Bought a 94, very good codition, no rust, paint like new.5.8L power everything it all works! But, couple of problems check engie light is on, battery light is on (charging system and battery checks out good though, air bag light is flashing. the 94 wasn't OBD II ready correct? Is there any other ways to check/fix without going to shop? I am goig to have a blast with this vehicle.
Bought another bronco
- Thread starter markinark
- Start date
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OK I need some assistance. It is idleing way to fast. At idle in park idling about 700 that seems way to to high. The IAC valve has been replaced, I don't think I have a Throttle position sensor if so I can't freakin find it. Any help will keep me from pulling whats left of my hair out.
congratulations on the new bronco markinark! I'm new to the zone but will say what others will sa,pull the codes. perhaps check engine light and battery light are related? A handheld obd1,obd2 tester will get your codes. {dont know when ford went to obd2} Miesk will! If you dont have to pass an emmissions test out there and the truck is running well,***** it go have fun. the check engine light is automatic failure on the e-test here in ohio.bill
Seabronc
New member
700 is not too high for an automatic transmission that is in park or neutral. In fact I wish I could get mine to run that slow with out it stalling when put in gear. What is the idle speed when you are setting with the brake on and in drive or reverse? Should be around 450 to about 500.
Good luck,
>-
Good luck,
>-Tach on dash says about 700, sounds alot higher though, in park and/or drive is 700-900. Yeah it will pull itself around pretty good. It goes into drive and reverse very hard. When I take off, it shifts into second fairly hard but then a "feelable" clunk is felt. That happens whenever I come to a stop and take off again. All other gear changes are fine. But, I did find the TPS finally, going to change it out this weekend, according to ford that is probably what is wrong, we will see. I need to change trans. fluid and filter that could solve the shifting problems. Like I mentioned earlier I just got this rig on the 16th of this month, still checking everything out. I posted 2 more questions in the "General Discussion" page also, help there would be great.
Got a code reader today, Throttle position sensor out of whack, below minimum voltage. That was the only code in the computers memory. I guess that is a good thing that it was the only thing in the computer.
BroncoJoe19
Active member
Check for a vacuum leak, that could cause a high idle.
700 is a little high, not crazy high, should be somewhere around 650.
I know that a faulty TPS can cause a high idle, but I don't think that below min voltage would do that.
IIRC it should be between 0.5 volts and 1.0 volts at idle, and near 5.0 volts at wide open throttle. You can back probe it with a digital volt meter and slowly open the throttle, (with the key on, engine off) and check to see that it gradually and SMOOTHELY goes from 1.0 to 5.0 volts.
Regarding the min voltage, that might be a crappy connection at the TPS. Sometimes just removing the connector and re-connecting it is enough of a cleaning of the contacts.
700 is a little high, not crazy high, should be somewhere around 650.
I know that a faulty TPS can cause a high idle, but I don't think that below min voltage would do that.
IIRC it should be between 0.5 volts and 1.0 volts at idle, and near 5.0 volts at wide open throttle. You can back probe it with a digital volt meter and slowly open the throttle, (with the key on, engine off) and check to see that it gradually and SMOOTHELY goes from 1.0 to 5.0 volts.
Regarding the min voltage, that might be a crappy connection at the TPS. Sometimes just removing the connector and re-connecting it is enough of a cleaning of the contacts.
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YEA!!!!! Check engine light is off, whoever put the throttle position sensor in, put it in 180 off. The pigtail out of the senor was coming out away from the IAC valve. I took off the throttle body reversed it put it back on and it works fine, engine is idleing down where it is supposed to be now.
Now to just figure out why 'battery' light won't go out. It went out for a few seconds today but then came right back on. I have checked almost every conection and connector but to no avail. Charging fine though. It may have to do with something on the steering column sense "airbag" is flashing 32 and cruise does not work or the horn.
Now to just figure out why 'battery' light won't go out. It went out for a few seconds today but then came right back on. I have checked almost every conection and connector but to no avail. Charging fine though. It may have to do with something on the steering column sense "airbag" is flashing 32 and cruise does not work or the horn.
BroncoJoe19
Active member
I don't know if they are on the same fuse, but I'm guessing that pulling your steering wheel is in your future. Maybe you just need to clean the contacts on your clock spring.
Remember to disconnect your battery before you pull the steering wheel. You don't want to take a chance on deploying the air bag.
Remember to disconnect your battery before you pull the steering wheel. You don't want to take a chance on deploying the air bag.
yo
DTC 32, Driver Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open; da driver's side air bag circuit has high resistance or is probably open due to a busted clock spring; a common fault due to age/usage.
This is also directly related to & Most Likely the cause for da horn & Cruise (Speed) Control problem
Air bag ckt & clock spring replacement is is basically simple to DIY with proper caution and procedure so you don't have that bag smackin' you upside yo head man.
DTC 32: Driver Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open Pinpoint Test in 1994 Bronco/Econoline/F-Series Service Manual Source: by Ford via ww2.justanswer.com
Dis-Arming Video & Connectyor Location in a 94; "...how to disarm a ford airbag. the backup power supply can still set off the airbag up to a full minute after the battery is disconnected so be sure to give it ample time to deplete.if the bag goes off on you i cannot be held responsible..."
Clock Spring Installation Video in a 94 Source: by pfun41 at youtube.com
more Links in my site under
Electrical
Air bag
DTC 32, Driver Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open; da driver's side air bag circuit has high resistance or is probably open due to a busted clock spring; a common fault due to age/usage.
This is also directly related to & Most Likely the cause for da horn & Cruise (Speed) Control problem
Air bag ckt & clock spring replacement is is basically simple to DIY with proper caution and procedure so you don't have that bag smackin' you upside yo head man.
DTC 32: Driver Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open Pinpoint Test in 1994 Bronco/Econoline/F-Series Service Manual Source: by Ford via ww2.justanswer.com
Dis-Arming Video & Connectyor Location in a 94; "...how to disarm a ford airbag. the backup power supply can still set off the airbag up to a full minute after the battery is disconnected so be sure to give it ample time to deplete.if the bag goes off on you i cannot be held responsible..."
Clock Spring Installation Video in a 94 Source: by pfun41 at youtube.com
more Links in my site under
Electrical
Air bag
