'89 Bronco cranks but will not start

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sampsellj

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Ok, well this is a lengthy story, but I think it wouldn't hurt to tell it to help paint the whole picture.  So a few months back I bought an '89 Bronco with the 5.0 302.  About a month in to owning it, with no problems at all, it died while driving down the road.  Turned over fine, but would not start.  Had it towed back to the house and started working on it.  In hind site I should have done more detailed diagnostics, but I just started replacing things.  So, I started with the fuel pump on the frame rail which did not solve the problem.  I figured it was probably time for a tune up anyway, so I replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, and put in a new coil.  Still did not fix the problem.  Replaced the ECM and fuel relays.  Still would not start.  Should also mention that throughout this whole process, at no time did I hear the fuel pump kick in for the 1-2 seconds like I used to.  Turns out after all of that work, it was a 20g fusible link from the harness near the battery.  I bought a new fusible link, spliced and soldered everything, and what do you know....fired up and ran like a champ.  Engine actually sounded better than ever, so the tune up helped, but now it was time for the next problem....

Now that the truck was running I wanted to take it for a test drive.  I push down on the brake pedal and it goes down to the floor.  I pop the hood and the hard brake line that goes from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve is leaking at the proportioning valve due to a hole caused by rust.  I also noticed a trail of corrosion running down the back of the master cylinder on to the booster.  I figured that the seal on the back of the master cylinder might be leaking, so I went ahead and replaced it.  I then ran all new hard lines from the master cylinder, to the proportioning valve, then new lines to each of the front brakes, and replaced the rubber brake hoses to each caliper.  I bled the lines, hopped in to take it for a test drive and it won't start.  I pulled a plug wire and connected it to a spare spark plug and verified that I had spark when the engine cranked.  I then took a rag with a small ***** driver and put it on the injector rail (I think that is what it is called) where there is that valve that looks like a tire inflation valve, but is actually where you can test fuel pressure.  With a rock on the ***** driver, and the rag around that valve, I turned over the engine for about one second, then checked the rag.  There was a ton of fuel on the rag, so I at least know that it is making it to the rail.  I looked all around the engine compartment and the only thing that concerns me a little is that there was a lot of brake fluid that had sprayed in a fine mist all around the relays and connections on the drivers side fender.  I wiped everything off, but I am not sure if there is anything that could have gotten messed up by the brake fluid.  I ran a piece of wire from the test plug (near the fuel and ECM relays) to ground and pulled engine codes.  The only two that came up were 21 and 24 which were relating to the engine not being at a sufficient temperature to perform certain tests.

At this point I really don't know what to do next.  Any suggestions?

Thanks.

'89 Bronco - 5.0L, 302 Eddie Bauer 

 

miesk5

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yo.

As you mentioned;

DTC 21 ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts; "... ECT is bad, engine not warmed up, bad thermostat, low coolant..Coolant is less than 50 deg F for KOEO, or less than 180 deg F for KOER, or greater than 250 deg F for either. If coolant temp is in proper range, suspect ECT sensor or it's connector/wiring..."

DTC 24 ACT sensor out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts remove the sensor & inspect, probably covered in carbon and replace it. Inspect wiring & Connector for corrosion/fouling

 
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sampsellj

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Hello, and thank you for the response.  I actually came across the link you posted through google before I added this thread.  Definitely a lot of useful information - thanks.  I am going to order a fuel pressure gauge and compression testing kit once I get some money.  I am inclined to believe that the problem is still electrical for some reason and was hoping that I missed something obvious.  

On the other topic of DTC 24, my temperature gauge has not worked since I have owned the vehicle.  I replaced the coolant temperature sensor, but that did not correct the problem.  Again, I think it is electrical.  I read a post somewhere about how to test circuit, but had put it on the back burner for now.  I guess now would be as good a time as any to fix this since I cannot do much else right now.

Thanks again!

 
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sampsellj

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Oh, and the noid light.....that is something else I need to add to my "to get" list so that I can do that test.  I'll add more in a week or two once I get paid.

 

miesk5

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yo,

yw!

Most parts store have a loan a tool program - refundable deposit

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/landing/page.jsp?name=loan-a-tool&intcmp=redirect-loan-a-tool

Compression Tester Gauge at http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Compression-Tester-Gauge/_/N-263y

Great Neck/Fuel pump diagnostic kit at http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Diagnostic-Loaner-Rental-Tools/_/N-26vi?target=shelf

& Pep Boys, etc.

Engine Coolant Temperature & Sender

Testing; "...If you take that single wire that Seabronc is talking about and ground it to the block the guage will imediately go to HOT that will tell you if its the guage or the sender . There is another mounted back farther in the intake and that is for the EEC to determine timing curves and injector pulse time..."

Source: by BLADE262US & Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10973

Sender Location Diagram in a 5.0
Source: by Gacknar (The Mall-Crawler, Jeremy, "Big grey megga beast") at SuperMotors.net

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/265237/original/GT-40%20lower%20intake.JPG

 

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