'94 351....where to start??!?

[atpittman0103]

3 days ago I was doing some trucking in New Jersey and was going through some serious mud puddles. I have a 4 inch body lift with 35 inch tsl boggers so it wasnt anything the truck couldnt handle. After about 30 mins of roading i was making a u-turn and the truck stalled (shut off) going from reverse to drive. it started right back up and was running fine. 15 minutes later in the middle of a puddle it did the same thing and wouldnt fire again. I had power to everything (radio was working, windows were rolling up and down) but it wouldnt turn over. It was making a clicking noise like it was the battery but I had power to everything so i ruled that out. I got towed out and just brought it home today and no I have no power to anything. You turn the key and nothing comes on. Could it be the starter? Could it be water locked? I took off the air intake and there was a little bit of water in there but nothing serious. The battery is secure but not that secure. Could it be the battery called it quits and didnt have enough juice to start the truck? I really dont know where to begin. Any help or input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[atpittman0103]

Ok so i figured out the no power reason was because of loose terminals but now it still wont start. i have power to everything again however i think the only possible thing now is its water logged. any input on what to do? let it sit and see if it dries? anything i can disconnect to make that process go faster or more efficient? i am screwed...

 

[miesk5]

yo!

Check for any signs of water on the oil dipstick to take that mess off your mind; such as white foaming/water droplets

Does it turn over?

Any click at starter relay on passenger inner fender...?

Do you have a volt-ohm meter?

You can start cking for power @ batty..and if it does crank the starter over? If so, you should have ~10 Volts at batty (+ and -) during cranking.

Yesterday, I was greeted by a dead cell.. had 0 volts while teying to crank..then pOp! up to 10. or so and it turned over and started.

A guess is the batty first; ez to ck

then ck grounds at Engine to frame, batty to same area and back up to the ground metal strap to intake manifold and over to firewall.

Another thAng is the MLPS switch @ tranny...since "stalled (shut off) going from reverse to drive"...

but, do batty and grounds first.

 

[atpittman0103]

yo!Check for any signs of water on the oil dipstick to take that mess off your mind; such as white foaming/water droplets

Does it turn over?

Any click at starter relay on passenger inner fender...?

Do you have a volt-ohm meter?

You can start cking for power @ batty..and if it does crank the starter over? If so, you should have ~10 Volts at batty (+ and -) during cranking.

Yesterday, I was greeted by a dead cell.. had 0 volts while teying to crank..then pOp! up to 10. or so and it turned over and started.

A guess is the batty first; ez to ck

then ck grounds at Engine to frame, batty to same area and back up to the ground metal strap to intake manifold and over to firewall.

Another thAng is the MLPS switch @ tranny...since "stalled (shut off) going from reverse to drive"...

but, do batty and grounds first.

ok i checked the oil dipstick and there was no white foaming and no water droplets.

the truck does not turn over

there is a def. click at the starter relay when i try to turn the truck on.

i dont have a voltometer but i get power to everything in the truck so wouldnt that mean the grounds and battery in general are ok?

where can i find the mlps switch??

 

[miesk5]

yo!

Good that no water is in engine!

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there is a def. click at the starter relay when i try to turn the truck on.

Before going under to ck out the starter get a cheap voltohmeter from a local store such as WallyMart to check for cranking voltage; or pull batty and have it tested at same store or anywhere for FREE...

If you want to go under, ck all cables to starter.

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i dont have a voltometer but i get power to everything in the truck so wouldnt that mean the grounds and battery in general are ok?

YES, but a dead cell in battery would give you power for most accessories and lighting, but fail to deliver the amps needed to turn the starter

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where can i find the mlps switch??

it's on tranny, but since you have the relay clicking, rule it out.

So, if batty tests good then you'll need the VOM to do some pin-point testing; this is from the FORD PCED (repair manual that dealership t3echs use)

Pin-Point Testing in 92-96 by guardcows.com

You' start at 96_Start.pdf

then see that you have to go thru Pinpoint Test B

Under

B2 MANUALLY CRANK STARTER;

Some info by Seviw (Sandy) on this since the FORD manual does not give you a diagram in the troubleshooting section instructions

He uses a pushbutton switch in the man start tester but a jumper wire will do the same

One of the connectors is on the +12 pole, starter B+ terminal

the other is on the energizing contact (pull off the small wire at the top of the solenoid, hook up there). THIS IS solenoid S terminal.

You can see the connector I pulled off near the tapered end of the red connector (the black L shaped thing).

Connect one end of a jumper wire to the starter B+ terminal and momentarily touch the other end to solenoid S terminal. SEE ABOVE PIC

an overview of the starting sys and pictorial;

92-96 PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction) by Steve83

For the Relay depiction..."...the only difference is that the battery wire & all the fusible links go to the relay instead of to the solenoid...& 92-96 is functionally identical..."

and see how the MLPS is in-line ckt-wise w/relay and ign switch?