Ball Joint seized into camber sleeve - any suggestions?

[Chiron]

Hello everyone! I'm hoping maybe someone might be able to make a couple of suggestions, because I'm at my wits end with this.

Here's the full story made short (hopefully): I'm in Dayton, OH and after last winter I didn't want to drive my Grand Prix through another winter. I ended up buying a salvage title '86 Bronco XLT from a guy from Craig's list. $650 and a Texas truck up until last winter. His first winter up here, he ditched it and hit a culvert which demolished the passenger side front and rear suspension. No body or frame damage thankfully. So my buddy and I set about rebuilding the stock suspension. The rear leaf springs have been cut out and replaced (HW seized in the bushings) since the passenger side leaf was sheared. Turns out the rear end axle tube was bent too, so I have another one of those waiting to be put in from a parts yard.

Here's where my problem comes in though. In the front, the passenger side TTB was bent to all get out. We have the entire passenger side out of the vehicle, axle and all. I bought a replacement front end from a gentleman in Cincinnati, but it's a typical Ohio part, bolts and such rusted together and definitely in need of new ball joints. We got the hub, spindle, and axle off the replacement knuckle, but the ball joints are rusted together. The lower joint's nut won't even budge after a 3 foot breaker bar and gobs of GB blaster and WD-40. The upper ball joint was so bad that we had to cut the castle nut and ball joint stem off, but the remaining ball joint is seized in the camber sleeve/bushing.

If I can get this knuckle off, then I can put the original, not-so-rusty knuckle and camber bushing from the truck into this replacement TTB. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get the ball joints out or even just the knuckle off without destroying the TTB?? I'm thinking of trying a MAP/O2 torch to heat up the bottom and the loaner ball joint press to get the upper moving. What do you guys think?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Justshootme84]

Yes, I would apply the heat and use a balljoint press if the ball joint won't move. They can be a real headache sometimes. Be sure the seat isn't worn out too bad, or else the new joint may wobble on you. those lower ones seem to be the real problem most times. Good luck, JSM84

 

[Broncobill78]

Hello everyone! I'm hoping maybe someone might be able to make a couple of suggestions, because I'm at my wits end with this.
Here's the full story made short (hopefully): I'm in Dayton, OH and after last winter I didn't want to drive my Grand Prix through another winter. I ended up buying a salvage title '86 Bronco XLT from a guy from Craig's list. $650 and a Texas truck up until last winter. His first winter up here, he ditched it and hit a culvert which demolished the passenger side front and rear suspension. No body or frame damage thankfully. So my buddy and I set about rebuilding the stock suspension. The rear leaf springs have been cut out and replaced (HW seized in the bushings) since the passenger side leaf was sheared. Turns out the rear end axle tube was bent too, so I have another one of those waiting to be put in from a parts yard.

Here's where my problem comes in though. In the front, the passenger side TTB was bent to all get out. We have the entire passenger side out of the vehicle, axle and all. I bought a replacement front end from a gentleman in Cincinnati, but it's a typical Ohio part, bolts and such rusted together and definitely in need of new ball joints. We got the hub, spindle, and axle off the replacement knuckle, but the ball joints are rusted together. The lower joint's nut won't even budge after a 3 foot breaker bar and gobs of GB blaster and WD-40. The upper ball joint was so bad that we had to cut the castle nut and ball joint stem off, but the remaining ball joint is seized in the camber sleeve/bushing.

If I can get this knuckle off, then I can put the original, not-so-rusty knuckle and camber bushing from the truck into this replacement TTB. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get the ball joints out or even just the knuckle off without destroying the TTB?? I'm thinking of trying a MAP/O2 torch to heat up the bottom and the loaner ball joint press to get the upper moving. What do you guys think?

Thanks in advance!

Wow, does this sound familiar. I grew up in New England and built almost every one of my trucks there and I can't tell you how many parts I've seen that were like this. Threads rusted so badly they look melted or just plain gone. There really isn't an easy solution to your problem. When I was younger I had the time, energy & friends to tackle jobs like that with hand tools & breaker bars but eventually I learned that the best angle of attack was usually heat & air tools. Today I wouldn't even consider trying to tackle a job like that witout a torch, an air hammer & an impact wrench (at least those would be MY weapons of choice). Lord knows I understand that the investment in air tools & a compressor large enuf to use them with is a chuck of change but it's really the way to go. Heat & air tools has always been the combination that worked for me.

Edit: Jeez, these guys catch me every time. JSM84 is absolutely right, be sure the seat is ok before cranking a ball-joint in there. I have MADE that mistake and you'll kick yourself if you put it in there and all back together again before you figure it out, I sure remember how ****** off I was when I figured it out.

