Brake rotor

[machmn]

hub_1.bmpOk guys

What do I got here I went to buy new one and they sold me some that was just a disc with hole for lug nuts in it do I have to pull all that 4x4 hub and stuff oof if I have an 1987 Bronco or is this hubs from something else do I buy the whole hub or what I can't seem to get a look at both together at the parts store to see what I ahve I eventually want to put manual lockouts on it but for now I need new brakes and a new power booster so PLEASE all the help I can get will help me thanx...

hub2.bmp

 

[Justshootme84]

Matt, from the pic it looks like you have the normal, two-piece hub and rotor assembly. You will need a special tool called a spanner wrench to remove the outer hub section. You can usually rent that tool at the local parts store for free. After the hub is off, the rotor comes right off. IT does look like the brakes pads are shot and grooved that rotor kinda bad. I think new rotors are like $45-$50 each. You can also get rebuilt calipers for cheap, like $25-$30 if the original ones are sticking or worn out.

IF you have a Haynes/Chilton repair manual, the procedure is outlined in the Brakes chapter. IT's worth buying one of you don't have it. There is some vital info on properly removing the hub, as a certain type has all kinds of "gut's" inside. IF you're unsure how to do it, it's worth taking to a shop for the work. But it's not a hard or labor-intensive repair. I have to do the same repair on my 86 Bronco!

Here's a pic of the hub and rotor from Steve83's superford.org gallery:

 

[Broncoholics]

Arn't the lugs the only thing holding it on? All the ones I've done I just smack the studs out and its off. Make sure you add the nuts to the studs when smacking them out. They are pressed in so it takes a good hit with a sledge. Then you can hammer the new ones in. When you tighten the wheel on they will press completely on. After driving around a few blocks re-tighten the lug bolts just incase.

 

[Justshootme84]

The 5 studs for the lug nuts are the only thing holding the rotor to the hub, but you have to remove the hub from the axle first. The outer wheel bearing is inside the hub portion, and held onto the axle by a lock nut and the guts for the auto-locking hub. When re-installing the new rotor and old hub, it's critical to tighten the locknut for the wheel bearing just right. Too loose and the wheel wobbles, too tight and you ruin the bearing. Genreally, it's one full turn of the wheel&tire. Consult the HAynes manual or look in the "Tech Articles" forum for some links to general Bronco repairs.

 

[machmn]

The 5 studs for the lug nuts are the only thing holding the rotor to the hub, but you have to remove the hub from the axle first. The outer wheel bearing is inside the hub portion, and held onto the axle by a lock nut and the guts for the auto-locking hub. When re-installing the new rotor and old hub, it's critical to tighten the locknut for the wheel bearing just right. Too loose and the wheel wobbles, too tight and you ruin the bearing. Genreally, it's one full turn of the wheel&tire. Consult the HAynes manual or look in the "Tech Articles" forum for some links to general Bronco repairs.

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I went to Oreilly's and seen both and I'm going to buy the whole hub unit like I alredy gad a manual lockout system then I don't have to buy the conv. kit to put my warn premiums on I just go from ther ethe way I understood him so I should be setup for the trails then with a 3" body lift and 35's and possibly some suspension lift and changes I should be ready to wheel right???

Also when I was loooking at the manual rotor it did not have the part that sticks out the frathest that all the guts as ya called them is in or where the actual lockout would go so whats up with that do i use my old one or what ya know guys I'm completely lost on 4x4 stuff I'm very mechanical savvy but 4x4 stumps me just don't know????

 

[Justshootme84]

The "hub" or outer section that is separate from the brake rotor is the same for manula or auto-locking hubs. On the auto's, there is a silver/chrome cap held on by 3 or 5 allen screws. So, if you have auto's and want to switch to manual's, you still use the same hub. That is the part laying off to the bottom-right in the pic I posted. About the only reson to get a new one would be a galled wheel bearing that can't be removed, or excess wear on the hub. IF you're going to O'reilly Auto Parts for help, find the dude/ gal with some knowledge. There's at least one at each store, the others let's just say are not familiar with Ford 4WD parts. My local store has a dude named "Don", with a tricked-out F-150.