I just bought an 86 bronco that has been sitting for 10 years. It has turned into a nightmare. The owner died and his wife is just now selling it. It had some wiring issues and he had unplugged several connections under the hood. There are still some connections that I can't find where they plug in. Tailgate window doesn't work, and it won't start. I was told it was running when it was parked. If anyone has any under hood pictures, it might help. I am wide open to ideas, and/or suggestions.
86 bronco been sitting 10 years
- Thread starter tmart44
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
DonLawson84
Member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2015
- Messages
- 43
- Reaction score
- 2
The oem grease in the power window motor gear boxes cake up when sitting, but check dc first. New motor is pretty cheap at rock auto, my truck sat a while and both door motors were locked up. As for the electrical, grab a haynes or Chilton manual at your local parts store, they have decent one lines in the back
Last edited by a moderator:
Seabronc
New member
Welcome to the Zone!
When trouble shooting electrical problems a Ford EVTM (Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual) for the year truck you own is far superior to an Chilton or Haines manual ie. like this one on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-FORD-BRONCO-F150-250-350-ELECTRICAL-VACUUM-TROUBLESHOOTING-MANUAL-EVTM-xlnt-/291578847528?hash=item43e3742128:g:gxsAAOSwN81WDWSn
Also if you can afford them the entire set of service manuals are a wrenchers best friend. Chilton and Haines are only a readers digest version of the real thing. They leave out things that are important that in their opinion can be skipped. ie. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-Ford-Truck-Shop-Repair-Service-Manuals-Econoline-Bronco-F-150-F-250-F-350-/321967956818?hash=item4af6c92352:g:b6EAAOSwX~dWjEn9&vxp=mtr
Don't try to fix everything at once. Start with the starting and running of the engine. Windows are a minor thing to fix. When you post, separate the problems by opening a new topic for each problem, ie. starter won't operate, engine won't run, etc. The EVTM will be your best friend for doing this. So as I indicated, you first need to get the starter to operate even before trying to determine why the engine won't run. Next if the engine won't run you need to determine if the problem is ignition or fuel related and so on. Of course a little preliminary work on a fuel system that has been setting around with gas in it for 10 years will go a long way, ie. flush the tank, blow out the fuel lines, if it is a carb you may want to remove it and soak it in carb cleaner for a day or two and blow it dry using compressed air, (carb cleaner can be purchased form a parts store in 1 gallon cans.
Don't buy parts until you are pretty certain that it is a part you actually need. People are constantly posting about all the parts they have changed and wasted money on but didn't fix their problem. That is called shot gunning and it is only a waste of money.
Good luck,
>-
When trouble shooting electrical problems a Ford EVTM (Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual) for the year truck you own is far superior to an Chilton or Haines manual ie. like this one on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-FORD-BRONCO-F150-250-350-ELECTRICAL-VACUUM-TROUBLESHOOTING-MANUAL-EVTM-xlnt-/291578847528?hash=item43e3742128:g:gxsAAOSwN81WDWSn
Also if you can afford them the entire set of service manuals are a wrenchers best friend. Chilton and Haines are only a readers digest version of the real thing. They leave out things that are important that in their opinion can be skipped. ie. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-Ford-Truck-Shop-Repair-Service-Manuals-Econoline-Bronco-F-150-F-250-F-350-/321967956818?hash=item4af6c92352:g:b6EAAOSwX~dWjEn9&vxp=mtr
Don't try to fix everything at once. Start with the starting and running of the engine. Windows are a minor thing to fix. When you post, separate the problems by opening a new topic for each problem, ie. starter won't operate, engine won't run, etc. The EVTM will be your best friend for doing this. So as I indicated, you first need to get the starter to operate even before trying to determine why the engine won't run. Next if the engine won't run you need to determine if the problem is ignition or fuel related and so on. Of course a little preliminary work on a fuel system that has been setting around with gas in it for 10 years will go a long way, ie. flush the tank, blow out the fuel lines, if it is a carb you may want to remove it and soak it in carb cleaner for a day or two and blow it dry using compressed air, (carb cleaner can be purchased form a parts store in 1 gallon cans.
Don't buy parts until you are pretty certain that it is a part you actually need. People are constantly posting about all the parts they have changed and wasted money on but didn't fix their problem. That is called shot gunning and it is only a waste of money.
Good luck,
>-
Last edited by a moderator:
I already have a chiltons, and it is worthless. No power to rear window and door windows. May be a problem in the fuse box. Supreme Commander; I bought the book on ebay that you suggested. It does turn over and has no spark to the plugs. It is a 302 with EFI.
Last edited by a moderator:
The red connector is the test connector that you use to pull codes from the computer. There should also be a single test connector in the same area. You pull codes using a voltmeter or a test light.
No spark could be related to the ignition module on your distributor. It is hard to get off this truck unless you move the distributor so you can reach the screws, but your distributor is likely stuck. If you can get it off, a parts store can check it.
You have two fuel pumps, a low pressure pump in the tank, and a high pressure pump on the frame rail below the drivers feet, with a fuel filter on the frame rail between the two.
No spark could be related to the ignition module on your distributor. It is hard to get off this truck unless you move the distributor so you can reach the screws, but your distributor is likely stuck. If you can get it off, a parts store can check it.
You have two fuel pumps, a low pressure pump in the tank, and a high pressure pump on the frame rail below the drivers feet, with a fuel filter on the frame rail between the two.
Seabronc
New member
Like I said before, open a new topic in the Tech Support forum for each individual major problem. That way the string doesn't get confusing. Start with getting the engine running and include in the information what type and size of engine it is. You should add as much information about your truck as you know in your signature, ie. year, engine, tire size, any modifications, gear ratio if you know it, etc. that makes it easier on people helping you to make more accurate educated guesses.
Good luck,
>-