 

[Chiron]

Well it seems like the forum has spoken. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> I went on my lunch break and "borrowed" the ball joint press from the auto parts store, so when I go home I'll try the heat and press. I'm not so worried about the seat for the joint in this knuckled since I'm not using this rusted one, but the original one (the clean texas one) that was originally there. Thanks for the input, and confirming what I thought. I'll let you know how it goes!

 

[Chiron]

Well I was able to get the knuckle off, but no joy with the ball joint press to get them out. I ended up taking the knuckle to a shop and having them press it out, and even they had problems using their press and air tools. So now I don't feel like a weakling. They said the seats for the joints look fine to them, so I'm gonna go and get the new ball joints and see if I can't start putting it all back together then.

 

[Broncobill78]

Well I was able to get the knuckle off, but no joy with the ball joint press to get them out. I ended up taking the knuckle to a shop and having them press it out, and even they had problems using their press and air tools. So now I don't feel like a weakling. They said the seats for the joints look fine to them, so I'm gonna go and get the new ball joints and see if I can't start putting it all back together then.

When you reinstall everything it might be worth remembering that a little neversieze goes a long way.

 

[Chiron]

Well, I finally got the buggers out and got everything cleaned up. After the ball joints came out, the next worst thing was getting the radius arm bracket off the TTB. I even busted a 1 1/8" box end wrench doing it too! But now the good part is here...putting it all together with cleaned and/or fresh parts. Broncobill78, I've been making sure to use **** or neverseize type of stuff on just about everything. I remembered after I got the second or third nut and bolt together and went back and re-did those to boot.

I got the TTB and radius arm sitting back up in it last night before calling it a night and today after work I'll try to get the new radius arm bushing up in there. I'll have to post some photos soon.

- I wonder if I should change the thread topic to, Trials and Tribulations of a Suspension Rebuild or, How Not to Bust Your **** AND Your Credit Card -

 

[johnnyreb]

Hello everyone! I'm hoping maybe someone might be able to make a couple of suggestions, because I'm at my wits end with this.

Here's the full story made short (hopefully): I'm in Dayton, OH and after last winter I didn't want to drive my Grand Prix through another winter. I ended up buying a salvage title '86 Bronco XLT from a guy from Craig's list. $650 and a Texas truck up until last winter. His first winter up here, he ditched it and hit a culvert which demolished the passenger side front and rear suspension. No body or frame damage thankfully. So my buddy and I set about rebuilding the stock suspension. The rear leaf springs have been cut out and replaced (HW seized in the bushings) since the passenger side leaf was sheared. Turns out the rear end axle tube was bent too, so I have another one of those waiting to be put in from a parts yard.

Here's where my problem comes in though. In the front, the passenger side TTB was bent to all get out. We have the entire passenger side out of the vehicle, axle and all. I bought a replacement front end from a gentleman in Cincinnati, but it's a typical Ohio part, bolts and such rusted together and definitely in need of new ball joints. We got the hub, spindle, and axle off the replacement knuckle, but the ball joints are rusted together. The lower joint's nut won't even budge after a 3 foot breaker bar and gobs of GB blaster and WD-40. The upper ball joint was so bad that we had to cut the castle nut and ball joint stem off, but the remaining ball joint is seized in the camber sleeve/bushing.

If I can get this knuckle off, then I can put the original, not-so-rusty knuckle and camber bushing from the truck into this replacement TTB. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get the ball joints out or even just the knuckle off without destroying the TTB?? I'm thinking of trying a MAP/O2 torch to heat up the bottom and the loaner ball joint press to get the upper moving. What do you guys think?

Thanks in advance!

Anything is worth trying.

 

[Motoxman56]

Well, I finally got the buggers out and got everything cleaned up. After the ball joints came out, the next worst thing was getting the radius arm bracket off the TTB. I even busted a 1 1/8" box end wrench doing it too! But now the good part is here...putting it all together with cleaned and/or fresh parts. Broncobill78, I've been making sure to use **** or neverseize type of stuff on just about everything. I remembered after I got the second or third nut and bolt together and went back and re-did those to boot.

I got the TTB and radius arm sitting back up in it last night before calling it a night and today after work I'll try to get the new radius arm bushing up in there. I'll have to post some photos soon.

- I wonder if I should change the thread topic to, Trials and Tribulations of a Suspension Rebuild or, How Not to Bust Your **** AND Your Credit Card -

I’m with you on the radius arm to TTB bolts used freeze off heat and a 4’ breaker bar. I thought the breaker bar was gonna snap. Had a 4’ pipe extension on it.
One tip on a ball joint press wind it down as tight as possible then hit the end with a hammer you can hear the old ball joint squeal when it moves.