lock or did you ditch the washers too. I kept them just in case.......

There was so little wiggle room when I did it without the whole shebang that I didn't even think to use the washers alone w/o the c clip holding them back.

Now that I think about it - that grooved washer may hold any rotating parts safely away from the outer lock nut and keep it from loosening - that is if any rotating parts actually contact the outer lock nut.

I guess the thing I'm scared about is that there's no locking pin on the outer nut like every other factory hub I've ever worked on. I don't want that sucker to come loose. 150 ft.lbs though..

Thanks for the info.

 

[Billy Toppless]

Excellent to hear. Did you put the washers in and just omit the c lock or did you ditch the washers too. I kept them just in case.......
There was so little wiggle room when I did it without the whole shebang that I didn't even think to use the washers alone w/o the c clip holding them back.

Now that I think about it - that grooved washer may hold any rotating parts safely away from the outer lock nut and keep it from loosening - that is if any rotating parts actually contact the outer lock nut.

I guess the thing I'm scared about is that there's no locking pin on the outer nut like every other factory hub I've ever worked on. I don't want that sucker to come loose. 150 ft.lbs though..

Thanks for the info.

at the very end befor the cover goes on there should have been a snap ring?

i beleve that takes the place of the C-lock

 

[miesk5]

at the very end befor the cover goes on there should have been a snap ring?i beleve that takes the place of the C-lock

here is Steve's diagram; my 96 Ford Bronco Tech CD shows same diagram and parts;

For Dana 44 Manual Hubs...

Also read Steve's Note there. :..."Manual Hub Locks

These use 3 washers (15,16,17) between the C-clip & the spindle to hold the axle stub in place. The previous design used a single thick splined shim. Before that, an outside snap-ring was used at the outer end of the axle stub. "

have to roll; cya ina few.

 

[michibronc]

here is Steve's diagram; my 96 Ford Bronco Tech CD shows same diagram and parts;For Dana 44 Manual Hubs...

Also read Steve's Note there. :..."Manual Hub Locks

These use 3 washers (15,16,17) between the C-clip & the spindle to hold the axle stub in place. The previous design used a single thick splined shim. Before that, an outside snap-ring was used at the outer end of the axle stub. "

have to roll; cya ina few.

Ahhhh... now that gives me some reassurance. Those three washers with the c clip do the same thing as the snap ring I put on the stub axle that came with the Warn Premiums. Excellent. Thank you.

 

[blkstang2002]

im planning to do the same automatic to manual locking hub swap also in my 1996 bronco. could you tell me all the parts ill need to do this swap? thanks

 

[Justshootme84]

blkstang2002, check out the diagram from Steve83's supermotors gallery, should have the part numbers for ya, JSM84

 

[blkstang2002]

hey thanks, i appreciate it.

 

[michibronc]

hey thanks, i appreciate it.

Hey blkstang. Check this thread.

 

[bassplayer07]

Excellent to hear. Did you put the washers in and just omit the c lock or did you ditch the washers too. I kept them just in case.......
There was so little wiggle room when I did it without the whole shebang that I didn't even think to use the washers alone w/o the c clip holding them back.

Now that I think about it - that grooved washer may hold any rotating parts safely away from the outer lock nut and keep it from loosening - that is if any rotating parts actually contact the outer lock nut.

I guess the thing I'm scared about is that there's no locking pin on the outer nut like every other factory hub I've ever worked on. I don't want that sucker to come loose. 150 ft.lbs though..

Thanks for the info.

I'm sure you already know this but make sure you grease it and don't over tighten them. I had a guy install some Warn hubs onto my bronco while I was outta town about a year and a half ago. Been driving it for about 7k miles now and just ran into a big prob with my front end. The idiot installer over torqued the hubs and didn't grease them. Now I gotta re-do the whole driver side assembly. New spindle, bearings, and all. So i decided to give him a little chat the other day.