Axle wrap

[Crankin]

>- Hey everyone, I'm getting a lot of axle wrap even during normal driving situations (stop and go) I'm afraid I'm going to break a leaf spring or ruin the U-joints. With x-mas around the corner, I really don't have the extra cash to go out and buy a $400-$500 set of traction bars or ladder bars. I am a metal fabricator with a huge facility at my disposal, so I was wondering if any one knows of any cheeper traction devices out there or has any plans or measurements to build your own? [-o<

 

[mbtech2003]

i'm getting a simmilar thing in my truck and i think it's y i broke a u-joint .....their was lots of smoke before it broke b-( anyway i think it's weak leaf springs that is causing this. i'm probably gonna get stock new ones again /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[Seabronc]

You either have weak springs or you have done something that is giving you too much torque for the existing rear leaf springs. I either case you need to do something about it. I use to have a link to a great article by Dana about the subject, but they have since withdrawn the article from circulation.

Here are acouple I can find though:

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/axlewrap/

http://rockymountainsusp.com/tractionbars.htm

Good luck,

>-

 

[BLADE262US]

I built the ones on all my trucks and if you have a metal shop at your disposal your all set . I used 3X3X1/2 angle 5 inches long then took some 2x3/8 flat stock about 3 inches long and made the brackets that bolted to the frame . Then I took another set of 2X3/8 flat stock and tacked them together stacked in a block then took a 3 inch hole saw and cut the radius in one end and ground the other so it was nice and rounded and before you seperate them drill a 3/4 hole through the block about 1 inch up and centered from the rounded end now you have the brackets to weld to the rear end tubes . I used 1 inch DOM tubing and tapped the inside 3/4 16 LH one end and RH the other and then bought some 3/4 heim joints from jegs that were chrome moly and cost about $20 each . Keep the tubes under 4 ft or they wont help ya a bit keep them around 3 ft and you will not have any axle wrap and make sure the brackets you weld to the axle are not straight out the front or it will defeat the purpose . I have mine angled down not straight down but angled I could get a measurement if you like . So all together youll have around $140 in materials and they will be stronger than anything you can buy . /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[Seabronc]

I built the ones on all my trucks and if you have a metal shop at your disposal your all set . I used 3X3X1/2 angle 5 inches long then took some 2x3/8 flat stock about 3 inches long and made the brackets that bolted to the frame . Then I took another set of 2X3/8 flat stock and tacked them together stacked in a block then took a 3 inch hole saw and cut the radius in one end and ground the other so it was nice and rounded and before you seperate them drill a 3/4 hole through the block about 1 inch up and centered from the rounded end now you have the brackets to weld to the rear end tubes . I used 1 inch DOM tubing and tapped the inside 3/4 16 LH one end and RH the other and then bought some 3/4 heim joints from jegs that were chrome moly and cost about $20 each . Keep the tubes under 4 ft or they wont help ya a bit keep them around 3 ft and you will not have any axle wrap and make sure the brackets you weld to the axle are not straight out the front or it will defeat the purpose . I have mine angled down not straight down but angled I could get a measurement if you like . So all together youll have around $140 in materials and they will be stronger than anything you can buy .  /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

31078[/snapback]

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Why don't you give hid a link to some pictures /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

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