93" Bronco XLT front end rims getting hot???

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monster

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Hey all,

I'm new to the forums and I have problem with my 93' XLT. It seems my front end rims get quite hot as well as the hubs, what is causing this? I've redone the brakes, rotors checked all the **** and fittings on the front end.... I'm stumped, what am I missing?

Thanks

 

Seabronc

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Are they hot to the point of smoking? or just hot? If just hot, that is normal due to the pads rubbing on the rotor and normal breaking to stop that 5500 lb. brick 0:) .

Welcome to the Zone, post some pictures.

:)>-

 

Justshootme84

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Check the center hubs. If the wheel bearings are bad these will be rather hot to the touch. IF it's only the rims getting warm, check the pad alignment like posted. New pads and new rotors will have very little clearance until they break-in and wear down a bit.

 

murph

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I just replaced the pads, rotors, and calipers and my hubs get fairly hot also. I'm hoping it's not the bearings.

 

jerseydevil

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Hey all,I'm new to the forums and I have problem with my 93' XLT. It seems my front end rims get quite hot as well as the hubs, what is causing this? I've redone the brakes, rotors checked all the **** and fittings on the front end.... I'm stumped, what am I missing?

Thanks

24463[/snapback]


Probably overtight bearings, assuming the calipers are floating properly.

My 2 cents

 

cowboydan

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i trashed a new set of bearings last year. one side i had too tight, and the other side was too loose. i ran like that for only a couple days and they were trashed. it sounded like brake noise, but i had new brakes as well. cost me an extra 100 bucks for the dammage i caused.

 

gungho

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Its normal monster. My truck has been doing that since i got it. Disc brakes generate a lot more heat than drums. The only way to try to fix this problem is to put crossdrilled rotors on, and keep a bucket of ice water handy. Don't worry about it it is nothing major.

 

Seabronc

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As far as the bearing possibility goes, did you torque the spindle nuts according to the book. The first one is supposed to be torqued to 50 ft. lb. then backed off to allow the locking washer to fit over the *** in it. Then the second one should be torqued to 150 ft. lb. If that is done right the bearings will be set properly and as long as you packed them properly with grease they will be just fine.

Good luck,

:)>-

 

Justshootme84

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Too much heat from the brakes will warp the rotors. The rims and hub should be no more than slightly warm. IF you can't hold you hand against either one for more than a few seconds (don't burn your hand), you need to adjust the pads or bearings.

 

gungho

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Tell me how you adjust the pads because i am curious, maybe i'm missing something, but i didn't think that the pads were adjustable

thanx

 

Justshootme84

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With shims. IF you have new pads and new rotors like I did, you may have to remove the shims behind the pads. Save them though for the next time you get new pads and re-surface the rotor.

 

Seabronc

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I agree with you, Justshootme84, that if he had shims to adjust for thin rotors and put them back in when replacing the rotors and calipers, the pads might be too tight and cause overheating :angry: .

On the other hand, I have had several trucks with front discs and they all get hot. Hard or continuous braking such as you can easily experience around here going down some of the hills or in heavy stop and go traffic will heat those suckers up just fine :rolleyes: . Infact that might make them real uncomfortable to touch, it might even hurt. On the other hand if they are getting real hot just driving around on flat land and with light braking then that may be a problem.

Looks like there have been a lot of good suggestions here, but we never asked a key question. Under what operating conditions is this happening? Running down to the corner store and back?

:)>-

 

Justshootme84

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Very good post, SeaBronc!!! I go through front brake pads on my Chebbie every 30K miles due to hard driving, but have only had one warped rotor. That was due to a lughead ata tire shop overtightening the lug nuts. IF the rotors are getting red hot under normal use and warping, maybe the slotted units are what's needed. Or if the wheels are getting very hot on a daily basis, the rotors will not last long, and more frequent inspection needs to be done. And if the hub gets so hot it burns the grease, you will have no trouble going thru wheel bearings really fast.

 

gungho

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With shims. IF you have new pads and new rotors like I did, you may have to remove the shims behind the pads. Save them though for the next time you get new pads and re-surface the rotor.
24802[/snapback]

I had no idea there was supposed to be shims, i've owned three fords, and none of them have ever had the shims. Could that be my clicking problem in the front drivers side of my truck?

Thanx justshootme

 

Seabronc

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I had no idea there was supposed to be shims, i've owned three fords, and none of them have ever had the shims. Could that be my clicking problem in the front drivers side of my truck?
Thanx justshootme

24824[/snapback]

Did you install the anti rattle clips for the inner shoe?

:)>-

 

gungho

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Did you install the anti rattle clips for the inner shoe?
:)>-

24828[/snapback]

yes it is installed i double checked yesterday, but it still clicks untill you apply the brakes

 

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